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Discussion Starter #1
Aside from brake mods which I am accustomed to, what size rims and tires should I get? 18/19? 17/18? 18/18? Any particular brands that are good performers for reasonable prices?

What will fit in the wheel wells without rolling or tubbing?

Any must do suspension or cooling mods for a 2003 Z06 other than lowering?

Thanks.
 

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The most important thing you can do is to make the car and driver safe.
Good brake pads.
Good/fresh brake fluid.
Cooling for the brakes.
5/6 point harnesses.

If you are a true newbie you want to spend money on yourself(seat time) not on mods.
The Z06 is a great track car and will beat almost any other stock car with equal drivers.
Do not worry about wheels. The stock ones are fine and were designed to work with your car.
A good set of track tires would be fine but not necessary.
When you progress you will find that all the fluids will get too hot. Then you can look into coolers for the oil, tranny and dif.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm no newbie to racing or driving events, just to the Corvette. I definitely will invest in wheels and tires. Seat time will definitely help in determining handling characteristics, but I am hoping to utilize others vast experience with this car to set the car up properly so it performs well with my extremely aggressive style.
 

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As with most cars, cooling is the thing that needs to be improved the most for heavy duty track use. I do 20+ track events a year so cooling improvements were a must in order to keep the car reliable and safe.

I added DRM (Doug Rippie Motorsports) brake ducts (you also need spindle ducts to go with these, you can get them from LG or Phoenix or make your own), DRM transmission cooler, DRM differential cooler (both are mounted in the rear brake ducts), and Lingenfelter engine oil cooler.

Another cooling item is Coolmats for the tie rod end links (PFYC sells them); you need these or you'll kill the tie rod end links in a few track days due to the heat from the rotors; you'll have random toe settings once the end links are toast.

You should lower it as far as it will go with the stock lowering bolts and get a track alignment (max out camber, zero toe in the front and a little toe in on the rear).

The stock seats suck for track use but some have been happy with just adding a harness (I put in Sparco Roadster seats plus a 5 point harness and an Autopower rollbar).

The brake rotors are a weakness of the car. However, it appears that if you season them properly (see www.baer.com for tips), they will last longer. If you overdrive the car with AH on or in Competition Mode, you will overheat the rear rotors and they can crack (AH uses the rear brakes a lot). Avoid kicking in the AH system or turn it off.

Wheels and tires are a personal choice as well as a financial choice. Some like 17" all the way around, some like 18 in front and 17 in back, the combinations are endless. Search the forum for opinions. I run 17 front and 18 rear; CCW wheels with Toyo RA1 tires (275 front and 305 rear). In this configuration the car still understeers a bit; some go with same size tires all the way around which is probably ideal.

Have fun!
 

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DE advice

I've done about 14 so far this year, first year with Z06.

What's worked for me, without breaking the bank:

1) Tires - Toyo Proxes RA1 - first set: drove to/from track, weekend and 8 tracks day - not bad waer, and still a true R-Compound. 275/40/17 F, 305 35/18 R (stock wheels) , slight width add.
2) Brakes - front: DRM ducts, stainless pistons, lines, cobalt pads, Castrol SRF, cheap NAPA rotors)throw em out when you are done) rear: lines, cobalts
3) Safety - Hardbar harness bar, Brey-Krause lap belt brackets, 6 point Teamtech harness, got an extra seat cover for later and took a knife to the Z seat seams to pull the shoulder harness through
4) Geometry - max front camber, max lowering front / rear
Dr Chill said:
Aside from brake mods which I am accustomed to, what size rims and tires should I get? 18/19? 17/18? 18/18? Any particular brands that are good performers for reasonable prices?

What will fit in the wheel wells without rolling or tubbing?

Any must do suspension or cooling mods for a 2003 Z06 other than lowering?

Thanks.
 

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Cooling on DEs

Sleepless - I was busy giving DE advice and noticed you and I agree :cool: on some stuff (Toyos, DRM ducts).

