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I got the B&M Ripper shifter for the '97-'00 Corvettes in the mail today. I payed $174.99 thinking I had done all my homework and found the cheapest and then find it for $160. Damn!

Anyway mine does not have the adjustable stops on it. I know they used to provide them for the C5 shifters as the pics on websites show them and talk about it. Now I know that they had the adjustable stops on the Ripper shifters for the T-56 in the 4th gen F-bodys, but eventually they put an addendum in there saying that internal rail transmissions cannot be "over shifted" and therefore the shift stops were not neccessary. I had mine adjusted correctly for my driving style, but tried it out when I installed a friends Ripper. We left the shift stops out and I was grinding gears on my hard power shifts (I'm 6'5" and 290 lbs). I installed the shift stops and the grinding went away.

So I guess I'm asking those of you with Ripper's for the C5... Did yours come with the adjustable shift stops and when did you get yours?
 

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Nope, no more stops.. Hell, this thing doesn't need any adjustment in the stops department anyway. It's crsip and short. How else would you have it?! :D

-Kirk
 

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SteveYelloZ06 said:
can someone tell me if it is hard to install the ripper. Did you do it yourself???
Steve... really easy install!

I did mine myself without even removing the console cover... :)

Even the dreaded pin that locks the knob out came right out for me with one swift tug.

Total time, start to finish, 30 minutes. :eek:

I installed mine a few days ago and it was like getting a new Z all over again. :D

Good luck!
 

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AgentZ06 -- how do you do it without taking the console cover? Does the shifter boot come off somehow with the console in place??
 

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ZEE- Yes, the outer boot snaps right out.

The inner boot under that is attached by 3 or 4 bolts and then the shifter itself is secured with 4 bolts.

I just tried it without removing the console for two reasons:

1. I didn't wanna develop any squeaks or rattles by removing the whole center console and putting it back on.

2. To save time... I couldn't wait to get the Ripper in :D

You don't have to torque either the shifter or the boot that much although it does take a steady hand to get the boot back around the shifter correctly.

I suggest a portable magnet to pick up the bolts/ nuts you may drop while completing this task. :)

Overall... a really easy install and no squeaks or rattles! 8)
 

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Be VERY careful taking the hardware out, we dropped a bolt right down into the tunnel :eek: :eek:

Was a B&*&( to get out.......

JC
 

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Easy install took about an hour. The only tools required was a 10mm socket, 7/16 socket, 1/4 drive ratchet at torx bit, and some lock tight. The hardest part was getting the damn pin out of shifter handle. I ended up with vice grips on the pin and a plastic headed hammer to tap on the grips until the pin moved.

I ordered a Hurst (old habits die hard) from summit racing, but they couldn't get one (first time ever they unable to get a part for me). So I swapped for a Ripper. We have a Club Clash in two weeks, and I have a tankfull of SUNOCO Race gas. The old shifter sucked really bad, 1-2-5 will add a full second to your 1/4 times.
 
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