[DJWorm]

See the following pics:

External Oil Tank:
http://gm.wieck.com/forms/gm/previewpage?024314

Internal Oil Tank:
http://gm.wieck.com/forms/gm/previewpage?024313

Oil Pan Right Side:
http://gm.wieck.com/forms/gm/previewpage?024310

Oil Pan Left Side:
http://gm.wieck.com/forms/gm/previewpage?024308

Oil Pump External:
http://gm.wieck.com/forms/gm/previewpage?024307

Oil Pump Internal:
http://gm.wieck.com/forms/gm/previewpage?024311

Complete System: (less Engine Oil Cooler)
http://gm.wieck.com/forms/gm/previewpage?024295

The system is driven by single, but instead; 2 stage, Gerotor pump off the front crankshaft snout as in the LS1/LS2/LS6. This is accomplished with 2 seperate internal channels which are evident on the pump face plates. You can see the keyed drives on the External Pump shot and can see both internal gerotor mechanisms in the Internal View which are regulated by a single pressure spring. Notice how the single large oval sump inlet is on the left side (driver side) of the pump and the reservoir inlet/outlet is on the right side (pass. side).

Notice that the reservoir inlet and outlet bosses are both at the bottom (bottom right side of pan and bottom of reservoir). The inlet is not at the top and entering on the side of the reservoir as most dry sump tanks to swirl and deair the oil. But you can see the inlet pipe rises to the top center of the tank internally and "spills" the oil at the top center. You can also see deairing baffles and seperators in the tank lid. The cylinder volume of oil fluid will feed the tank outlet and gravity/pressure feed to the pump inlet boss.

I am assuming that the pump outlet that feeds to the pan outlet will feed the engine oil cooler and then back to the reservoir inlet. I am also assuming that the internal pump outlet will feed to the oil filter and then the engine priority main gallery. Notice that the Filter boss is in the same position as previous LS Gen IV engines.

 

[Millenium Z06]

Cool, but only the first 2 work. Dosent look like it would easily fit a C5.

 

[IT L GO]

There are all working now. Very :coo:

 

[warhawkmcdaniel]

Ok, so how do we change the oil?

There is a drain plug in the oil pan but I was thinking there would be another drain somewhere.

 

[DJWorm]

There is a drain plug each in the bottom of the oil pan and oil reservoir, There might also be a petcock placed inline at the reservoir inlet/outlet.

Obviously the dip stick will measure the fluid volume in the reservoir to reflect/represent the system fluid volume.

 

[warhawkmcdaniel]

I don't see a drain plug anywhere on the bottom of the oil tank. I think there must be a petcock drain inline somewhere other than the oil tank in addition to the drain plug in the oil pan.

Or maybe we just suck it out of the oil tank. )

 

[Zippy]

The model engine at the Detroit auto show had two oil drain plugs, one on the side, and another on the bottom. I'll try to find a pic to post here.....be right back.

Here is the only pic I could find, unfortunately it doesn't show the drain plugs I noticed.

 

[janoz06]

Thanks for the pictures :thumb:

 

[DJWorm]

If you look at the second picture "Internal Oil Reservoir", at the bottom portion of the tank on the left side. Between the Riser Tube and the bracket on the bottom there is a shiney half moon or "D" in the center....that's the drain plug.

The pan drain on the driver's side is visable in both of the above pictures. I can not discern one on the bottom of the pan. That doesn't mean one isn't there, just that we can't see one in these pics.

 

[Zippy]

DJ:

Excellent pics of the new system! Thanks for sharing with us.

Zipster :z: :z:

 

[Zippy]

This pic is from the C5R, taken at Mid-Ohio ALMS race last summer. I've heard GM uses the technology/experience from the race team to help develop production Vettes.

 

[warhawkmcdaniel]

If you look at the second picture "Internal Oil Reservoir", at the bottom portion of the tank on the left side. Between the Riser Tube and the bracket on the bottom there is a shiney half moon or "D" in the center....that's the drain plug.

The pan drain on the driver's side is visable in both of the above pictures. I can not discern one on the bottom of the pan. That doesn't mean one isn't there, just that we can't see one in these pics.

Ref:image X06PT_EP020.jpg

I don't intend to work this thing to death (we should all have problems how to change the oil in our new Z06) but when I look at the object you describe as a "shiney half moon or "D" in the center" in high magnification it doesn't look like a threaded plug to me.

All I know is there has to be another drain in addition to the pan.

