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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm pretty sure I have the LG spindle brackets destined for the proper locations and orientation, but I wanted to check. If I have things correct there appears to be a bit of force-fitting necessary.

The pictures are of the left steering knuckle, and of course you are seeing what is the back side. Do I have the proper bracket on this? It seems like the only way it would fit. This arrangement would bring the air duct in from the top and from the front of the knuckle/hub assembly. Correct?

The red indicates an area where the duct connector on the LG bracket comes into contact with the steering knuckle casting.

Should I simply dimple the LG bracket enough so it fits into place?





Thanks for the help! :guiness:
 

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What is the benefit of these spindle brackets?

Is this a whole new spindle or just a bracket to hold the brake duct?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Olitho said:
What is the benefit of these spindle brackets?

Is this a whole new spindle or just a bracket to hold the brake duct?
It's just a bracket that is "sandwiched" between the steering knuckle and spindle hub.

I bought a DRM front brake duct extension kit - it extends the hard plastic factory ducts so that you can get the airflow around the back side of the wheel. The DRM kits also have flex-duct to get the air flow all the way to the spindle. The LG spindle brackets accept the flex-duct and get the air directed to the center of the rotor, where the air can cool both sides.

I go to road courses for DE's and open lapping time. Since I go out like I'm chasin' snakes most of the time I want the best brake cooling I can get up front. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Olitho said:
I chase snakes, too. :p :p :p

How much for those brackets?
They can be yours for the low, low price of only $179.95! But wait, there's more!!! You also get, at no additional charge, the opportunity to install them without instructions, AND as an added bonus, you get to modify them so they actually fit!!!! :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I think I answered my own question regarding making it fit.

I put the three bolts back on and torqued them to 130 ft-lbs like the shop manual calls for - that pretty much squished the LG bracket where it needed to! :idea:
 

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Let me know how they work for you Dave. I assume that you drove the car with the DRM duct extentions. I have been debating making a set of these from scratch as $180 is alot of cheese for what they are.

I will see you @ Mid-Ohio next week.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Jaymz said:
Let me know how they work for you Dave. I assume that you drove the car with the DRM duct extentions. I have been debating making a set of these from scratch as $180 is alot of cheese for what they are.

I will see you @ Mid-Ohio next week.
Hey James. No, I am installing both the DRM ducts and the LG brackets for the first time.

I think the left side is on. I hope I did it right! :lol:

 

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Looks like you read the GM service manual...you don't need to take the whole knuckle off the car. Just separate the lower ball joint so you can get to the wheel bearing bolt hiding behind the ball.

Anyway, it looks like you got it right. After it is on the car, with the rotor and brakes installed, you will have to bend it a bit to get the closest rotor fit you are comfortable with.

Check the wheel clearances at full lock. I found that the DRM ducts need to be as low as possible (and jammed into he shock mounts) to get lock to lock without rubbing the duct extensions. I believe GM does a horrible job placing the shock mounts (at least on my car) as they are on weird and different angles on both sides.

You will also hate the hose fit. The DRM hose is much larger than the LG spindle duct fitting. I just wrapped my spindle duct with friction tape until the fit was close. Others have obtained smaller hose that fits the LG spindle ducts and slips inside the DRM duct extension. I will do this after the DRM hose starts to wear.

They do work. What are you doing for brakes now that you have all that cooling?

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #11
kmagvette said:
Check the wheel clearances at full lock. I found that the DRM ducts need to be as low as possible (and jammed into he shock mounts) to get lock to lock without rubbing the duct extensions. I believe GM does a horrible job placing the shock mounts (at least on my car) as they are on weird and different angles on both sides.

You will also hate the hose fit. The DRM hose is much larger than the LG spindle duct fitting. I just wrapped my spindle duct with friction tape until the fit was close. Others have obtained smaller hose that fits the LG spindle ducts and slips inside the DRM duct extension. I will do this after the DRM hose starts to wear.

They do work. What are you doing for brakes now that you have all that cooling?

Good luck
Thanks for the input! I am to the point where I am going to be securing the DRM ducts in place and I will follow your lead there.

The only other brake related projects have been Motul fluid, speed bleeders, SS lines (w/ AN fittings) and Carbotech XP10/XP9 pads.

