Q's for those who replaced their shifters/knobs...

As Frank and others mention above the shift pattern piece is easy, you can almost do it with you finger nail.

Now on to the PIN, mine was a Bi*ch, many curse words spoken. However, Franks came out with just a litte pry with a screwdrive under the lip on the pin. Use a old rag between the screwdriver and the shift knob.

Patience is the important word here.

Good luck

George



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If you use too much brute force like I did, and break off the "T" sections on the pin, simply drill a small hole in the top of the pin and screw in a self-tapping metal screw. Then pry up with a hammer and voila!

Hope this helps.

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Brian - Y5116
NCM Business Member
Yellow/Black '00 Coupe
12.6 @ 115 MPH (2.14 60' time)
329RWHP/338 RWTQ

"Redshift" on http://www.c5forum.com
http://www.c5store.com/

Hey all,

Just received my Kirban in the mail, and I'm anticipating the swap, even if I'll not be able to get my Z out of the garage before June (dang weather)...

I've read lots about the difficulty in getting the stock knob off (removing the pin that seats it), and it has me a bit concerned. One of the things I'm most concerned about is screwing up the stock knob's shift pattern piece when removing it.

Can anyone tell me just how "deep" I need to go with a flathead screwdriver to get under the shift pattern piece to pry it out? Also, do you need to get under it from all sides, or just pry from the bottom? (I haven't attempted this at all, so I have NO idea just how hard/easy this part is.)

Finally, any "tips/tricks" to the whole shifter swapping process? Things to lube, reuse, discard? Things the directions don't tell you?

Thanks, folks!

-Kirk

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2001 Z06
MY w/Black
Memory, Mirrors, Mats, and Moldings!

My Buddy Black Magic installed my Ripper and MOMO knob. I watched him and the top piece just popped off with ease. The pin was also easy to remove. He said it was the easiest one he ever pulled out. Oh..and you can throw the rubberband away that you will find in there.



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Frank Calmes Quicksilver 2001 Z06
Vortex Rammer & Power Duct, B&B PRT's with Speedway Tips, Ripper Shifter with Momo Knob, Chrome Z06 Wheels



Sherylann Calmes Black 2001 Z06
Vortex Rammer & Power Duct, Chrome Z06 Wheels



[email protected]

Mr Meloney:

Use a small, flat screwdriver, like the kind that clips inside a shirtpocket. Wrap the tip with a clean, soft rag, and gently insert under the rear edge of the shift knob cap. Wiggle it a bit as you insert it under the edge of the cap. Put a double folded rag under the blade of the rag to prevent marring the leather, and gently pry up. BINGO! Cap is off.
I tried this the other day to see what the t-pin looks like before I change knobs. Easy as pie!

Zippy
Red/Black Z

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Do not use an M-80 to loosen pin! And watch out when it finally lets go... keep hold of all your tools so you do not damage the interior.

I finished the install of the Kirban/MOMO this morning. Took about an hour and 45... I was taking my time to do it right. It helped that it was 63 and sunny. Took it out and finished getting 500 miles on the odo.

Now the FUN BEGINS!

HarleyB

P.S.: The Kirban is incredible... this how the Z should have come from the factory!!

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'73 Silver Roadster -gone
'89 Red Coupe -gone
'01 SLK320 Silver 6-Speed -Wife's vert/coupe
'01 Quicksilver/Black Z06 •SilverShark•
Throttle Depressed. Driver Very Happy.

Thanks for the replies, folks!



HarleyB (and others) -- I was checking out the directions and the Kirban itself today. I have a couple questions (that might be stupid and obvious once I really get into the install)...



Is there a "front" and "back" to the actual shifter body/plate? It looks pretty similar, front and back, to me, like it doesn't matter how it's bolted in.



But then the arm that gets bolted to the shifter body is to be set so that the groove/slot in it faces rearward, yes? Ok -- but, does it get bolted to the LEFT side of the shifter body's lever, or the RIGHT? That is, once the shifter body is in place, does the treaded arm get bolted on so that it's closest to you, or away from you (on the passenger side of the lever)? This wasn't clear to me.



Finally (I think), what's all the crap about being able to slip a card in between the shifter and the stops? (Again, I have not even taken the threaded arm out of the packaging yet.) Is this more obvious once you get into it? Did anyone really have to adjust his stops, or were things pretty "set" from the factory? (Again, I'm talking Kirban here...)



Oops -- one more thing: Did any of you have to use any sound-deadening material anywhere?



THANKS FOR PUTTING UP WITH THE ONSLAUGHT OF Q'S!



-Kirk

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2001 Z06
MY w/Black
Memory, Mirrors, Mats, and Moldings!

Kirk; I put the new B&M ripper in my car and the slot for the "T" pin goes forward. I also put silicon grease all around the ball end. My shifter did NOT have stops! B&M stopped putting them in as they say the trans has built in stops for the shifter rod??? I have not had any problems with the shifter I don't think that to much slack in the stops and handle is a problem, rather not enough will not let the handle move all the way into place..

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Meillennium Yellow with all options(no museum del),B&M ripper, C.L bypass,Air Rammer,TBB, and more comming in.

C'mon, folks... SOMEONE's got to know which side the threaded shifter arm bolts to the shifter lever (someone who's done a Kirban, that is)...



Anyone?



-Kirk

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2001 Z06
MY w/Black
Memory, Mirrors, Mats, and Moldings!

I put it on the driver's side. Works fine.

HarleyB (see my post on PitRoad)

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'73 Silver Roadster -gone
'89 Red Coupe -gone
'01 SLK320 Silver 6-Speed -Wife's vert/coupe
'01 Quicksilver/Black Z06 •SilverShark•
Throttle Depressed. Driver Very Happy.