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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has any of you had any experience with paint matching MY? I'm considering changing the hood and possibly changing the rear facia to one with a spoiler (once the car gets here). :) I don't want to have to do any blending into other panels or anything. :puke:
 

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CarToys said:
Has any of you had any experience with paint matching MY? I'm considering changing the hood and possibly changing the rear facia to one with a spoiler (once the car gets here). :) I don't want to have to do any blending into other panels or anything. :puke:
Hmmm... Are you talking about "panel painting" the hood et al, as opposed to blending the new paint into the surrounding panels? (Sounds like you are.) If so, I did some rocker panel damage to my car last summer, and I had it refinished and painted, and you can't tell where it was done (but a foot-long section was redone).

Now, as far as I know, the paint was NOT taken into the door or anything -- rather, they just repainted and recleared the rocker. Granted, the rocker isn't a hood or anything, but you simply can't notice ANY difference in the color/texture after the repaint.

I think a decent shop can match the paint well. My shop had the code on microfiche (sp?), and it seemed to match perfectly. (Your car's new enough that it really shouldn't be a problem -- but let the shop tell you how well they think it will match, too.)

-Kirk
 

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I agree. A good Body shop( that mixes their own paint)and a talented painter,who can paint it with the "factory orange peel"should be able to pull it off. Ask around. There are good painters/shops out there. And if your worried, have them paint a test panel, just to check the match. Will cost you a little extra,but money well spent. Good luck. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah, I'm talking about just painting the panel. I'd like a hood that's a bit more agressive looking than the stock one. But I don't want to mess with the factory paint on any of the fenders or front bumper cover, etc. I was just a bit nervous about the MY since it has the tinted clearcoat.

Thanks for the feedback. :cheers:
 

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Not a good idea

CarToys said:
Yeah, I'm talking about just painting the panel. I'd like a hood that's a bit more agressive looking than the stock one. But I don't want to mess with the factory paint on any of the fenders or front bumper cover, etc. I was just a bit nervous about the MY since it has the tinted clearcoat.

Thanks for the feedback. :cheers:
It is incredibly difficult to absolutely match any paint exactly as a stand alone activity. The comnon practice for clear coat paint is to overlap the adjacent panels to blend the paint color. If you don' t want this overlap, don't buy the new hood. Z06Y LADY :)
 

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Most shops mix

Most, if not all shops do their own mixing now but there is a caveat here.
I have a friend who owns his shop and when my kids were young, it seemed like I was spending alot of time out there fixing their "errors in driving".
Their mixing machine was awesome...a sophisticated scale measuring in grams...go to the microfiche for the formula and then start pouring the colors by the gram(s).
However, when the microfiche sheet says, "See alternates 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5", it's like what the hell do you do now? There can be that many variations unless the system is a whole lot more accurate now...it's been well over 5 years since I have gone thru this.
Point being, all colors are not created equal and there could well be minimal variations is the "alternate formulas".
 

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Hmmmmm......

with the clearcoat tinted on our cars from the factory, most body shops I think would not know this. How would the yellow look with no tint in the clear?
Do you think that the General took this into consideration when coming up with the paint codes for repaint?
Just wondering.....:-?
I always say my prayers so that I will not have to ponder those thoughts.:)

:cheers:
 

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All the time

fyrcaptain said:
Hmmmmm......

with the clearcoat tinted on our cars from the factory, most body shops I think would not know this. How would the yellow look with no tint in the clear?
Do you think that the General took this into consideration when coming up with the paint codes for repaint?
Just wondering.....:-?
I always say my prayers so that I will not have to ponder those thoughts.:)

:cheers:
MY cars are damaged and repaired all the time. Good body shops just fix them and with excellent results as I've seen here.

Z06Y Lady. Spending time in the body shop lately, :D
 

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You can call an autobody supply house, and give them the paint code(79) and they will be able to tell you if/ and how many alternates there may be. I think I will call tomorrow just out of curiosity. All the more reason to paint a "test panel" to see the match. And to get it out in the sunlight to see how well it matches. Total different look under flouescent lights. I have done this ( been painting cars off and on for 30 yrs) with good results. Once they stopped the laquer,that ended it for me. I'll let you know how many choices you have tomorrow.
 

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Hmmmmm...

Now I don't really remember, but it seems to me that when I had my rocker redone, the clear coat that was used was exactly that -- a clear coat (without any kind of tint to it). And, it seems to me that I might also have heard that "tinted clear coat" was kind of a misnomer, that there IS an additional step in the painting process of our cars, but there really isn't a "tint" to the clear coat from the factory. Anyone else remember hearing this?

Anyway, my body shop (who, incidentally, I was really worried about being able to match the paint correctly) WAS able to match the paint perfectly given the code(s) listed on the microfiche. And, looking back, I believe that this match was made in the actual PAINT as opposed to being done with any kind of tinted clear coat. But I can try to find out for sure...

-Kirk
 

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MY Advantage

The ones I have seen UP close, don't appear nearly as Orange Peely, as all the other Vette colors.........
Since we all get DIPPED, I guess the clearcoat is superior on the MY's.......one of the reasons for the extra dinero':cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Lots of great feedback! Thanks! :cheers:

I think I'll have the front license plate holder shot first as a test case. If that's ok, I'll have a larger something done. I have a L88 Vette hood from my 73 (454 4 speed, sold it... stupid stupid stupid :( ). That has a bunch of different surface shapes that should give a range to the test. If THAt all looks good then I'll jump into the deep end of the paint pool. :eek:

Thanks again! :guiness:
 

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On Jan 14th the dealer is fixing some rocker panel damage on the drivers side. Said it would take 4 - 5 days since they like the clear coat to set up for at least 24 - 36 hours.

I also requested no paint on any horizontal surface, and they said they would have to feather the paint and clear coat the entire panel in order to match the rest of the car, but they won't have to paint or feather any other panel.

I'll let you know how it turns out..
 

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No alternates

I called one paint supplier today, and they only list one color for the U 423 G paint code. So that is a big plus. I have all my paint work done by a good friend of mine(who has also been in the business for 30+ yrs). He has the latest down=draft spray booth, all HVLP spray guns, etc.There are constant seminars and new materials all the time to match paint ( color and texture/orange peel). Ans as far as letting the clear dry for 24 to 36 hours.....? I don't know what they are using for materials, but with most of todays base coat/clear coat, they turn the heat up in the spraybooth( to about 125 degrees) and it is all "cured" in about 20 minutes. Good luck, and hope all goes well. ;)
 
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