Thanks again. :coo:
 

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Thanks for the post and pics ... and comment!
I'm ISO experience such as yours ...
http://www.z06vette.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81043

You are leaving the point that I have not yet approached ... because of reservations about experience such as yours.
I assume that neither IndyDave nor respondents took a hard look at the Phoenix spindle duct mounts and eliminated them from consideration?
From the pics of the DRM ducts it appears that one really does have to surgically attach them to the cut stock inlet ducts ... any advice there?
I don't see the DRM ducts fixed to the inner fender ... but I assume there is something that attaches to the fender?
:ity:
 

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Indy,
I just went through the same enjoyable experience. If you don't have patience before you start, you will, hopefully, have it when you're done with this project. I, too, used the smaller size hose to fit inside the hose provided with the DRM ducts. Dmtnt has a post on this somewhere, I believe.

Denny,
Fitting to the oem ducts is the easiest part of this operation. I just sliced a one inch cut on either side of the inlet of the DRM duct where it meets the oem ducts and popped a rivet or two to hold them together, along with some duct tape to seal them up. The DRM duct is attached to the inner fender with a self-tapping screw that comes with the kit. Can't see it at the angle of Indy's pic, if it's in there already.
I have to say, as I was doing this project on one side, it made the other side that much easier. :mah:
Oh yeah, I also cobbled together a neat fix for the abs sensor mount using the original bracket/fastener. I cut away the vast majority of the original bracket leaving the fastener and one bolt hole. I then trimmed that down to fit in and bolt to the forward bolt that holds the spindle/duct assembly together. It fit nice and uses the original clip to hold the sensor connector in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey Denny. Hey Flipper.

My last pic shows the DRM duct hanging loose. No self-tapper used yet.

kmagvette had some good input on where they go to avoid wheel rub.

I am a bit perplexed regarding fixing the DRM ducts in place without the car on the groud so that the suspension is fully compressed. Once the car is on the ground, there is no way I can get under it - it seems like a catch-22 scenario.

I guess I'll fix them as low as possible and see how it goes!

Flipper, what was your experience on where the DRM ducts should be nailed down?
 

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I used the Phoenix brake duct spindle as attaching it was just a simple tap of a pre-existing hole.

As for the mating up of the duct hosing between the DRM units and the duct spindle, well, that was no walk in the park. I ended up securing them all with the stainless loops provided, tap screws, and a healthy dose of Minnesota scotch tape! :lol:
 

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Indy,
Here are some pics:

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Also, I dealt with the same issue on load on the car. You really can't tell how the ducts and hose will line up until you put the tires and wheels on and look through the wheel spokes to see alignment. Once it's on the ground, you can see just fine through the wheel.
 

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What are the outside diameters of the 2 pieces; ie what is the diameter of the LG spindle pipes and also the DRM ducts?

Thanks,

George
 

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One other thought on connecting the DRM ducts to the OEM ducts. My install was a major PITA. The OEM ducts would not fit into the DRM ducts without folding over. Even then I had difficulty fitting them such that I could get adequate pressure, at a reasonable angle, to keep the air inlets at the front of the car looking right.

I finally decided to cut almost all of the DRM sleeve off the duct. I did so at an angle to relieve up or down force on the OEM ducts. Then I simply used a 4" flexible coupler (available in the plumbing section at Home Depot) to join the two together. It also made it so much easier to join the two sections. I fastened the DRM duct in place, then slid the flex coupler in place on the OEM duct, inserted it into the front of the car, butted the two ducts together and slid the flex coupler in place. I used the light weight one that only has one SS hose clamp on each end.

With respect to fixing the DRM ducts to the car. Put the front wheels on and lower the car onto ramps or blocks. I found that the optimal placement for the ducts was jammed against the shock mount shroud and lowered to about 3/4 inch above the boot on the tie rod. Be sure to inspect each side with the wheel turned all the way in and out while the suspension is loaded. I learned this the hard way and have extra holes in the frame to prove it :)

In my quest for overkill... I pitched those sheet metal screws and used a short 1/4" fine thread screw with a wide shoulder and large washer. Tap the hole and used red lock tite. HINT: Drill the big holes after you are sure where you want them :idea:
 
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