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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I'm thinking of lowering my ride to get rid of that "4x4" look.How much will the stock configuration allow to lower?Is that going to be low enough?what parts do i need to save the rocker panels and the front?Do all four wheels need to be re-aligned?Anybody got any pics? Thanks Greg.:-?
 

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Forgot where I found this, but had it in a word file......

Good luck! :cheers:






Lowering the C5- Instructions by “G Man”


Tools required
- Floor Jack
- Jack Stands (2)
- Wheel Blocks
- Hog ring Pliers or Needle nose Pliers
- Hacksaw or Serrated Knife
- 10mm Ratcheting Wrench or 10mm Socket Wrench w/swivel extension
- 18mm Combination Wrench or 18mm Socket Wrench
- 13/16” Combination Wrench or 13/16” Deep Socket Wrench


REAR

1. Make certain the car is located on a level surface.
2. Place blocks or boards under the front wheels to prevent the car from rolling.
3. Using the floor jack, raise the rear of the car, insuring that the jack is positioned in the center of the rear cross member (silver/gray in color).
4. Place two jack stands under the rear cross member, and SLOWLY lower the car onto them. Make sure you have raised the car high enough to allow plenty of workspace.
5. Locate the rear leaf spring. There is a bolt on each end (18mm bottom, 13/16” nut on top), with a rubber bushing top and bottom. At the top of the bolt, above the nut, you will see a small c-clip. This clip must be removed in order to get the nut off the top. Use hog ring pliers or needle nose pliers to remove the clip.
6. With the c-clip removed, loosen the top nut from the bolt.
7. Pull out the bolt and bushings from the leaf spring(the leaf spring is NOT under pressure).
8. Cut both bushings so that the section with the extension is the only one left. Use a hacksaw or serrated knife. ** NOTE: If the car is too low for your personal preference, you can add back the piece or pieces you cut off **.
9. Once the bushings are cut, reassemble the bolt, bushings, and nut through the leaf spring and A-Arm. Leave TWO threads showing on top when you re-tighten. It will seem loose, but when the car is lowered onto the ground, the weight will load the spring. Don’t forget to put the c-clip back on.
10. Lower the car, the rear is done !!

FRONT

1. Make sure the car is in gear to prevent it from rolling.
2. Raise the car with the jack positioned in the center of the front cross member.
3. Place the two jack stands under the cross member, and SLOWLY lower the car onto them.
4. Remove the front wheels. It may be necessary to slightly loosen the lug nuts before the wheels are completely off the ground.
5. Find the front leaf spring, and with a 10mm wrench or socket, turn the bolt as if you were loosening it (It is reverse threaded so you are actually tightening it).
6. Turn the bolt until there is no longer a gap between the bushing and the bolt. Measure the exposed threads to insure the other side is done the same.
7. Put the wheels back on and lower the car. NOTE- It may be necessary to place a board under the tires so you will be able to remove the floor jack once the car is lowered.
 

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Z0000006 said:
FRONT

5. Find the front leaf spring, and with a 10mm wrench or socket, turn the bolt as if you were loosening it (It is reverse threaded so you are actually tightening it).
6. Turn the bolt until there is no longer a gap between the bushing and the bolt. Measure the exposed threads to insure the other side is done the same.
Has anyone damaged the rubber cushion attached to the end of the threaded adjuster when making this adjustment? The Service Manual actually call out a special tool to take the pressure off the rubber cusion before turning the bolt.

Ya, I know... the manuals wrong :D (inside joke) :D.

Apparently, if there is too much force on the adjuster's rubber cushion (from the leaf spring) it can be damaged when turned. You could be tearing it up and not even realizing it?
 
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