[Rupertpupkin]

SCS came on again last night after swapping the alternator a couple of weeks ago. Battery was replaced in Feb, so I doubt it could be that, but I need to test it again. The Z however, has been having trouble turning over the past week or 2. Sometimes it would take 2-3 times until she fires up. I'm assuming it could be the battery that's not holding the charge.

Here's the sequence.
Clutch in, push the start button and nothing. Only clicking.
Clutch in again, push the start button and the engine would turn over slowly.
Idles fine, SCS comes on, and the volt meter on the dash would read 12v.
Turn on the heated seats/rear defroster/heater...and would see the voltage go down.
5 minutes later, the voltage would go to 14v and hold steady. SCS is gone.

Thoughts? You guys think it could be the battery this time? I haven't been hooking it up to a battery tender ever since the temps have dropped here in Chicago. Could that be the reason?

 

[JBsZ06]

Can't say for sure about your car but my car had the same experience and dic message (the battery tested fine on a Friday and Saturday it crapped out completely)replaced the 24 month old battery that had a 42 month warranty...

No problems after that...

My recommendation is to change battery as a first step....c6 s talks to itself while off....and npp M2w does a slow drain as well...

I have 81k miles on my c6 and every two years it seems my battery takes a dump...so I'm on my 4th battery (42 month) and only usually lasts around 24 to 27 months...

For a hundred bucks or so.....battery replacement would be the first step...imo

 

[eagle7175]

temps in northern il are certainly getting colder, soon i will put my Z away for the winter. anyway i would do the following.

1. fully charge battery, should be around 13.5-14.0 volts fully charged.
2. once charged then check individual battery cell specific gravity. ( this will tell true condition of each battery cell, 6 cells at 2.2 volts = 13.2 vdc). allow battery to cool after charging.
3. The following shows the approximate state of charge at various specific gravities at 77ºF / 25ºC.
Charged Specific Gravity
100% 1.265-1.275
75% 1.225-1.235
50% 1.190-1.200
25% 1.155-1.165
0% 1.120-1.130
4. if battery doesn't show any bad cells (all should be approximately the same, if not then = replace battery)
5. if battery is okay then move on to troubleshooting charging system (alt, voltage regulator, etc......)
6. also check all connections for battery and alt, sometimes a loose or corroded connection can cause hard to understand problems.
7. alt should be tested at full load, lots of ways to do this but easiest is to remove and take to most any major auto parts store who can test it, usually for free.

good luck and enjoy what time on the road we have left this year.

 

[jub jub]

You have to keep a tender on the C6 if don't drive it enough. They will drain in 2 weeks time.

Also, plug the tender into a high quality surge protector. It might help save you costly repairs in the future.

 

[Rupertpupkin]

Im just tempted to change the battery since its only 6 months old. Checked the voltage this morning and it was around 11v.

 

[przyojski]

Hey man, I had similar problem and it was my starter that was bad. Sometimes it would act dead then I'd (weird I know) pump the clutch and it'd start. I would push the start button and nothing but a click other times. Starter and alternator went out together in my case. Thing was all burned up.

 

[przyojski]

Just re-read op's post and I really think it's the starter.

 

[fcar]

My 02 won't function with the battery under 12-12.5.even though the parts guys/gals
want you to take it home 'cause it's "fresh". Most are unhappy when you ask them to
load-test a "fresh" one.

 

[przyojski]

Can't say for sure about your car but my car had the same experience and dic message (the battery tested fine on a Friday and Saturday it crapped out completely)replaced the 24 month old battery that had a 42 month warranty...

No problems after that...

My recommendation is to change battery as a first step....c6 s talks to itself while off....and npp M2w does a slow drain as well...

I have 81k miles on my c6 and every two years it seems my battery takes a dump...so I'm on my 4th battery (42 month) and only usually lasts around 24 to 27 months...

For a hundred bucks or so.....battery replacement would be the first step...imo

Off topic but do you experience much oil consumption w 81k on your car? Is it modded?

 

[seamus2154]

As Jub said depending on the amount of time it sits, the C6Z drains quick. I have owned two of them and they must be on a battery tender or about two weeks even less and I am clicking or dead.

 

[MikesZ06]

As Jub said depending on the amount of time it sits, the C6Z drains quick. I have owned two of them and they must be on a battery tender or about two weeks even less and I am clicking or dead.

Hate to say it but that's been my experience as well.

Mike

 

[Rupertpupkin]

Ive been driving the car every other day, but its been having issues. If there was an issue with the starter, would that cause the V meter on the dash to read low? Im assuming it shouldn't.

 

[przyojski]

Ive been driving the car every other day, but its been having issues. If there was an issue with the starter, would that cause the V meter on the dash to read low? Im assuming it shouldn't.

My alternator was replaced at the same time as my starter in that case, so it's hard for me to separate the two issues. My voltage was a little low but never low enough that it should've failed to start.
I noticed symptoms like it rolling slowly (full charge or not sometimes it rolled slower than it should've), wouldn't try to start, etc.
Can always start w a visuals inspection, look at mine...

 

[Rupertpupkin]

Its been starting fine now, but I haven't replaced anything. Does stay at 11v for the first 2-3 minutes then jumps to 14.

 

[przyojski]

Its been starting fine now, but I haven't replaced anything. Does stay at 11v for the first 2-3 minutes then jumps to 14.

Keep us posted if anything changes! Glad it's working now.:cheers:

 

[przyojski]

Its been starting fine now, but I haven't replaced anything. Does stay at 11v for the first 2-3 minutes then jumps to 14.

Btw when my alternator was bad my running volts were mid 13s. So thumbs up on the 14s, sounds like your charging fine.

 

[jub jub]

Its been starting fine now, but I haven't replaced anything. Does stay at 11v for the first 2-3 minutes then jumps to 14.

That's not normal. Have you checked your ground connections and the B+ connection at the starter?

 

[Rupertpupkin]

Keep us posted if anything changes! Glad it's working now.:cheers:

I wouldn't necessarily say its working fine. Im swapping out the alternator today, and hopefully that'll TRULY fix it.

If the wire going to the starter is fried in any way, would that cause the service charging fault?

 

[Rupertpupkin]

UPDATE

Took the alternator and got it bench tested before I swapped it out, and it passed. Reintsalled it on the car and load tested everything. Voltage was reading 14.23+- via volt meter. Load tested everything multiple times, and it held the voltage. Tested the battery prior to everything, and it held a charge of 12.7+-.

 

[Bluby]

Hi all, I Just picked up my C6 Z06 last weekend and then suddenly I started getting the "service charging system" warning on the dashboard, I noticed while driving the car the voltage goes to 14V then at idle it drops to 13.5, if I turn on the AC at idle it will drop to 12.3V then I drive with ac on goes to 13.9. so I ordered the alternator and just picked up the battery. will change the battery in a few minutes and will see how the voltage reading goes. if you guys have any advice please let me know. I read all of the prior messages and looks like when that message comes up is not certain what it really is. I think on mine the alternator is bad because of the voltage at idle and extra load changes. its my first vette and im used to My old 1990 celica. I have a lot to learn on this beauty.

Thanks.