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Newbie here.I have a 09 Z06 with 9,000 miles mostly stock.I have added borla exhaust. Do have headers and xpipe but have not installed yet.I have started getting information on hptuners.I'm going to a seminar in November to learn how to use.Can't wait to figure all this tuning out.I want to be able to get the full potential out of my car.Any help or advice would be welcomed.
 

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Good luck.... Try it out , and sent your file to some1 reputable and have them take a look..
 

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Mail order tune or dyno tune?
I am looking for advice either way on which I should do. My car has had two changes made. I have added a Corsa axle back exhaust system and a Halltech MF103 with Beehive. The car runs fine no light s no problems etc. Now do I make the last changes or leave well enough alone?
I have contacted two shops where I live and inquired about a dyno tune. Both gave me the same canned answer that they have an experience GM tech and that they could do a dyno tune blah blah blah. Neither shop made me think this is where I need to do. the one shop has been around for quite sometime and the owner used to run a very reputable (mostly BMW and Porsche) independent shop that I think I can trust but don't know enough about their GM tuning capabilities.
The other option is to go with a mail order tune. One of the tuners I have contacted states that he will have me load the tune drive the car get the data logs send them to him, he'll tweak that info send it back for me to load back into the car do that process again resend the logs do a final tweak and should be good to go. Checked his Facebook page and his webpage seems to do a lot of GM trucks some Camaro's a few Vettes but not much on the LS7 in particular. So do any of you out there have any advice one way or the other? I've been trying to do as much research on this a s I can on my own but if I can get any first hand knowledge I'll certainly take it
 

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You may not like my reply but dyno tunes most cases are useless as tits on a bull

If the shop uses a static dyno drum, which weighs less then ccar and you in it then results are skewed the wrong way
Static drum cannot allow the car to be driven under all normal street driving conditions, it ONLY allows for WOT and then jump off gas pedal

Only other type of chassis dyno is a load bearing design where it adds load to rear wheels to look like on the street
It also allows the car to be driven just as on the street
Being this would take longer amount of labor to do, normally shops up the costs.
Problem with them is if not properly calibrated ( best it is done for each vehicle) for total weight, weather including elevation, temp and dew point,
then results will be wrong.

Your car is used in real world on streets or tracks, not on some chassis dyno.

Mail in, most times that means a "cookie cutter" blind tune where tuner frankly may have to guess on all tuning variables and cost you shipping fees of multi times sending PCM roundtrip. (about maybe $30-40 each round trip)

Add the down time from time you yank PCM out (buried inside lower front right fender well), to round trip to tuner and back leaving the car non driveable each time PCM is sent out

LS7 not having any cylinders walls, if crap tuned most likely they crank the timing up too much and you end up with a rod through the block or bend valves.

If you like what I posted and want a third way of getting a good safe tune, not leave home or yanking PCM out/in, PM me
or if your not too far from Wichita Kansas there is a shop there I know that has been doing good Corvette tunes for around 15 years.
 
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