I haven't done the powertrain cooling, though. I've used water wetter, AMSOIL fluid change, and just let her cool from time to time when she got too high, but:

When you say your trans and diff coolers are "in the rear brake ducts" what do you mean. i am considering these mods.

sleepless said:
As with most cars, cooling is the thing that needs to be improved the most for heavy duty track use. I do 20+ track events a year so cooling improvements were a must in order to keep the car reliable and safe.

I added DRM (Doug Rippie Motorsports) brake ducts (you also need spindle ducts to go with these, you can get them from LG or Phoenix or make your own), DRM transmission cooler, DRM differential cooler (both are mounted in the rear brake ducts), and Lingenfelter engine oil cooler.

Another cooling item is Coolmats for the tie rod end links (PFYC sells them); you need these or you'll kill the tie rod end links in a few track days due to the heat from the rotors; you'll have random toe settings once the end links are toast.

You should lower it as far as it will go with the stock lowering bolts and get a track alignment (max out camber, zero toe in the front and a little toe in on the rear).

The stock seats suck for track use but some have been happy with just adding a harness (I put in Sparco Roadster seats plus a 5 point harness and an Autopower rollbar).

The brake rotors are a weakness of the car. However, it appears that if you season them properly (see www.baer.com for tips), they will last longer. If you overdrive the car with AH on or in Competition Mode, you will overheat the rear rotors and they can crack (AH uses the rear brakes a lot). Avoid kicking in the AH system or turn it off.

Wheels and tires are a personal choice as well as a financial choice. Some like 17" all the way around, some like 18 in front and 17 in back, the combinations are endless. Search the forum for opinions. I run 17 front and 18 rear; CCW wheels with Toyo RA1 tires (275 front and 305 rear). In this configuration the car still understeers a bit; some go with same size tires all the way around which is probably ideal.

Have fun!
 

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99cobra said:
When you say your trans and diff coolers are "in the rear brake ducts" what do you mean. i am considering these mods.
The "radiators" are right behind the inlets for the rear brake ducts. The pumps are mounted next to the radiators. The black inner fender liner fits right over both so you really can't even see them, but you sure as heck can hear the pumps. I've got a switch so I can turn them off when not on the track.
 

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Coolers

Thanks. So it doesn't interfere with the ducts? You used the whole kit from Rippie? Had you looked into cheaper ways?

Thanks!
 

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Ducts

ND - Appreciate you comment, but I never said anything about DRM ducts in the rear, I was asking if the coolers interfered with the stock rear brake ducts...I too have DRM and know they are on the front....the additional reference to Rippie kit was regarding the cooling kits...
 

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Before my first DE in the Vette (and I was a DE veteran in a 94 RX-7 at that point), all I did was lower the car and align it with more front camber (making sure the rear of the car was higher than the front to prevent lift) and change the brake fluid (I now use Wilwood EXP 600 Plus which is 626F dry and 417F wet boiling point) and put on Goodridge SS lines.

During that DE, at Roebling Road in Savannah, I got oil temps approaching 300 degrees and a tranny overtemp warning at 274ish.

Before my second DE, I bought CCW wheels with Hoosier R3S03s, but didn't do anything else. I chose to run 17x10 front and 17x11 rear because I had my eye on SCCA T1 even back in 2001 and these wheels sizes are required by SCCA rules for the C5/Z06. At this DE, I also had oil high temps and I believe a tranny high temp warning. I controlled these by backing out of it, and/or pulling in early.

I put in a Cobra racing seat, but I'm not sure anymore if that was before my first or second DE.

Before my third DE at PIR in Portland, I added an oil cooler in the nose and T1 sway bars. At that DE, temps were much cooler than at Roebling, and with an oil cooler the oil temps were fine. I also did not get a tranny overtemp warning all day.

