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Discussion Starter #1
I posted this in Pit Road and got nothing :-?

I would like to run 17"s all around, primarily for track use, primarily so I have more and cheaper rubber options. From what I hear going to 18" requires bigger brakes and more expensive rubber.

I really don't want to part with 3K plus in the process. I see that the the General sells 17 GS Corvette wheels that will work, they are about $375 each. GM part numbers 9592480 (11" rear) and 9592379 (9.5" front). Does anyone have experience with these?

Any other recommendations in that price range ($1,600)?
 

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Kmag,

T1 Vettes are required to run 17" wheels. Most of us use CCWs or Kodiak. I have 2 sets of both.

I know that several of my T1 brethren sells wheels at the end of the season, usually in the $1,200-$1,400 range.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
David,

What width do you T1 guys run, front and back? I can be patient, my street tires will make it through this year. Are these wheels typically in decent shape - structurally, I'm not super concerned about cosmetics?
 

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17 X 10" front; 17 X 11" rear.

I sold two sets of CCWs earlier this year. The wheels were bought new in 2003 and were in pretty good shape, just needed polishing to look almost new.

Log on to sccaforums.com and keep an eye of things.
 

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I have the black 17" GM GS wheels on mine. They work fine. 17" race rubber is cheaper and used tires are readily available.
 

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The GM wheels are a good, cheap alternative - and actually fairly light.

I now run the Kodiaks, but the CCWs are certainly up there too. If you want the lightest wheels you can get, then you need to upgrade to the Kodiaks. Each wheel will run you about $500 ea new. You can usually pick up the used ones toward the end of the year for around 1200-1500 as Dave said.

You don't HAVE to run 17s in T1, but I think it is the best set up. And, just because you got 18s all around doesn't mean you HAVE to upgrade your brakes. You can, but you don't have to. And yes, generally speaking the rubber on 18" wheels will cost you more and probably limit your choices.

The good thing about running 17s is that you can buy used racing tires cheap because all of us T1 guys run 17s - hint, hint. [:D]
 

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kmagvette said:
I posted this in Pit Road and got nothing :-?

I would like to run 17"s all around, primarily for track use, primarily so I have more and cheaper rubber options. From what I hear going to 18" requires bigger brakes and more expensive rubber.

I really don't want to part with 3K plus in the process. I see that the the General sells 17 GS Corvette wheels that will work, they are about $375 each. GM part numbers 9592480 (11" rear) and 9592379 (9.5" front). Does anyone have experience with these?

Any other recommendations in that price range ($1,600)?
Sent you a PM
 

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As I recall, they are around 18-21 lbs. My Kodiaks are 16.5-18 lbs. It's not much, but at this level, everything counts!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What model CCWs or Kodiaks do the T1 guys run? Sounds like the "previously enjoyed" wheels are the way to go.

wtknght1: I would be happy to give "trained" racing tires a shot. Perhaps they will show me a better line around the track :D
 

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CCW "track classics," which is not the correct name, but when I call CCW, John or Chip know who I am and what I want.

Kodiak makes a nice wheel, too. I use the RT and the FX models (one of each).

Tire? For DE use, any of the major brands (Goodyear/Hoosier/Kumho) will work great for you. I have sold all of my old Kumhos and now am running Hoosiers. Bruce Foss @ Hoosier has treated me great, now it is my turn to return the favor and do good by them.
 

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kmagvette said:
wtknght1: I would be happy to give "trained" racing tires a shot. Perhaps they will show me a better line around the track :D
The tires may help with the line ;) but I know my videos will help you! :D

Just about any model of the Kodiaks are awesome. I have the 10-spoke design basically just because I think they breathe a bit better and are much easier to clean.
 

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Running 18" wheels doesn't demand that you run larger brakes, it only means that you can. 17" wheels WILL limit and negate a larger brake selection and reduce cooling

If you intend to run SCCA T1 then you can either run the OEM wheel sizes or 17" on all 4 corners with 315/35x17. The problem with the SCCA T1 17" set up is that the SCCA uses it as a LIMITING specification. They limit the front widths to 17x10 which is NOT optimal for the 315 tire; thus limiting it's effectiveness. If you are NOT running SCCA T1 then there are better selections for the track.

Actually race tire size selection is about the same for 17" & 18". Hoosier has a full line available in both 18" & 17" and both true race rubber and DOT's. Kuhmo's are somwhat limited as are Goodyears in 18". Remember the C5R's & C6R's use 18" all round.

I do not recommend using used tires as
- the obviously have less life left
- they also more than likely have less grip due to the number of heat cycles experienced ( a tire losses grip with each heat cycle and only gets worse)
- tires lose grip with age regardless of heat cyles so older used tires lose additional grip by virtue of their age.

The ONLY time a used tire purchase is valid is for a new driver to learn on slicks for the very first time. Experienced racers save their used tires to practice and test on. Otherwise new race tires shou;d only be purchased. I, in all good conscience will not sell a used race tire. I either use them for practice, give them away or use them as "packing material" to ship race wheels.

Used race wheels can be a good purchase if they are not bent or damaged.

Kodiaks are a nice light race wheel that are cost effective, as are the CCW's. However they are not the lightest wheel available as was stated. Jongbloeds have a Magnesium center and heat treated barrels as do BBS. DyMag, Speedline and others have very lite cast and forged aa magnesium wheels. Of course all these are expensive to very expensive although the Jongbloeds can be had at a reasonable price.

For the C5Z06 I recommend:
305/30x18 on 10.5x18" with a +0.25" offset FRONT
315/35x17 on 11x17" with a +0.25" offset REAR

For the C6Z06 I recommend:
305/30x18 on 10.5x18" with +0.25" offset FRONT
335/30x18 on 12x18" with +0.25" offset REAR
(19" race rubber not available yet)
 

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Kmag sounds like he is not racing but doing some DE events. Therefore the latest and greatest wheels and new tires may not be necessary.
How would the wagon wheels work on his car? I think these are 17" front and 18" rear. They are very cheap and available.
Dave
 

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How would the wagon wheels work on his car? I think these are 17" front and 18" rear. They are very cheap and available.
Dave, I would stay away from factory cast wheels. Even in DEs the loads on the wheels are substantial. Better idea is to find a good used set of race wheels.

I agree about tire choice for DEs. No use buying brand new rubber for lapping days. Heck, some T1 guys race real competitively on rubber with more than 3 heat cycles.

Oh, and Dave: Go Buckeyes!
 

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Yeah, for those on a budget, used tires are great! I ran from 1995 to 2000 on virtually all used tires...anything I could get for more seat time. I never had any issues with any of them. You can pick up tires with fewer than 4 heat cycles all day long at the National events - cheap!
 

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I bought a set of used Kumhos with one heat cycle for substantially less money than new. A great value & I'm competitive on them.

I have factory cast wheels off a 96 GS, but I bought them new and know the history. The problem with some used wheels is "a little curb rash". Did the wheels just scrub the curb while parking or was it a bit of curb jumping?
 

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Chris, or anyone,
What is your opinion of the wagon wheels?
I have been doing DE events for 20 years with corvettes on stock wheels and race tires without a failure.
Dave
 

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kmagvette said:
While your at it...What are the "Wagon Wheels"?

Wagon wheels are the thick spoke stock wheels made for the 1997 to 1999 corvette. I think it was 2000 they went to the thinner spoke wheels.
 
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