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Hi guys... well my Z-06's clutch has finally died...

Is the new '02 Z-06 Clutch the standard part #? Or would the dealer install an '01 clutch in an '01, and an '02 Z-06 clutch only in an '02?

Has the '01 Z-06 clutch part # been superceded by the newer/stronger '02?

What are the part#'s... and pricing/availablity?

Thanks!

Dave Schotz
 

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If you fried your stock clutch...why put another stock one in? I would recommend dumping another $200 and putting in a Spec stage 2 or 3 in it....

 

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Dave, If it's warranty work, the dealer will install an 01 clutch in your 01. If you are paying for the clutch and install, you ought to consider an aftermarket clutch.

Whatever you decide to do, the installation is crucial, particularly the transfer of the weights from the original to the new flywheel; and positioning the new flywheel in the exact relative position as the original. The procedure is covered in the shop manual under "flywheel REMOVAL"but omitted from, and not cross-referenced in, the section on clutch REPLACEMENT. A confusing shop manual index further complicates the problem. Many techs do not know to transfer the weights or maintain the correct before- and after- flywheel orientation. Result is often significant vibration. Once the correct position of the weights is lost, the engine will vibrate and it can't easily be fixed. That's why I say the install is crucial.

There also is an apparent issue with getting the engagement point for the clutch pedal on the new clutch to remain consistent with your original clutch. My original began engagement 2-3 inches off the floor. Right where I like it. My new clutch begins to engage a half inch off the floor. My tech insists there is no adjustment to the engagement point and that I will just have to get used to it. I'm not happy and am looking for alternatives. Perhaps someone has advice.

Ranger
 

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There isn't an adjustable "engagement point" - it's all hydraulic through the master then the slave...You can get an aftermarket adjustable master from McCleod, not much success at it being any better than stock, however.

A point which needs to be made...the condition of the fluid in the system will greatly vary the engagement point...bleed the clutch every 5-7000 miles for optimum performance and life out of the clutch, even more so if you race the car (drag or autox).

In each of these clutches (they are the exact same in the Fbody's) that I've had, I would bleed the clutch and the engagement point would be altered, simply because fresh fluid, no air, etc...

Bleed those clutches! :D

:cheers:
 

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TAMUz06 said:
....I would bleed the clutch and the engagement point would be altered, simply because fresh fluid, no air, etc...

Bleed those clutches!
Thanks for the advice.

Presumably it's heat that turns the clutch fluid brown and funky (the black oily crap in the reservoir) Is the heat from drag racing sufficient to warrant running a DOT-4 vice DOT-3 brake fluid in the clutch??

Thanks in advance,

Ranger
 

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Yes, heat, etc... will do that...The heat mainly can cause the fluid to boil, at which point you'll get air in the lines, spongy pedal, pedal sticking to the floor, and notchy shifts are indicative of this. I've always used Valvoline DOT 3/4 synthetic brake fluid...this stuff:

http://www.valvoline.com/products/products.asp?cat=2&Product=48

:cheers:
 
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