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Discussion Starter #1
Lowering the Z today...one of the "points" in the bolt cracked off when using the torx head to hold the bolt...now it's stripped. Obviously can't get the nut off the top while the bolt turns with it.

How is this removed/replaced? I would imagine I can just cut the nut off, but that leaves me with having to hold the bolt still while trying to torque the new nut on to it.

Any ideas? Anyone have to replace this bolt before?


:mad:
 

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Someone else had this happen recently......try searching for it.....

If not, join in on our chat session tonight at 10Eastern or someone will surely post here.....

JC
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply, and I found that guys thread...I could remove the upper from the frame, though the problem remains that I have the nut loosened just a LITTLE bit already, and have no way to torque the nut back onto it...I hope there is a way to replace that bolt without having to replace the whole lower a-arm. I have a hookup for warranty work, but I hate letting the damn monkeys at the dealership touch my cars...:p
 

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Me too ...

That was me. I still have the problem. I had it tightened by a dealer, not sure what they did. I still hear a noise when hitting larger bumps in the road. I went to the parts counter, the ball joint and A-arm are sold together, $165.00.
I just had it aligned, so I guess I have to get the new A-arm and have it aligned again. :(
I don't know how to get the nut loose/off or on/tight after the Torx socket is stripped. Maybe c4c5 could give some advice, please???
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It's only $165 for a new lower?!? :eek: :eek: :eek: I'd have thought it would be about $300 the way GM likes to gouge on stock parts...:p
 

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Many times if you can get enough pressure on the lower control arm(pushing down), the nut will tighten without the bolt turning.
Spray lubricant on the threads and try to get as much pressure against the nut as you can. Then just torque it to specs.
I have done it.

You might be able to drive a one size larger torx bit into the stripped hole enough to bite so you can tighten the nut.

I think one of these will work.
 

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After reading that a few people have had this problem.. Are there any specific suggestions on how others can avoid this problem when they do the work?? Was your Torx worn before it stripped?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the replies...

...I tried hammering in a larger torx bit...to no avail, the next size up is too big...

I can try to push down on the arm, not sure how much good that will do though, I think I'm just going to buy a new arm/bolt...and cut off the existing one. :puke:
 

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Don't give up on hammering in a larger size torx.

They're only $6. Try grinding the larger one down just a little until it can be hammered in.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I dropped $180 on a new a arm...I'll bust my knuckles trying to hack off that bolt that's on there now with a hack saw...hmm..maybe I'll break out the recip...:p

thank's for the advice....I will go ahead and try to hammer in the other torx socket prior to actually using the new a arm.
 

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You're welcome.. I've been there. I hate Torx fasteners.

I once had a situation on a Mustang where the inner sleeves of the control arm bushings had rusted to the bolts.

I couldn't pound'em, pry'em, pull'em or cut them out. Of course they were hardened bolts - I broke a fair number of Sawzall blades trying.. It was too tight to get a die-grinder in there.

I ended up getting a Great deal on a newer K-member with bigger brakes, arms, etc for only $200. I was a good decision.

But to this day it pains me that I failed in getting the bolts out (there were *FOUR* in that condition!!).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Interesting to note...when I picked up the new a-arm...the bolt is a hex, not a torx....hmm....
 
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