 

[tonto]

Ah the LS7 is a ultimate derivative of this tired design which has been engineered to its final,(hopefully) stage.
As a money down buyer of the new Z, await the next generation Z engine, which certainly will be a new fresh design, as overhead cams seems to be a lost art in the Y-body think tank.

 

[DavidNJ]

The pan doesn't look like any dry sump pan I've seen. More like a rework of a wet sump pan. Note the C5R pan.

Typically there is a screen with a kickout. The oil is scavenged from the kickout. Here, the oil seems to drop to the bottom and be picked up like wet sump.

Having the pipes in the tank and pan are not a big deal. Many tanks have an integrated oil filter for the incoming oil. And my pan has tubes that route the oil from the kickout on the right side to an exit on the left side, where the pump is.

By the way, how do you run a remote filter?

Overall, a little disappointing.

David

P.S.
On the other hand, the crank pictures show profiled throws, and gundrilled rod and main journals...cool.

 

[DJWorm]

The pan will still have the crank scrapper and upper baffle as the wet sump does, which aren't shown.

The pump while although technically a 2 stage is not the typical staged pump with seperate circuit stages. This is a matrix body with fluidic channels.

You can remote the filter by adding either
- a Moroso or Canton filter adapter plate with inlet/outlet bosses to the filter boss or
- running a filter block off plate at the filter boss and running a World Products adapter with inlet/outlet bosses at the oil temp/pressure sensor boss
AND running seperate lines to a remote filter adapter.

I might also consider running a seperate filter pre cooler.

Some other things I might consider when tracking the car are:
- Porting & polishing & blueprinting the pump.
- Increasing the pressure relief spring
- Installing a larger ouput pump
- Installing a larger Peterson reservoir
- Installing Aeroquip Braided SS Lines

 

[tonto]

The pan will still have the crank scrapper and upper baffle as the wet sump does, which aren't shown.

The pump while although technically a 2 stage is not the typical staged pump with seperate circuit stages. This is a matrix body with fluidic channels.

You can remote the filter by adding either
- a Moroso or Canton filter adapter plate with inlet/outlet bosses to the filter boss or
- running a filter block off plate at the filter boss and running a World Products adapter with inlet/outlet bosses at the oil temp/pressure sensor boss
AND running seperate lines to a remote filter adapter.

I might also consider running a seperate filter pre cooler.

Some other things I might consider when tracking the car are:
- Porting & polishing & blueprinting the pump.
- Increasing the pressure relief spring
- Installing a larger ouput pump
- Installing a larger Peterson reservoir
- Installing Aeroquip Braided SS Lines

even John Deere realized a new engine was the future, as Harley Davidson is time frozen, lets hope Corvette NOT, as rumor has it over head cams are pop now. Hey just a rumor.

 

[wlxx861]

Oil change

After an oil change will the system have to be primed?

Chas.

 

[DJWorm]

I don't think so.

Once the Reservoir is refilled the fluid coulmn pressure or gravity feeds the pump. Nothing is supposed to stay in the pan. So when the crank is turned the oil is immediately fed to the prioriity main oil gallery.

 

[GOLD72]

If you look at the second picture "Internal Oil Reservoir", at the bottom portion of the tank on the left side. Between the Riser Tube and the bracket on the bottom there is a shiney half moon or "D" in the center....that's the drain plug.

The pan drain on the driver's side is visable in both of the above pictures. I can not discern one on the bottom of the pan. That doesn't mean one isn't there, just that we can't see one in these pics.

After looking at this on high magnification, I am convinced that this is an oil temperature sensing transmitter. The outside black thing is the usual GM electrical connector. On High Mag, you can see two electrical prongs inside. Viewing the inside of the tank, the shiny cylindrical probe is the transmitter thermowell. Nonetheless, you can probably drain the reservoir by disconnecting the wiring harness and draining by removing the transmitter. Could be a big potential to make an oily mess during draining. I hope there is another place for draining.

GOLD72

 

[DJWorm]

The Oil Pressure Probe and Oil Temperature Thermistor are in the same position they are on the LS6, on the block above the Oil Filter Boss.

There may be a Low Oil probe in the Reservoir tank.

What you see in the inside bottom of the tank is:
- an outlet baffle to prevent vortexing,
- underneath which is the drian plug,
- the riser tube and
- a small internal probe that enters from the side and matches to the small black fittting on the bottom side of the tank. However I can not determine what this fitting is for. One possible use would be a tank heating element, as is common on some other dry sump systems.

Note that almost every other dry sump system has a drain in the bottom of the tank, otherwise you must dissasemble and clean the tank with each oil change. I don't think that is going to happen in a production car.