[Craigk]

Anyone know what it is? Also should I use a cross pattern? I don't want to screw the rotors up. Rear rim. Thanks, Craig

 

[HarleyB]

As I read in the manual: 100 ft/lbs - tighten in the "star" pattern.

HarleyB(Z)

 

[Fanatical1]

Craig,

I believe that it is 100lbs. cross pattern, but wait for someone else to verify.

 

[Craigk]

100 FT LB IS CORRECT.

Thanks, Craig

 

[Ranger]

The pattern I use is a progressive tightening in three stages 50 ft-lbs, 75, 100 using the star pattern. I do the 50 and 75 on the lift and then retorque to 100 once the wheel is on the ground.

I have used this process since 1989 every time a wheel is removed and have not had a recurrence of the rotor warpage I got on my '85.

Ranger

 

[PA_Z06]

I also recheck after 25 to 50 miles and then again after 500 miles.

 

[Craigk]

Thanks for the inputs. That is what makes this place great! My repainted/undamaged Z06 wheel is back on the car and torqued to proper specs. I mentioned yesterday that the color came out a bit dark. Once the wheel was on the car I decided I can live with the slight color difference. When its time for new rubber all the way around I will deal with it then. I guess I will have to have the other 3 painted to match. Craig

 

[mgarfias]

Heres how I do it to make sure the wheel is absolutely centered:

1) with the car up in the air, put the wheel on<BR>
2) spin the wheel slowly while putting the lugs on - put one on, turn it a few turns, then the next, keep doing this until the wheel has seated and all the lugs are hand tight
2) torque the wheels to 30lbs in a star pattern - do this 3 times
3) torque to 60lbs, 3 times
4) torque to 90lbs, also 3 times
5) torque to 100lbs, 3 times

the repetition here will eliminate any false readings. Also, make sure you lube the studs and the seating portion of the lugnuts with some moly lube

(I know, I'm too anal with this, but hey, it works)