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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone,

I've been trying to take care of the light scratches that have appeared quite numerously in my black z. I'm not sure of the correct term to use for these scratches (light scratches or spiderwebbing or swirl marks). They apear as light scratches and most of them are in a circular type arrangement. They are not very deep (can't feel with a finger nail), but they are numerous. They are a result of poor washing and polishing techniques that I have since corrected, but now I'm trying to repair the clearcoat. I've washed with dawn, clay bared, and applied a coat of 3m product 39009. The 'scratches' seemed to have been hidden slightly, but are still rather noticable.
My question is, should I apply multiple coats of the 3m 39009, should I now move into Zainoing the car ( z1, z5, z2), or if being what I've already done has not taken care of the scratch/swirl/spiderweb problems should I seek out a professional detailers help. (I am rather new to proper car care). Any suggestions would be very appreciated.
Thanks
Ted
 

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Ted, I would recommend you pick up a good orbital buffer and go to work with a good scratch remover. Always make sure to use high quality towels/rags on the car as well as a good detailing spray. I never dry wash or rub my black paint unless I have a ton of detailing spray and some good microfiber with me.

I use a 215 mph leaf blower to get the car dry after washing, and I use a lot of car wash formula to make sure the surface of the paint is well lubed when being washed.
 

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I had your same problem with scratches. I broke down & took it to a guy who builds custom hot rods so needless to say does a lot of paint & body work. They buffed out the scratches (which were prob. a lot deeper than the ones you have) & I then followed behind with Meguiars swirl remover to eliminate the swirl marks left by the buffer. I did this by hand as opposed to an orbital buffer as I was afraid to put more swirls in with the buffer. Hope this helps.
 

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Unless your are an expert with a buffer you may do more harm than good. Take to an expert and have him fix your scratches. :cheers:
 

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I would agree that it's important to understand the difference between scratches you can remove by hand or with a D/A, and those that need a Rotary Polisher. Some deep swirls and scratches can be hidden, but not removed by hand. C5 and C6 clear coat finishes are are a tough one to remove serious scratches with by hand. Using a high-speed buffer and a yellow foam pad is often the only way to completely remove scratches and deep swirls, as it requires heat to cut the clear-coat down the the level of the scratches. Surface scratches (scuffs or other surface scratches) can be removed by hand. Swirls and actual cuts in the clear coat can only be minimized by hand. 'Removing scratches' means essentially, reducing the area around the scratch to the level of the scratch so that it's no longer visible, nor existent.

Too much information? Sorry! I answer questions like these often, and like to shoot straight. Please email me if you would like a "101 Buffing Class." I'll do my best to educate thoroughly.

-Adam
 

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Adam said:
I would agree that it's important to understand the difference between scratches you can remove by hand or with a D/A, and those that need a Rotary Polisher. Some deep swirls and scratches can be hidden, but not removed by hand. C5 and C6 clear coat finishes are are a tough one to remove serious scratches with by hand. Using a high-speed buffer and a yellow foam pad is often the only way to completely remove scratches and deep swirls, as it requires heat to cut the clear-coat down the the level of the scratches. Surface scratches (scuffs or other surface scratches) can be removed by hand. Swirls and actual cuts in the clear coat can only be minimized by hand. 'Removing scratches' means essentially, reducing the area around the scratch to the level of the scratch so that it's no longer visible, nor existent.

Too much information? Sorry! I answer questions like these often, and like to shoot straight. Please email me if you would like a "101 Buffing Class." I'll do my best to educate thoroughly.

-Adam
Adam,

Thanks for the expanded detail on buffing. I know a D/A polisher is less aggressive than a Rotary. How effective is a D/A at removing flaws and what is a D/A's main use? I have a PC D/A and have used it to remove light surface defects. I for one would welcome any input you have on detailing given your vast experience.

D.J. :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
 

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Whats D/A? I understand "orbital" and "rotary" but not D/A.

Thanks.

Also, stiffer buffing pad ( the stiffer foam pad is not always the same color depending where you buy it) will help the polish cut deeper into the clear coat when attempting to removing scratches. Deep scratches can be removed by wet sanding if you find that orbital buffing and polishes aren't aggressive enough.
 

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Have polished cars for over forty years. Buy a super quality buffer.

Griots in Seattle has the best buffer. Use 3M polish for dark colors, car will look near new.
Its easy and you cannot damage the paint using this buffer and the recommened polishing pads. 96-tom
 

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You said you use Dawn to wash your car. If dawn is your wife or girl friend o.k. If its the soap for dishes, use it only for dishes. It will cause problems for your paint. 96 tom
 

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Zrod said:
Whats D/A? I understand "orbital" and "rotary" but not D/A.

Thanks.

Also, stiffer buffing pad ( the stiffer foam pad is not always the same color depending where you buy it) will help the polish cut deeper into the clear coat when attempting to removing scratches. Deep scratches can be removed by wet sanding if you find that orbital buffing and polishes aren't aggressive enough.
Dual Action. Random Orbital or two actions. That's just a designation I give it. Like a D/A sander. Looks like Adam calls it a D/A too. Call it what you want.
 
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