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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,

I have a new block on the way... perhaps some of you remember the valve I dropped that went through the piston a while back.

Anyways... I want to build a relatively safe 500rwhp blower car. Thinking A&A front mount, running as little boost as possible to to make 500rwhp.

Would going with the larger chamber AFR heads make a huge difference in reliability? I already blew one engine, and I don't want to blow a second.

I have TPIS headers, hiflows, PRT's, etc and will probably order a FAST intake also.

I will also do a blower cam.

Like I said, I want to build as reliable a 500rwhp car as possible without changing the pistons... or should I just change damn pistons (stock crank and rods).

Thoughts? I've torn this car appart a few times and I don't want to do it again.

Zed
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sabot said:
500rwhp why not just go with a NA 427.

Sabot
I got a free replacement block. GM decided that spring shouldn't have snapped. So I have a brand new block... I almost feel like I shouldn't touch it because it's warranteed.

Zed
 

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Are you getting a free "short block" or just a block? If your just getting an empty block, go complete forged internals. If you are getting a short block, leave it alone, put on the A&A kit and run the larger pulley. I wouldn't bother changing out the heads unless you are going the forged internal route and are wanting better flow and lower CR to make big boost numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Zrod said:
Are you getting a free "short block" or just a block? If your just getting an empty block, go complete forged internals. If you are getting a short block, leave it alone, put on the A&A kit and run the larger pulley. I wouldn't bother changing out the heads unless you are going the forged internal route and are wanting better flow and lower CR to make big boost numbers.
Free Short Block... everything except the intake as far as I understand. The heads wouldn't help with reliability?

What would it lower the CR to to go with the bigger chamber AFR's?

Or... maybe... say how many lbs of boost would I be running to make around 500 wheel?

Zed
 

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Zed, with an A&A kit you could probably run 4-5psi to get 500rwhp. I think guys are seeing closer to 600rwhp with Andy's kit and 9-10psi.

I'm running 6psi on a Vortech kit and have the power in my sig. My only mods are the Vortech, TRAP cold air and LG headers with cats. Everything else is stock, including the mufflers.
 

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Yo fellow bald headed brother...

Zed, why not go with a semi aggressive cam and some AFR heads. Put them on before you drop the engine in the car. Make 450 rwhp, have a nice lumpy idle and be happy. I can tell you that with my measly 440 rwhp, my wheels spin like crazy and traction is hard to come by. Can't imagine what it's like up at the 500 hp levels. Just a thought. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
jub jub said:
Yo fellow bald headed brother...

Zed, why not go with a semi aggressive cam and some AFR heads. Put them on before you drop the engine in the car. Make 450 rwhp, have a nice lumpy idle and be happy. I can tell you that with my measly 440 rwhp, my wheels spin like crazy and traction is hard to come by. Can't imagine what it's like up at the 500 hp levels. Just a thought. :)
This is the other approach! Looks pretty stock when you pop the hood, costs less money than a MAG or ATI (but nets less power, but it is usuable reliable power). I will have the stock heads on a shelf, and the stock cam aside so I can "reverse" the process should I sell the car eventually.

I've always wanted a blower car though... I like the noises they make... but I also really like lope... lots of lope... wish I could have both.

Did you go with AFR's? What kind of Cam? I missed something, when did you do it?

Zed.
 

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Zed said:
This is the other approach! Looks pretty stock when you pop the hood, costs less money than a MAG or ATI (but nets less power, but it is usuable reliable power). I will have the stock heads on a shelf, and the stock cam aside so I can "reverse" the process should I sell the car eventually.

I've always wanted a blower car though... I like the noises they make... but I also really like lope... lots of lope... wish I could have both.

Did you go with AFR's? What kind of Cam? I missed something, when did you do it?

Zed.
All the details are in "My Garage".

I went with a Comp cam XE-R design. It has a nice lopey idle but not too crazy. It idles at 900 rpm and sounds great! AFR heads that have been milled for about 10.9:1 C/R. All in all, a great package and plenty of clearance for the valves! It makes 440 rwhp, which when you think about it is plenty for the street. I'm also using the stock clutch and so far is holding up well. :)
 

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With my #s I decided to use Carteks 348 CID X Series Forged Short Block. The car is plenty fast for me. I 'll keep you posted in a couple of weeks it should be done. BTW I also went with Luk Gold pro Clutch due to sticky clutch pedal (with slave and master cyl)
 

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Louis Rivera said:
With my #s I decided to use Andy's 348 CID Stage II Forged Short Block. The car is plenty fast for me. I 'll keep you posted in a couple of weeks it should be done. BTW I also went with Luk Gold pro Clutch due to sticky clutch pedal (with slave and master cyl)
Damn I must be the last virgin left on LI.

Harry
 

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Louis Rivera said:
With my #s I decided to use Andy's 348 CID Stage II Forged Short Block. The car is plenty fast for me.
Forging the internals is a wise choice, can never be too safe with FI :thumb:

Alky injection would be somethin you might want to consider while you are in there... pretty good bang for the buck

:cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
B_P_fox said:
Forging the internals is a wise choice, can never be too safe with FI :thumb:

Alky injection would be somethin you might want to consider while you are in there... pretty good bang for the buck

:cheers:
Do you think that 500 rwhp, low boost would still eventually take out a stock block?

Ever heard of a Mag Super charged car taking the block out... not sure I have... maybe that is the way to go?

Zed
 

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Any FI blower will shorten life of motor, forging will keep things together longer
 

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Sabot said:
Damn I must be the last virgin left on LI.

Harry

Your Day will come :D :D
 

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Zed said:
Do you think that 500 rwhp, low boost would still eventually take out a stock block?

Ever heard of a Mag Super charged car taking the block out... not sure I have... maybe that is the way to go?

Zed
I am not the authority on internal combustion engines though I am trained in turbine engine theory I'll let the pro's chime in on this. IMHO The CR onna stock LS6 is kinda near the limit with the stock pistons and ~7#-8# boost.

I had a supporting vendor here on the EastCoast originally install my mag and my pistons got damaged. I understand supercharging is their thing... it's in their monicker FWIW

I am not about to say if they tuned it correctly or not that would be your call, it's not like I blew a hole in my headers, so I will have to give the benifit of doubt to them and say if you are going FI it would be wise to think about forging the internals and while you are at it alky injection is a great bang for the buck.

:cheers:
 

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B_P_fox said:
I am not the authority on internal combustion engines though I am trained in turbine engine theory I'll let the pro's chime in on this. IMHO The CR onna stock LS6 is kinda near the limit with the stock pistons and ~7#-8# boost.

I had a supporting vendor here on the EastCoast originally install my mag and my pistons got damaged. I understand supercharging is their thing... it's in their monicker FWIW

I am not about to say if they tuned it correctly or not that would be your call, it's not like I blew a hole in my headers, so I will have to give the benifit of doubt to them and say if you are going FI it would be wise to think about forging the internals and while you are at it alky injection is a great bang for the buck.

:cheers:
east coast hmm
 
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