Try contacting DRM, LG Motorsports or Phoenix Racing. :cheers:
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I need the pickup points of control arms related to the ground for my tube frame car.
I am building a tube frame car. I am using corvette C5 driveline components. I need to figure out the exact points in which the upper and lower control arms connect to the chassis in relation to eachother and the ground.
I know it is a longstrech but does anyone know how to get a hold of some build/ design sheets for the C5?
Thanks alot
I know it is a longstrech but does anyone know how to get a hold of some build/ design sheets for the C5?
Thanks alot
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
There is a program used by body shops that define points on the car. These are used for frame aligment and stuff....you might be able get a copy from your local body shop.
Tony #54
Tony #54
Thanks I will give them both a shot.
I could jsut measure a C5 but it is difficult to measure with any ceratin accuracy.
I could jsut measure a C5 but it is difficult to measure with any ceratin accuracy.
You can make your own geometry, which you really should do. All you need is the control arm lengths and offsets and spindle heights (BJ Ctr to BJ Ctr) and kingpin inclination. You will also have to do the steering geometry, for travel, bump steer, and ackerman. Bump steer will also be a rear geometry issue.
Since your weight will be different (presumably a lower and more rearward CG) you will probably need different anti-dive and anti-squat. You may also want to do something more imaginative with the shocks, springs, and bars, which may also entail adjustments to anti-dive and anti-squat (soft spring, high rebound, big bar combos need more anti-dive).
And assuming you are using wider wheels, you will probably want to adjust for kingpin offset. (center of tire vs. kingpin axis interesetion with the tire surface).
The stock geometry could be a starting point. You can get the dimensions by measuring your donor car.
The body shop numbers are frequently off frame reference points in contrast to suspension mounting points.
Since your weight will be different (presumably a lower and more rearward CG) you will probably need different anti-dive and anti-squat. You may also want to do something more imaginative with the shocks, springs, and bars, which may also entail adjustments to anti-dive and anti-squat (soft spring, high rebound, big bar combos need more anti-dive).
And assuming you are using wider wheels, you will probably want to adjust for kingpin offset. (center of tire vs. kingpin axis interesetion with the tire surface).
The stock geometry could be a starting point. You can get the dimensions by measuring your donor car.
The body shop numbers are frequently off frame reference points in contrast to suspension mounting points.
DavidNJ
You are correct in everything you say. I was going to take a little anti-dive out. I also have a suspension software program written by Bill Mitchell. Unfortunetly this project is a huge undertaking and I would like to finish it before I die. My plan is to use stock C5 geometry and make a lot of adjustability in the connecting points so I can adjust as I like.
You are correct in everything you say. I was going to take a little anti-dive out. I also have a suspension software program written by Bill Mitchell. Unfortunetly this project is a huge undertaking and I would like to finish it before I die. My plan is to use stock C5 geometry and make a lot of adjustability in the connecting points so I can adjust as I like.
Yes, I will be doing somekind of custom coil-over setup, and obviously the sway bars will be incorrect (unless by coincidance the stockers are correct).
I was planning on using a manual steering rack and have 1 inch of scrub radius instead of 0 scrub radius. This will increase feel at the steering wheel.
Plan to use 12 rear wheel with 335 tire
10.5 front with 275 tire
Plan to use 12 rear wheel with 335 tire
10.5 front with 275 tire
I know a lot of road racers use the Mitchell program, however I prefer the software from Performance Trends.
In any of them you should be able to calculate enough parameters to get you in the ball park. Being an oval track guy, I just used to a lot of adjustable stuff (in one practice I changed from a 7" to a 10" upper arm to lower the roll center, and anti-dive is just a slug change away) and major stuff (change the front clip after a crash as a two week deal) as routine.
David
In any of them you should be able to calculate enough parameters to get you in the ball park. Being an oval track guy, I just used to a lot of adjustable stuff (in one practice I changed from a 7" to a 10" upper arm to lower the roll center, and anti-dive is just a slug change away) and major stuff (change the front clip after a crash as a two week deal) as routine.
David
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
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