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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just cracked my crank :flaming: on my LS1 and would like some input on what size motor to go with, as well as what parts. ( After market crank,rods,pistons the works.) It was a blower car and will be again. Should I build a Sportsman 348 or go sleeved and get some Cubic inches out of it? :sneaky:
 

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I'm planning on doing an LS2 based stroker motor. Stock LS2 bores with a 4" crank makes 402 cu in!! No expensive sleeving involved!! Actually, doesn't the LS2 come with siamesed bores??!? I think it does.

It's tempting to do a stock disp. motor just cause they're much cheaper, but at least go with an LS2 block and stock stroke and get a little bit more cubes as long as you're in there. My $0.02.
 

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How did you break the crank?

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
mdhmi said:
How did you break the crank?

Mark
I had a aftermarket pulley installed on the crank and the shop that did the install put a grade 8 bolt in instead of the stock stretching bolt. The grade 8 can't stretch so it backed out on me and the crank cracked at the cone from all the stress. The car died out at a stop light and i managed to get to a gas station about 20 feet from the light. I lifted the car with a jack and the crank bolt fell into my hands. I checked in front of the main seal and sure enough the crank is tilted up and cocked to the driverside.
 

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I'm not a big fan of sleeved motors. I've seen too many drop the sleeves and cause too many headaches. I think I'd go stroker but not sleeved.

Either way, have fun. ;)
 

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LS2/LS1 402,408 because of cost of going higher, Wet Sleeve only, Cometic SPECIFIC DARTON gasket only. Limit boost to 12 or less.


The extra 80 pounds feet torque down low is worth every penny. 16% more cid is nice
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
EDONIS001 said:
so whats the shop sayin? id go with the most cubes i can afford....
I called the owner of the shop who did the boost and pully upgrade. The only problem is the work was done a little over a year ago. He told me when he did the upgrade that the motor was at it's breaking point and it could go anytime. Since it took a little over a year to break or the bolt to come loose that he couldnt do anything about it, since he had already warned me about it not lasting long. I am not upset with him, I and the owner were actually amazed that the motor stayed together as long as it did( 8,000 miles) at 10lbs of consistant boost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Grim Reaper said:
LS2/LS1 402,408 because of cost of going higher, Wet Sleeve only, Cometic SPECIFIC DARTON gasket only. Limit boost to 12 or less.


The extra 80 pounds feet torque down low is worth every penny. 16% more cid is nice
I spoke with Andy over at A&A and talked to him about his 414 cube short block. He is a really nice fellow and didnt mind all my questions. I think I'm going to end up with his short block. Looks like Im going to be busy over the winter.
You wouldnt reccomend going over 12lbs with a stroker? Wouldnt I be safe since the everything will be forged? Im going to use a Callaway crank, eagle rods, JE pistons, and 6 liter heads that are fully ported and polished.
I would like all the input you guys can give so I do this right.
Thanks for all your help so far. :usa:
 

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You can boost considerably with a forged motor as long as the fuel is there....

If you were to build a 414c.i. motor at 8:1 Compression, it would run on pump gas at 15psi....and make a boat load of power.....

I made 660rwp on 100 octane with 15psi with a really good fuel setup on my old car, I could of gotten away w/using 93, but didn't risk it, this was on a 370c.i. motor through a TH400 dynoed on slicks....etc, etc, etc.....

So these "stroker" LS2's that are being built that are 402's are aluminum blocks with 4" cranks? I've been out of the game for a while and haven't been reading up.....
 

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blown 346 said:
I spoke with Andy over at A&A and talked to him about his 414 cube short block. He is a really nice fellow and didnt mind all my questions. I think I'm going to end up with his short block. Looks like Im going to be busy over the winter.
You wouldnt reccomend going over 12lbs with a stroker? Wouldnt I be safe since the everything will be forged? Im going to use a Callaway crank, eagle rods, JE pistons, and 6 liter heads that are fully ported and polished.
I would like all the input you guys can give so I do this right.
Thanks for all your help so far. :usa:
I sent you a pm with my cell.

I would stay over 10 to 1 with small amount of boost 8-10 lbs.
This is all you will need. About 675-725 rwhp. This motor would have a Huge perfect torque line. Once you start going over that, you are going to run into numerous signicant issues that can only only be mitigated by much more $$$$. The next question you will ask yourself, do want to go 5k miles before a rebuild or 25k.

I could build an LS motor that would do 1,600 hp with a prochager. It would only have one use, to go down the 1/4 mile. Seven seconds of use, before a break down is not what you have in mind.
 

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BBaxR6 said:
I'm planning on doing an LS2 based stroker motor. Stock LS2 bores with a 4" crank makes 402 cu in!! No expensive sleeving involved!! Actually, doesn't the LS2 come with siamesed bores??!? I think it does.

It's tempting to do a stock disp. motor just cause they're much cheaper, but at least go with an LS2 block and stock stroke and get a little bit more cubes as long as you're in there. My $0.02.
I'm just finishing my LS2 motor. Totally built all forged motor with 4" bore and stroke, AFR 225cc heads, 402 CID, for $11k. That is an awesome price for an awesome motor. Go with the AFR 10.1 compression heads, slap on a blower of some sort, you'll get crazy horsepower at a great price.
 
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