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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My procharged Z went on the dyno....blower guys come analyze!!!!

Mods are Andys forged shortblock, stock heads, stock cam, long tubes with cats, stock exhaust. D1SC blower, ATI twin intercooler setup, but with Andy's upgraded bracket.

Car hit 12lbs of boost at redline, btw.





Seems like the Ati intercoolers arnt cutting it, what do you think? Ambient temps were 95 degrees, intake temps around 150.

My tuner recommended switching to a bigger pulley, would reduce heat and allow him to run more timing, actually making more power with a little less boost. Alternatively, the single intercooler would probably be more efficient.

Comments? Notice it kinda lay down past 5k rpms. It kept pulling timing, probably runs much better on the street where there is more air-flow.

This was done on a dynapack, btw.

The green line shows the after-results, notice how much torque we picked up under the curve. Car is definitely more flexible, pulls great!

Oz
 

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Lol, saw this post on CSI. Yep, ATI twin intercoolers are teh suck. Call Andy and get his front mount STAT! Your car got a cam?? Cause, IT SHOULD! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Lmao, youre on there too!!! I love that forum.

Cam is stock, reading>Yuo? :D

And yeah, i think the front mount is good idea.
 

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Swap the stock cam out for a nice blower cam...should see some nice results. :cheers:
 

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At your power level, you might consider a F.A.S.T. intake manifold as well. I installed mine when my only mod was headers, and it didn't make much difference, but, once you add 10psi of boost, that manifold starts making a lot of sense. I suspect that just the 78mm swapped onto your car would get you at least 20whp (and one hell of a lot easier than a cam install). I'm prolly gonna try to swap to an LS2 throttle body before too long, see if I get any gains from that at my power level or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, for now Im going to add dual springs (suspecting valve float past 5k), change the plugs and wires, and re-do it, see what it does. After that, i will look into the fmic.
 

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Pakisho said:
Well, for now Im going to add dual springs (suspecting valve float past 5k), change the plugs and wires, and re-do it, see what it does. After that, i will look into the fmic.
Many cars make 550+ with stock springs. I'd spend the money some place else. ECS has a nice alky set up that is a proven +++.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nice, Tom, thanks!

I will be addressing the intake temps right after I do the valvesprings.
 

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KCMAGS said:
Many cars make 550+ with stock springs. I'd spend the money some place else. ECS has a nice alky set up that is a proven +++.
But I bet not boosted cars. Blown cars have extra pressure trying to force the valve open (on the intake at least), so stiffer springs sound like quite a reasonable idea.
 

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Those numbers seem Very Weak. This is a Forged Bottom ened car isn't it? At 12lbs of boost It should be well over 600RWHP. I was making More power than that on a stock bottom ended Car with only 8lbs of boost. The heat is definately a Big issue. I think all of the above mentioned mods are a good idea. Get a front mount Single IC, A nice blower Cam (and springs obviously) and An Alky kit to bring down the IAT, and pull more timing. Good luck.
 

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ForceFedZ06 said:
Those numbers seem Very Weak. This is a Forged Bottom ened car isn't it? At 12lbs of boost It should be well over 600RWHP. I was making More power than that on a stock bottom ended Car with only 8lbs of boost. The heat is definately a Big issue. I think all of the above mentioned mods are a good idea. Get a front mount Single IC, A nice blower Cam (and springs obviously) and An Alky kit to bring down the IAT, and pull more timing. Good luck.
I fully agree, I tuned other similar cars on less boost that made well over 600+. ITs just a matter of heat, and until it gets controlled, you cant make power.

Rick
 

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FRC Tom said:
I also layed the rad. back so the S/C gets cooler air.
Tom,

Just noticed you have screened cutout holes in the fenderwell. Pros & Cons of that mod? Better cooling? More tire debris? First time I've seen that on one of the Z's...

Scott
 

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Did the guys operating the dyno have their large fans turned on higher moving air over your intercoolers as well as the radiator?
 

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Man 'O War said:
Did the guys operating the dyno have their large fans turned on higher moving air over your intercoolers as well as the radiator?

Yes, the fans where right on both intercoolers and the radiator temps stayed very consistant.

Rick
 

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One time I drove (seemed like forever) to where I was going to dyno tune the car (South FL, DiabloSport,... Predator guys) and I tanked up down there so I'd have a full tank on the rollers. Mine kept pulling timing and we thought it was because I'd gotten some not-so-good gas down there. That's the only thing I can think of.
 

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The numbersare off quite a bit in my opinion....I am not forged stock with ATI [see sig] and putting out 535 rwhp...I also am going for a forged bottom end, will be looking for about 650 at the wheels...Let us know how you do with this :cheers:
 

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On I can say is just keep that A/F ratio in the 11s with running that kind of boost just to keep it safe
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Dont plan on any other type of AF!!!! :D

The valvesprings are here, as is the pulley (andy and ati both delivered very quickly, thumbsup!), monday I will take the car in for round one of experiments.

1. Dyno as is.
2. Pull filter and redyno.
3. Check intake tract for oil etc. If there is any, clean everything up, including maf, install catch-can, redyno.
4. Switch to a larger pulley (4.5 vs 4.10) to reduce boost.
5. Change valvesprings.

Lets see what the magic combo is! I will update with results.
 
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