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The amount of time you get out of a nitrous bottle depends on two things.
1. The size of the bottle & how full it is.
2. The size of the nitrous jet being used. A 200 h.p. jet will use roughly twice as much nitrous as a 100 h.p. jet.

I think the rule of thumb is : 10 pound bottle with 100 h.p. jet will give you approx. two minutes. 15 pound bottle 3 minutes.
Hope this helps. :) Ed G.
 

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I've run nitrous on only one of my own cars before (a '96 Cobra), but have had many friends who've run it a lot.

On my old Cobra, I had a 125hp "dry" kit (not as efficient) and it would go 7 full 1/4 mile passes with a 10lb bottle before pressure dropped off enough to make it inconsistent. There was still some nitrous in the bottle...just not enough to keep pressure up high enough to give maximum performance.

Hope this helps a bit.

On the street when you'll only use it in one or maybe two gears per encounter, you will find it one bottle will last quite a long time.

You should get Dan and Keith at SpeedWorks to install a kit for you. They do great work on their nitrous kits that I've seen! :D

I typically do all this kind of stuff myself, but I may just have them do the nitrous install on my Z06 when it comes in.
 

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WA 2 FST said:


You should get Dan and Keith at SpeedWorks to install a kit for you. They do great work on their nitrous kits that I've seen! :D

I typically do all this kind of stuff myself, but I may just have them do the nitrous install on my Z06 when it comes in.
I agree. Keith does a great 'hard line' install. A little more mney but well worth it, I think.

RG
 

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I have a question : How do you hook up the activation switch on a Vette? I'm used to using a micro switch on the throttle linkage , but the Vette is "fly-by-wire" and there is no throttle linkage. So , what is everybody using?
 

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butcher said:
I have a question : How do you hook up the activation switch on a Vette? I'm used to using a micro switch on the throttle linkage , but the Vette is "fly-by-wire" and there is no throttle linkage. So , what is everybody using?
I know I'm going to get flamed and classified as a "stupid Mustang guy" for telling you how I intend to run mine. Be kind, folks. I've been hot-rodding for awhile now (even though I'm 33) and have experience with setting this stuff up. Been running blowers on various vehicles for most of my days, and even though I've only run nitrous on one of my cars it was a good experience...and I've helped others set theirs up successfully.

I will mount an arm switch to turn the system on. Then I will run a shift-knob mounted activation switch. I have done this before and it worked flawlessly. Why?

Well, using nitrous in 1st gear (and many times 2nd as well) is useless on a car that already makes excellent power on motor. If you have it set up to turn on via a full-throttle switch then it will activate any time the hammer is dropped. Having it button-activated allows the user to take into account road conditions, etc. and decide when enough traction has been achieved for the nitrous to be useful. Saves nitrous, saves your tires, and you win a LOT more races. :D If you run slicks, then a WOT switch is better, but I don't run slicks.

Add an rpm window-switch for over-rev protection and this is a completely safe and effective way to activate the nitrous system. It doesn't take much coordination as one might think.

Some will say to mount the arm switch on the shifter and run a regular full-throttle switch on the throttle body (not on this car) or pedal, etc. This would probably work fine, too. I like having complete control over when the nitrous is injected into the motor.

Good luck!
 

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I have the Micro switch mounted on the floor under the gas pedal & the MSD Window switch.
 

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Hey Wes

Wes,
This is becoming a second Lightning forum! Great to see you are getting a Z06, you will love it!
JD
 

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Re: Hey Wes

GalaxyEng said:
Wes,
This is becoming a second Lightning forum! Great to see you are getting a Z06, you will love it!
JD
Thanks JD! Good to see you here, too.

Will be a long wait for the car, but well worth it I know. Like I keep telling everyone else...I'll have parts stacking up in my garage before the car even arrives. :p
 

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I agree with Wes. This setup basicly has three arming switches in a row. Switch 1 is the master toggle switch receiving power (or ground depending on how you wired the relay) going in and coming out when armed. From there the signal travels to the push button switch mounted on the shifter (or steereing wheel ). When this push-button is pressed the signal continues down to the wide-open throttle switch mounted behind the gas pedal (or carb,throttle body if there is a throttle cable). At wide open throttle the signal will pass thru all the switches and into the relay activating the solinoids. If you don't press the push -button in first gear then the nitrous dosn't flow. By using both the push-button & the wide-open throttle switch you are insuring the the nitrous is only activated at wide open throttle when you want it.
Ed G.
 

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A guy used to make a Throttle Position Sensor Switch that tapped into the TPS reading and triggered the nitrous relay or whatnot that way. It was adjustable so you could dial in when you wanted it to come on and there was a small LED to show you when it was on. It was pretty much a "smart" relay. Power to unit, ground to unit, TPS 5v trigger switch to unit and power out of unit to nitrous kit.

