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Discussion Starter #1
I've been running my Z at a local 1.7 Mile road course. I've now accumlated approx. 8 hours of hard track time. The Z has held up very well I'd say except for the rotor hats. I've completely cooked the black paint off of them, now I have a nice bright orange rust color where once was the cool black. I've talked to others who have pulled the rotors and painted the hats, but the feedback I get is that it is probably gonna just peel off again....so I'm looking for some more durable replacements. The rotor surfaces themselves are fine, this is purely a cosmetic problem. I just hate seeing my Z look like a rust-bucket. Anyone got some good suggestions on replacements that will take track abuse and still look good??
 

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DONOT CHUCKLE!! i USE WOOD STOVE PAINT,SAME ON EXHAUST SYSTEM-DULL BLACK THAT DOES NOT FLAKE AND CHIP LIKE A LOT OF HIGH HEAT ENGINE PAINT APPLICATIONS
 

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Painting rotor hats

I painted my rotor hats red last Spring with highr temp (1200 degree) paint. It matched fairly well. But I thought after a hard season of autocross that I had vaporized the paint off the fronts/. The rears still look great.

Just so happens that I had the car up today and removed all the wheels to inspect the lines and clean the wheel wells and suspension before putting it to bed for the Winter. As I was spraying brake cleaner on the front the red began tp reappear!. Apparently under heavy braking and high temps the brake dust formed a perfectly finished ceramic coating over the paint. I used a little wheel cleaner and all the baked on brake dust has been removed. Front hats are red and good as when I painted them last spring.

Sorry for the initial misinformation about the paint vaporizing on the fronts.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanx for the suggestions guys, I'll check into some of that...although I think that I am leaning toward replacing the rotors alltogether with something that has a little more durable finish. I think I'm down to the DuraStop rotor that Delco is putting out...it looks to have a solid rotor hat that is not painted. I'm also looking into the Baer Eradispeed rotors. These use an aluminum hat that I think will last a little longer under the high heat. I don't really expect any gains from swapping the rotors, maybe a little weight loss with the Baer's...but I'm still checking to make sure the performance will not decrease! Last thing I wanna do is make things worse. Both the rotors I have mentioned are slotted and cross drilled...which everything I have found says is more cosmetic these days than anything. It seems to depend on whether or not the pad outgasses a lot under high heat. Anyhow...I'll let ya'll know how it goes. Any opinions on this stuff are welcome....
 

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IMO if you want a decent vette rotor, DO NOT go with the Bear Eradispeeds....I've read many times about them cracking under track use. Cross drilling seems to be a bad thing for the vette on the track. Check with Dave Farmer - he runs some of the other rotors (GM just came out with some new ones) that are slotted but not cross drilled.
 

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I have....

not had any problems with my stock rotors. I took them off when brand new and had them cryo'd. I've Autox'd heavily this summer and SoloI'd the car a couple of times. No cracks or abnormal wear. Stopping power has been consistant with no fade at all.

Ultimate stock set up would be:

Fluid = AP600, bleed system AND ABS with Tech II.
Lines = Goodridge SS
Rotors = Stock Z06 cryogenic treated
Pads = Mallet Gold Road Race (front), Mallett Silver AutoX (rear)
Caliper Pistons = Rippie SS or Mallett Titanium
 

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Ultimate stock set up would be:

Fluid = AP600, bleed system AND ABS with Tech II.

Pads = Mallet Gold Road Race (front), Mallett Silver AutoX (rear)
I have to disagree on the AP600 for street. Those race fluids are extremely hydroscopic. They sacrifice stability in exchange for the high initial BP. That high BP can drop off below the performance of a good conventional fluid. They're great at the track, but even at the track, not everyone will need them.

The worst thing would be to put the high BP stuff in and then think you won't have to flush your brake system again for the next event. *fresh* is more important than the fluid rating.

The Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 fluid is the ticket for the street. The LMA GT and other 'regular' fluids just don't compare. When fresh, the Ford fluid is Very good and holds a respectable BP for quite some time.

As to pads, I generally won't use re-branded pads. To my knowledge, Mallet does not produce pads. They are purchased from someone and re-branded. What pad compound are they providing?

Not all pad compounds are available for the C5 caliper. Mallet may be contracting someone to attach an otherwise unavailable compound to the C5 pad backing plates. If so, that's *awesome*. But I still wonder what the compound is.

In the past, I have seen other suppliers who provide re-branded pads substitute a different pad compound without changing the 'name' or telling anyone (or maybe they didn't know themselves).

This can come as a shock to the guy who thought he had the same pads as the last time he went to Thunderhill.. He hits the track, the pads fall to pieces, and he has a lousy weekend beause he spent much of his time driving between auto stores looking for new stock pads.

I am certainly not saying this will happen with Mallet. Just that I have seen it happen in the past with other suppliers.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Once again, thanx for all the input...based on what has been said here and what I've been getting from others I'm thinking about these basic mods:

1. Flush the system completely, ABS also if I can find someone to do it.

2. Replace fluid with ATE "Super Blue" or the like. The Castrol SRF is way more expensive and likely overkill it sounds for my application (light/moderate road racing); especially in light of the fact that I should be changing the stuff out fairly regularly.

3. Replace OEM rotors (F/R) with BAER Enhanced - Zinc washed and Slotted version. Staying away from the cross-drilling...The only "look" I'm after is the non-rusted one.

4. Replace the OEM pads (F/R) with Hawk HP+

Sticking with the OEM lines for now.
Sticking with the OEM pistons as well.

BTW - The rotors I've looked at so far:

Baer Eradispeed, Durastop (The new cross drilled/slotted OEM replacements), Dilusi motorsports (www.dilusi.com) Dave Tittle makes some great stuff by all accounts. Powerslot, slotted rotors.
 

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Doug Rippie sells Rotors and hats too!! dont know much about them but. But its worth a shot to check out. What ever you buy let us know how they work. I have also used the ford fluid and it is top notch. Steel braided lines will give you some better feed back but are not required. But its no fun to blow a rubber one out. Pedal goes to the floor, brake fluid catches on fire (trust me I not a good feeling) but this is rare and really depends on how hard you are on the brakes and how hard the track is on the brakes. If you are just autoX'n dont worry about it but if you are running on a road course you may think about it. Good luck

:guiness:
 
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