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I've done a lot of research on both forums, and I'm still a bit confused... Wonderin if you guys could give me your sage advice.. My Z definitely needs to be lowered.



I want to get the car .5-1 inches lower, without the front being higher than the back.. (I've read one tragic post about that - OUCH!!!)

In the front, I tighten the bolt until there's nothing showing between the bushing and the bolt..

In the rear, I probably shouldn't cut the bushing (would make it too low??), and just tighten till I see two threads showing on the top of the bolt..

Once that's done, immediately drive it - slowly - to an alignment shop to have them zero out the toe and, in my case, increase negative camber on the front wheels to about 2 degrees and the back at around 1.. (Autocrossing next weekend, want this set up ok)

Does this sound about right??? When I do this, I'll take MANY pictures - since I haven't seen any step-by-step pics of this procedure yet..

Thanks!





_________________
dimer0
2001 Torch Red Z06 [ anti-cagged | zaino | passport 8500 ]
2001 Black Audi S4 [ bone stock | zaino ]
 

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I would wait before the alignment. Driving is what it needs to settle down. Bumps will flex everything to the max and accelerate settling. I didn't get mine aligned for a few months and showed no tire wear prior to the alignment.

George
 

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I can't believe you guys lower these cars. My 98 vette will drag on a Horse turd as it is. Not to mention trying to pull out of driveways that have even remotely steep inclines. I'll stick with the supposed 4x4 look.
 

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OMG! I can see the turds flying up onto the windshield, those darned lowered front ends! **SPLAT** I lowered mine as stated above, have 500 miles with 4 autocrosses, and no apparent street driing problems, ie: alignment. I wil bring it in later on tho especially if I see any wearing. I love my SILVERADO for that 4X4 look too!
 

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On a Z06, to lower either the front or rear, you must cut off part of the "pad" on the end of the adjusting bolts. The most difficult for me was the front, as I had to loosen the upper A-arms and lower shock mounts to get the adjusting bolt out. On the front, I cut off the first section of the pad.

There is a link to a good set of lowering instructions on the C5 Registry FAQ page. On my car, lowering about 1" caused the front to gain about .5-.7 degree negative camber, so that had to be taken out of each side. Reducing the camber caused the toe-in to increase, so I had to adjust that too. But it lowers the center of mass of your car about 1", and that improves the handling a lot.
 

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Mallett has the best lower kit and advice. Call Chuck today. Fronts like a lot of neg. camber (-1.0 to -2.0), some run neutral toe to(1/16 to 1/8) toe out on the front. Rears at -0.7 to -1.0 camber and 1/4 to 1/2 toe in.
 

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Just did my 2002 Z.(second day of ownership)
Did CAGS while I was under there.
Could not get the rear as low as the front so I bought longer bolts for the rear. Get them from a good fastener dealer. No need to cut the rear bushings. The front only dropped 3/4 inch by turning the bolts.
Rear now matches the front.
If I decide to cut the front bushings then all I have to do is lower the rear to match.
My Z really had a huge gap in the fenderwell.
Better now but not perfect.
 

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One thing I forgot to comment on -- what is this "drive it for a month before you do the alignment" stuff? The car doesn't take a month to settle to its new height. In fact, it doesn't even take hours. One trip around the block and it is where it will be forever (unless the bolts loosen and turn). If you don't have alignment tools, the trip to the alignment shop is all you need to "settle" the suspension. In fact, when I was racing, we bounced the car in place to settle it, rolled it back and forward one foot, and then measured the alignment. What's going on here?
 
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I think your pretty much right..I lowered the car and it did drop another 1/4 of an inch the second day.

I followed the zo6 suggested lowering height with the help of many forum members...

Thanks for your help guys..as it sits the car is perfect for me..1/2 inch lower than stock height..

Not a problem on driveways..etc..and yet takes the edge off the 4 x4 look and I do notice a nicer balance on handling..

I could probably do the alignment any time now..but I'' wait the month or so when I have time..

As it sits..I bet it doesn't even need one but what the heck...MY car at least deserves the ZO6 specs /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_wink.gif
 

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I'm down 1 1/2 inches front and rear. Looks bitchen and no problems in 7,500 miles. Cut bushings in front, and longer bolt kit in rear(bolts from the Breathless people in Georgia re: Vortex Rammer).

Work done by Andy Green of A&A Engines-a Vendor on this site.....

I would recommend A&A Frame Savers and their Rocker Rails for added protection. Also, you should always enter driveways and speed bumps at close to a 45 degree angle one wheel at a time, and don't attempt real steep ones. At first it was a hassle, but it's like anything else, it becomes automatic after a while.

I had the alignment done the same day after an hour drive, and it did need to be adjusted.

Stock, I could easily slip 4 fingers between the tires and the wheel well.....now it's tight with 2 fingers.

On my trip back from the ALM/Transam races 3 weeks ago, I had an opportunity to open her up.....at 150mph car was incredibily stable with the low center of gravity and front spoiler 3" off the ground.

At a 1 1/2 inch drop I have no problems and it looks kewl /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif

01ZEE06
Barry
 
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