I bought mine from www.performancess.com back in the day and have used it for a few years on my '96 Z-28. I have about 5 friends that use the same kit (since I installed all their kits.) Well that guy stopped making them and then Performance SS stopped selling them. I found the same exact thing on a Corvette Vender site, but forgot who :/

I'm not even sure if we have a TPS sensor on this car, or if that is all controlled by the gas pedal and the motor on the TB. I'm sure there is a TPS as a backup at least.
 

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Breathless Performance sells this switch for about $100. I don't think it's worth it. Remember this switch still has to send the signal to the relay because of the amount of current the soliniods use. I would call that a "smart switch". Although it works, the reg. switch that comes in the nitrous kit works excellent mounted behind the gas pedal as long as you take a minute to adjust so that the pedal has to be 100% floored to contact the switch. Your better off saving that $100 for an rpm window switch which is excellent insurance to make sure the nitrous only works between 3000 & 6300 rpm's.

As far as the TPS , yes there is a tps sensor on the throttlebody and one of the wires coming off it is the wire with the varying signal voltage that increases with the throttle position.
 

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Well when I bought mine it was $45 or so. It was worth it then just for pimp points alone :) I'd rather have an electrical device then a mechanical device. I don't know how many friends have tried to use a mechanical WOT switch and at some point it will move, bend, etc and their nitrous doesn't flow. This usually happens during a street race or other encounter since you ARE using the nitrous. I don't like surprises and I HATE making excuses. My "smart switch" hasn't let me down yet. All it is is another switch. My dry NOS kit on my Z-28 consists of 5176 kit, 24# SVO injectors (stock 24# injectors lock up at high pressure), MSD 6AL with the spark rev limit set at 6,000 rpm, HPP+ to raise stock rev limiter (fuel limiter is no good on nitrous) to 6,400 rpm, MSD window switch set to come on at 3,000 rpm and off at 5,900 rpm, AutoMeter mini shift light set to come on at 5,700 rpm to shift by 5,900 rpm, TPSS "smart switch", FPSS which reads the fuel pressure has been bumped up above 55psi (stock fuel pressure in Z-28 is 41-47 psi) before the second solonoid opens. That is about it. I've set up a few friends this way and they are all happy and safe too. I've done 9-10 nitrous installs in the past 3 years :/
 

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Brian, sounds like you have the right set-up on your Z-28. I too had a Z-28 (1994). I was very happy with the performance of that car with a few mods.:) People always ask " doesn't nitrous blow up motors?" I tell them not if it's installed properly with all the safety measures in place & properly calibrated. The rpm switch, low fuel pressure switch, hi-po ignition w/ rev. limiter & timeing retard are the safety measures that make nitrous safe. Correct jets and bottle pressure will give you max. performance.
Don't forget about colder plugs (not platinum). So what kind of times do you get out of your Z-28 with this combo?

Nitrous when done right is your best Bang for the Buck.:)

Here's to the victory at the end of the 1/4 mile :cheers:

Later, Ed G.
 

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Ed

My best times were 11.72 @ 119mph with 1.89 60 fts on 26" ET Streets that I drove around on a lot. This caused them to wear out fast and not hook. I then went Road Racing and pumped 35#'s of juice through the car in one HOT day. Put some 26" ET Drags on the car and ran 11.72 @ 116mph with 1.62 60 fts. I used to run 13.1-13.2 @ 106mph-107mph on motor with that car and then ran 13.8 @ 103mph. I knew something was up. The T-56 was worn out and I could no longer powershift the car (the shifter would get stuck between 3nd and 5th gear and acted like it was neutral and the reverse lights would come on) and I blew the clutch out finally. We pulled the trans to rebuild it and replace the clutch with a Street Twin (was just a normal $95 McCloed disc before) and I was also going to put headers on it. So we pulled the stock dual cat Y-pipe and the stock manifolds and found this:



I was hoping it was just from heat, but it looked to be from mechanical damage. I pulled the head off and found this:



Look at the second cylinder back. There is a piece of ring land missing between 7:00 o'clock and 10:00 o'clock.

So I yanked the engine and have been going through a rebuild for an entire year now. I ordered and ARE solid roller AFR headed 396ci back in Jan of '01. Nick at ARE screwed around with me and lied and kept stringing me along for 8 months promising me, "Next week, next week." We finally had a go at it and I got my money back and am building it locally now. And I sent ARE my engine so I lost that too.

Anyway I can't wait to get it back running and racing it. That is my true drag car, and this Z06 is just tiding me over till then. :)

BTW, I was using NGK TR6 plugs (I think TR6, maybe TR55) whatever ones are a step colder, and I gapped them at .050". Most folks gapped down to .035", but with a good coil and the MSD box mine worked fine. And nobody else was running the times I was with similar setups.

I never had a timing retard box and never ran race gas either. I probably went through about 50-100 15# bottles, I have my own fill station :)

Nitrous is fun, M'kay? :)
 
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