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I was on a trip sometime ago, and the right window wouldn't close for a while. After a stop and shut down, it was OK.

Now a month and a half later, once again on a trip (580 miles from home on Sunday, naturally) the service soon light comes on, reduced power message, oil pressure gauge goes goes to zero, temperature gauge goes to infinity, gas gauge goes to zero. In short the dash is generally beeping and bopping, and the dash lights are all flashing, and neither window will close, but the cars drives fine.

I stop at McDonald's and ponder what to do figuring it is an electrical malfunction, so I checked the relays and fuses for perhaps one was loose. There wasn't an obvious problem. We take off and no problem for the rest of the trip except once I got the beeping associated with the traction control warming up, but not the message, just the beeping several hundred miles after the first problem. I think this happened when I was pulling into a gas station. When I restarted, it never happened again.

Internittent electrical glitches, I hate them. Anyone ever have a problem like this. I was thinking about taking out each relay and fuse, checking them for corrusion and reseating them as a first step. The car has 36,000 miles on it.
 

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same thing happened to me service traction control, active hadling, reduced engine power all at once. couldnt roll up the passenger side window. before taking it to the dealer i disconnected the battery over night and cleared all the codes car runs like normal now. try it!
 

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HI there,
As far as the first post goes, I would suggest that you have an electrical connection where the door wiring harness meets the body harness.
I have seen literally over 100 cars with terminal connection problems at this location.
Conditions could be substantial as 'reduced engine power' or something as minor as the the door window not working correctly.
Specifically, you would remove the lower instrument panel cover above the passenger electrical center. Against the A pillar there is a wiring harness that goes through the plastic cover.
Pull that out, and disconnect the 2 sides, my theory being this.
There is a terminal that is spread out that supplies POWER to the passenger side door control module, therefore, creating your concern.
Take a look and let us know what you have.
Allthebest, c4c5
 

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Yo0u guys! I just had the exact same problem today. It happened last year about this time. Dealer was no help but for lightening my wallet for a buck. Today tried d/c the batt for 1/2 hr, still no joy on the pass. door. but at least all the gages went up like normal. Now trying to charge the batt and leave d/c' o'nite. does anyone have the "real" fix for this chit?
By "terminal spread out" c4c5, do you mean the connector is "open"? Thanks, frustrated Bob
 

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i had the same problem again last week this time i figured it out. where the door meets the body there a rubber boot with wires going through it. i moved the wires around and now the windows works for now so i assume i have a loose connection somewhere. as soon as it does it again im gonna take it to the dealer
 

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Right door "No Comm."

It appears to be a wiring fault unrelated to the computer bells, bongs, and messages. Key on, engine off, I move the door full open and the window and lock control lose power. move the door half to full shut and power returns. do that a couple times and the poewr comes and goes . Anybody know which connector near the batt I have to disconn to remove the door harness> Or do I just go cutting wires ttill the problem stays? :bmad:
 

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c4c5specialist said:
HI there,
As far as the first post goes, I would suggest that you have an electrical connection where the door wiring harness meets the body harness.
I have seen literally over 100 cars with terminal connection problems at this location.
Conditions could be substantial as 'reduced engine power' or something as minor as the the door window not working correctly.
Specifically, you would remove the lower instrument panel cover above the passenger electrical center. Against the A pillar there is a wiring harness that goes through the plastic cover.
Pull that out, and disconnect the 2 sides, my theory being this.
There is a terminal that is spread out that supplies POWER to the passenger side door control module, therefore, creating your concern.
Take a look and let us know what you have.
Allthebest, c4c5
Took 18 months and 4 dealerships before they got my '00 FRC fixed. This went all the way to the top of GM, getting Dave Peacey involved. He was Corvette quality control at the time and my fix was put in the fixem book for all other dealerships.
 

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RDCM No Comm

Well, FRC TOm don't keep me in suspense , cuz I'd like to try to fix it before taking it to the lame dealer on Monday! Thx. Bob
 

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touring2 said:
Well, FRC TOm don't keep me in suspense , cuz I'd like to try to fix it before taking it to the lame dealer on Monday! Thx. Bob
The fix was as c5c4 stated, the connection in the A-pillar.
My wiring harness was crimped right from the factory and started giving me problems with just a 100 miles on it.
My selling dealer voided the warranty because of a head and cam package and that's when GM got involved with the help of 1fastdog.
 

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check the ground wires too... there was a post a while ago about corrosion at the ground points causing all kinds of weird intermittent electrical issues.
 
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