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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I have a 2 1/2 ton jack at home that I used on my trucks and wondered if I could use it on the Z06. Bear in mind I have Penske/Mallett shocks and it is lowered 1 1/2". So not much clearance. I also autocross and frequently change tires sometimes 4 times a weekend from streets to slicks possibly to rains and back again. Previous to the season I bought one of those Corvette jack adaptors.

Anyway I found that I couldn't get the jack under the car with the adapter. In fact I couldn't get the jack (3 1/2" down height) under the car at all. I removed the front roller wheels, Corvette adapter and the stock jack pad and was able to slide it under the rear and approximate the rear jacking point, but still could not even get near the front point. I couldn't get past the front air dam and couldn't reach it from the side. What to do?.

I ruled out a light weight Longacre NASCAR jack at $750 to $1300; depending whether you want to pump it three times or once, respectively. I also saw a reference on this board for a Ferrari jack from I think "Jack Pro" for around $350. I will probably invest inone of those 3 jacks before next season.

In the mean time a fellow racer showed me a little jacking trick. There is a metal stiffener that runs from the center of the car to the rocker panel just behind the rear view mirror. It ends in agussetted plat just inside the rocker panel attachments. If you are careful as I am, you can center the jack pad in the middle of this gusset plate and lift both side wheels off at a time, ala a NASCAR pit stop! This saves a tremendous amount of time.

Some rules of engagement need to be followed however.

1 Have all tools and replacement wheels and tires ready before you jack.
2. Car in gear. Emergency Brake ON, opposite side wheels chocked. (I have the front roller/wheels removed from the jack, so it is resting firmly on the pavement.) Must be a dry, hard and level surface, concrete or asphalt.
3. I make contact between the jack and the gusset plate then crack all nuts front and rear, then jack up quickly only 1" MAX. This will bring both wheels of aside off the pavement.

CAUTION: DO NOT JACK ANY HIGHER, DO NOT GET UNDER CAR. DO NOT LET ANY BODY PART (YOURS) GET BETWEEN GROUND AND CAR (SUCH AS YOUR FOOT UNDER THE ROTOR). DO NOT TURN STEERING WHEEL.

4. Quickly back off front lugs. I use a 24v. Cordless Dewalt drill. wheel off, wheel on quickly. Reset lugs with cordless drill to snug, centering all nuts. (I ONLY HAVE 1 WHEEL OFF AT A TIME FOR ONLY A SPLIT SECOND.)
5. Repeat on rear wheel
6. Snug all bolts rear/front to 30/60 ft lbs.
7. Slowly lower car. Retorque all lugs up to factory or racing specs (at least 90 ft/lbs)
8. Go to other side and repeat. Don't forget to rechock the opposite side before jacking.
9. Use this technique ONLY to quick change tires. DO NOT use for any other type of work such as brake repair or suspension adjustment.
10. Be Careful. DO NOT let anybody near the car while you are doing this.
11. I do not endorse or suggest anyone use this method. This method may be inheirantly dangerous and may cause painful and permanent bodily injury, disfigurement, dismemberment, blindness, paralysis and death. This method may cause damage to your vehicle. I express no warranty or approval of this method. Use at your own risk! Always have a safety person near by.

I can change 4 tires in just under 10 minutes. Not quite as fast as NASCAR but I am faster than the 2 technicians with a rack and air tools at the local tire store. Takes them an hour.
 

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Had trouble jacking my 2000, as it was lowered. I took 2 pieces of 2x6 about 1-2 feet long. Took one edge and gave it a 45 deg. cut. Now I would drive one side of the car onto these short planks. That got me the height I needed.
Also used the rear jacking hole to raise the whole side of the car to change both tires on that particular side. Think the front hole will do the same job.
Bob
 

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I just use a scissor jack on one front side at the jacking pad...takes about 5 turns to get the front cross member high enough to get a floor jack under it....do the same for the back...takes about 1 minute longer in the front and back than just sliding the floor jack straight in there.....that's just me though :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Beutiful lift but....

....I need to change the tires not the oil. Plus I would need an extra trailer to drag that around the country to various autocrosses. I want one though for the garage.
 

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I need to change the tires not the oil. Plus I would need an extra trailer to drag that around the country to various autocrosses. I want one though for the garage.
I agree about the requirement for being able to drop the wheels to do brake work, etc.

I was thinking that some of the wheel lift based systems would allow you to lift the car by the wheels and then lower the car onto jack stands.

For some reason, I'm just not that interested in the over-under parking, though I could use the space. Just doesn't seem natural.. Maybe it's the strong potential for earthquakes in Seattle.

The ceiling height in my current garage is fine, but the garage doors are a little low when open. So that is a challenge in finding the perfect lift..
 

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IMA ... I agree .. my Kwiklift is on the way .. same color, too. I just couldn't get comfortable with the idea of jackstands to get the car in the air.
 

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IMA, I've been checking that out.. Thanks. I *love* how it matches the MY!

I was thinking I wanted a lift that went higher, but maybe that would be a good solution for now..

How long does it take to go up (not a major decision point, just curious)?
 

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BrianK


Brian for the price and convience i find it invaluable, but im also space restricted. Only single car garage.

Not sure what you mean, how long to go up, i have a nascar type flr jack and its up in 3 pumps if thats what you mean.............

:cheers:
 
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