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I have done some searches, but am having trouble finding good recent suggestions.

I was at a HPDE event last week, and destroyed my rear pads and subsequently the rear rotors.

I had swapped to ATE SuperBlue fluid and stainless lines, but was still getting fading so I know I am ready to get up to a track pad.

I would think one set of slotted rotors and a set of pads for the track and one set for the street are in my future. Reccomendations please?

Are Slotted rotors necessiary? Should I just get the cheap NAPA rotors?

Suggestions for street pads? I have polished wheels so I am thinking ceramic pads to minimize dusting.
 

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use stock rotors for the track, never slotted/crossed drilled. I go to Napa Auto $25/rotor or Raybestos $18/rotor

Dot 4 fluid.

a good track pad are Carbotech's, you can get them fm Brian at
www.pfyc.com (forum vendor) great price on a pad that has a good bite and won't corrode your wheels
 

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I think the consensus is run the inexpensive rotors. The OEM GM rotors look like they might be dynamically balanced, but other that that the Raybestos rotors are equal. Both will eventually crack. The holes/grooves won't help stop any faster. I don't think modern HP type pads out gas that much and thats what grooves and holes are for.

A lot of people like the Carbotech pads. I used to run Hawk Blue and find the that the Carbotech XP9 is just as good without all the nasty metal dust. The Blue pads are rotor friendly, but only when up to temperature on the track. I leave the Carbothech pads on all summer and drive work etc. on them. The squeek a little bit sometimes and the dust is about the same or less than the stock OEM pads.
 

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I went to the track yest and kept up with porsche turbos amd new M-3's w/my street stuff. PFC Z pads and street tires. It's all seat time, till you are sliding the car in all the turns and carpeting the brake pedal. As to rear pads going, listen to the subdriver and turn off the handling. The rears then last forever. Mine do. Seat time will cure all your woes. IMHO
 

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In SCCA T1 we must use the stock calipers, rotors, but fluid and pads are unlimited.

I've tried Hawk, PFC and Carbotech and stuck with Carbotech for several reasons including bang for the buck, non-metallic brake dust which is easy to clean even weeks after an event, and their feel which suits my driving style well. Some race pads have too high initial bite for me. The Carbotech in general are progressive enough that if you don't want to get into ABS you don't have to, you can easily modulate the brakes.

The stock rotors work fine for me and you can't beat the cost at $25 a pop. Slotted rotors may work slightly better, but since I can get into ABS on the last lap of an SCCA race, I really don't think I'm limited by brakes, I'm limited by tire grip.

My setup:
- Stock calipers
- OEM rotors (currently using NAPA)
- Carbotech XP11 front, XP10 rear (newest full race setup)
- Wilwood EXP 600 Plus fluid (doesn't meet stock requirements)
- DRM brake ducts with Phoenix spindle ducts
- Goodridge SS lines with AN fittings

Keep in mind, like many other parts of the car, brakes need attention. I bleed and inspect my whole brake system between every track session. At track speeds, a brake problem could be serious. And finally, if you start to have brake problems, realize it is only a DE and pull in. Normally a small leak, boiling fluid, hot pads do not abruptly fail, they get progressively worse. If your pedal starts getting really soft, bring her in. :cheers:
 

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I agree with Subdriver. I have found that the cryo rotors do last longer but at close to $80 a pop. I suspect the cost is the same in the end with cryo vs. Napa.

What about you guys with Baer, wilwood , AP, Brembo, Stop tech etc. How long to those rotros last and what is the replacement cost?
 

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I've signed up for the Pre-Fest DE in Nashville (Novice Class). I assume novices tend to be tough on brakes, so . . . . I've been following this thread with interest. Sound's like "stock" rotors and Carbotech pads are the consensus.

By the time I get there I could have 11-12K mi. on my stock Z rotors and pads. I want to make sure I'll have good brakes for all of the fest activities and the trip home. :yeadog:

Question #1:
Should I leave the stock setup on (knowing I may trash it at the DE) bring the parts and do a little under the arch work after the event? -or- install new rotors/pads before I leave for the fest -or- fuggettaboudit `cause a novice DE is not gonna be that tough on the hardware? :screwy:

I've started looking around and I can't find anything close to the rotor prices that have been mentioned here. The best prices I can find for the NAPA/Raybestos rotors are in in the $55/rotor range. :roll:

Question #2:
Can you tell me where you got your rotors for those prices?

Thanks - Stry
 

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If it were me I would just chance the stock stuff.

If you are driving to the event who wants to carry a bunch of extra stuff. I might carry the carbotechs just in case, as you will own a set anyway after the DE gets you hooked on the sport. Keep in mind the race pads dust like crazy, I can't drive two miles in the city without dusting the rotors a color 3 shades darker than normal. The stock rotors should be fine for you first event or two. I would however flush the brake fluid with someone that has a Tech2 and replace it with Motul 600RBF. Try trackhaus.com to see a chart on brake fluids and temps.

Have fun, learn the car.
 

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Carbotech brakes! Cheap rotors from Rockauto.com (or NAPA) for $20 each! Motul 600 brake fluid! Goodridge Stainless Steel lines and you'll have good brakes for a long, long time!!

Drive hard!
 
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