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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What should I look for when considering the purchase of some used CCW race wheels? What are some common problems that I should be concerned about?

Would you go with 17x10 on the front and 17x11 on the rear, or 18x10 on the front and 18X11 on the rear?
 

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Bob said:
What should I look for when considering the purchase of some used CCW race wheels? What are some common problems that I should be concerned about?

Would you go with 17x10 on the front and 17x11 on the rear, or 18x10 on the front and 18X11 on the rear?
Although I've run Kinesis and now the ultralight Kodiaks, I know plenty of folks who run CCWs. They are good wheels, but you need to check the bolt holes for cracks and the center edges...where the bolts are, for cracks too. And obviously you need to make sure the wheels are true (not warped).

Depending on whether or not you plan on going into T1...or any other future plans will most likely determine what size wheels to get. If you plan on putting on monster calipers, you'll have to get the big wheels, but if you're still running stock calipers and may considering coming to T1 with us, get the 17x10s and 17x11s - for several reasons. That's what the T1 guys are all using so they are probably cheaper and more readily avaliable. You can get either new or used racing tires really cheap. And, they are race tested over these past many years and have proven to be fast and bulletproof.

Stick a set of the light 17 inch Kodiaks on there and drive the hell out of it. Come join us!!

Chris
 

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O.K. you two,
Opinions?

I am thinking about doing the following.
an 18x11 front , 17x12.5 back Kodiak
285 Kumho 710 R18, 335 Kumho R17
or
17x11 front, 17x12.5 rear
315 Kumho 710 R17, 335 Kumho R17

Do not want to change to longer studs and do not want a spacer. Just want to bolt rims and take off.

This is behind a 630 h.p. 429.
 

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You shouldn't need a spacer unless you change the brakes. I need a spacer in front to clear front LGM Wilwoods. CCW has some new wheels 1 piece race wheels coming out soon. About 2500 +- or there about in 30-60 days.
I'd do 17x11 and 17x12.5. More tire choices will be out shortly for 18". 18's all around would be my choice Call John Purner at CCW. :guiness: smart has all the answers. I forgot you want Kodiaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
speedpup said:
18" will let you do bigger brakes later. 18 x 11 and 18 x 12 will let you run real slicks or DOT stickies. What are you doing with the car? Look for damage like cracks, bent rims, and leaks on three piece rims.
I am just a DE guy looking to upgrade my wheels and tires in a cost efficient way.
 

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Generally speaking, unless you have a lot of offset, anything bigger than a 315 on back will rub the inner fender well. 17x10F and 17x11R will just bolt straight on with no rubbing or issues.

Another thing to remember about these vettes, bigger tires is not necessarily better (believe it or not). I've tried just about every combo of tire width there is and my numbers have shown the best lap times with the Kumho 275 up front and 315 in back. It's a good compromise between lateral grip and great straight line speed. Bigger tires have more rolling resistance and air resistance. ...just something to keep in mind.
 

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wtknght1 said:
Generally speaking, unless you have a lot of offset, anything bigger than a 315 on back will rub the inner fender well. 17x10F and 17x11R will just bolt straight on with no rubbing or issues.

Another thing to remember about these vettes, bigger tires is not necessarily better (believe it or not). I've tried just about every combo of tire width there is and my numbers have shown the best lap times with the Kumho 275 up front and 315 in back. It's a good compromise between lateral grip and great straight line speed. Bigger tires have more rolling resistance and air resistance. ...just something to keep in mind.
I agree with you on the drag and rolling resistance. I would also agree with bigger is not necessarily better. However, I have 630 h.p. on tap. So I was thinking something like ScottyB's setup 315/335 or LG's 285/335.

Guess my question is for you two, with 200 extra horsepressure would you stay with the 275/315 or go bigger?
 

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2 years ago when it was legal, I ran the 315sF/335R on 10"/11" rims respectively...but I'm not sure it was any quicker. With that much HP on tap, you could very well need not only bigger tires, but also much more braking power.

If you have the money, you would probably look at going to 18s with as much rubber as will fit on it...and upgrade the brakes to 4 or 6 piston ALCON/Brembo, etc. The 17" rims are for those on a budget because all the T1 guys have them and used stuff is readily available as are used tires and brakes. With no budget restrictions and that much power on tap, you'll almost certainly trash the stock brakes quickly and will need to upgrade to 18s and big calipers.

If you just plan on doing 2-4 events per year, and are thinking budget, do the 17s (275/315 combo). If 5-15 events per year and the budget it open, then go BIG...and don't forget the brakes!

Oh one last thing. Even with just about 370 to the rear wheels, I still have to keep the power oversteer in check to keep from burning up the rear tires during a race. With over 500 to the rear, you are really gonna hafta be easy with the throttle or else you'll cook the rears off within 3 laps.
 

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I like the idea of cheap 17's.
But I like the idea 18's as well.
Kuhmo's are supposed to be the fastest tire, but only in 17's

On my current Zee have DRM ducts, hoses, Spindel duct holders, Stainless Piston and Lines, Motul 600, KVP Pads, 996 Porsche 13" Rotors. Hoping those will go a full season of D.E. events.

Planning on up grading the whole car here shortly with a C6 Z06 friend. lol

The Best Master Plan would be 18's that would fit a C5 Z06 no spacer and a C6 Z06 no spacer.

What is good in 18 tires and where to get them cheap?
 

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If you find a set, and you want to buy them and you're unsure as to their structural integrity, send them to John @ CCW in Daytona Beach for a thorough inspection.
Better yet, after the recent sportscar season, there, call him as HE may have some slightly used ones that will be worth investing in...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
PowerPro01 said:
If you find a set, and you want to buy them and you're unsure as to their structural integrity, send them to John @ CCW in Daytona Beach for a thorough inspection.
Better yet, after the recent sportscar season, there, call him as HE may have some slightly used ones that will be worth investing in...

Thanks for the suggestion. I will give John a call.
 

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Bob,
There is vendor here that did many T-1 cars as well. Apparently they have quite a few used ones in their shop. I cannot remember the vendors name for the life of me. Check the parts/sale section.
GR
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
wtknght1 said:
Generally speaking, unless you have a lot of offset, anything bigger than a 315 on back will rub the inner fender well. 17x10F and 17x11R will just bolt straight on with no rubbing or issues.

Another thing to remember about these vettes, bigger tires is not necessarily better (believe it or not). I've tried just about every combo of tire width there is and my numbers have shown the best lap times with the Kumho 275 up front and 315 in back. It's a good compromise between lateral grip and great straight line speed. Bigger tires have more rolling resistance and air resistance. ...just something to keep in mind.
What size wheels have you found to be the most effective?
 
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