Then I caved and did the full SCCA T1 prep at Phoenix.
You can see my current mods here:
SCCA T1 Preps

I've heard that Sebring is a pretty fast track, so you may want to address the brakes first.
My setup:
- stock calipers and rotors
- DRM brake ducts with Phoenix spindle ducts
- Goodridge SS lines with AN connections
- Carbotech XP10 front and XP9 rear pads (for use with R compound tires only)
- Wilwood EXP 600 Plus fluid

If you are interested in putting in some AMSOIL in the engine, tranny or diff, please drop me an email or PM and I'll set you up.
:cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Someone on another forum mentioned brake duct fans and mister. I've never seen this before. Also, is replacing the pistons with ss ones important to decrease heat transmission?

The DRM ducts look like modified stock ones. Has anyone done this because adding some hose to the current ducts would be a lot less expensive.

If I were to go with a wide front tire and run equal sizes on all 4, what width rims and offsets would you recommend? I do not want rubbing and don't want excess sticking out too much.

Thanks to all for your valuable input.
 

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The DRM ducts are extensions to the stock 'wheel well ventilators' and are quite effective. And yes there are some who have fabbed their own cooling system using a variety of methods. If you do a search you'll find some threads with photos.

The SS caliper pistons work well and are worth the cost if you track the car much. The only drawbacks being the cost and they are somewhat heavier.

99cobra,

Sorry for the misunderstanding. But in my reply above I did mention the coolers do render the rear brake ducts inop.

No Doubt said:
...I also have trans and diff coolers mounted in the rear brake ducts which are rendered inoperative as far as rear brake cooling...
 

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ND - no problem, thanks, and I hadn't noticed the "inop" in your post. Communication is always interesting, and it's amazing how often misinterpretation, etc. happens.....

Dr. Chill - it's been a while since I installed the DRM ducts, but if memory serves, the stock ducts, (and btw calling them "wheel well ventilators", as our esteemed colleague, No Doubt has done, is far more descriptive) would be very hard to add hose to. The DRM's are much longer, they are skinny to avoid clearance where the wheel gets closest to the wheel, when turning. One money / time saver is not to go with the spindle duct, which accepts the hose at the spindle (separate piece available from LG). You really can get the hose right up to the rotor even without it, and you have to remove bearing to install. Maybe you can get used DRM ducts, too.

The front wheel question is a good one. I, too, want to do something. I am going to try the "rear wheel on front" idea for fit and will report back...
 

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SCCA T1 vettes run 17x10 fronts and they do stick out about 1/2" - 3/4" from the wheel well. Not sure about offset. I just called CCW and said I was running a Z06 in SCCA T1 and John knew exactly what I needed. I run 315/35-17 fronts on these wheels with a car that is lowered about an inch and only have minor rubbing issues. At near full lock turns, normally in the pits, the tire rubs the DRM duct, but my ducts have lasted two years now. And the tire will rub on the inside lip of the fendor under hard compression. You can not tell this from the outside, but if you run your fingers on the upper lip of the fender you can feel where the rubbing occurs.

Hope this helps a little.
 

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rears on fronts

Tried my rears on the front. Stock wheels with 305/35/18 (1omm wider than stock). They stuck out a full 1". Too much for my eye, and for rubbing. Stock front wheels with 275/40/18 (again 10mm wider than stock) stick out only 3/8".

Don't think the fronts on rears is a solution.

CCW would do it indeed, but the $$!
 

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a better cheap front 18 idea

Dr. Chill - This might work. Replica 18 x 10.5 seem to be available with 58mm offset. This is 8mm greater than stock 50mm. Bigger offset pushes wheel in. By my calcs with this wheel and 285/30/18, wheel would stick out only 8mm, less than the 3/8" (11mm) I'm at now with 275/40/17.

Could run Pilot Sport Cup in the 285/30/18 size(would use 315/30/18 on rear w/ stock wheels).

The rake is same as stock, lower sections / wider is lower, better grip, and I could then do my c6 z51 idea (see previous posts) for cheap brake upgrade...

Only problem Pilot Sport Cup more expensive than Toyo Proxes RA1 (what i'm running now), for what I hear is same perf.
 
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