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What is the most you should drop your Z, with only factory settings and not run into hitting the bump stops or whatever they call them on the video?
 

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Lowering a Z won't increase corning g's. More for looks.
You really need to get the camber at around -2.5 to notice
a big difference on a track. Plus in L.V. there are just to
many speed bumps to get hung up on.
 

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I'm down 2" and did it for the looks, and it can't hurt having a lower center of gravity.

Most speed bumps are not a problem, but you constantly need to be careful going into driveways. Always drive slow and enter at a 45 degree angle. Don't let people behind you rush you. They can wait for a few seconds......

If you go this route, get some "Frame Savers" and "Rocker Rollers" to protect the bottom front and sides of the car.

I bought Mr. Goodwrench some 2"x 12" boards to make some basic ramps to help get my car on his lift.

If I ever need a Tow, it's gonna be interesting:(

But, I hate the 4x4 look and would do it again in a heartbeat :D

:cheers:
Barrie
 

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I too, lowered 2 inches. I used 7 inch bolts in the back and cut the bushing in the front. The front is a little more harsh, still seems to handle excellent and it doesn't look like a 4x4 now!:D
Also, I have some frame savers for sale. Cheap! You can check them out here.
Frame savers
 

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Frank,

Ditto.....longer rear bolts and cut the bushings. I didn't notice any harshness. If it's there, it's very mild. If you decide to try this on one of your Z's, don't forget to get the alignment adjusted. My Mr. Goodwrench also had some machining done to the spot where the front bushing sits on the spring. Spring was removed and went to a machine shop. If you're interested, I can get more info on the why and how of doing this.

Also, frame savers can do just that, save your front frame should you have a sudden drop and a quick rise on entering a driveway. Andy Green of A&A had that happen to him and it cost several hundred $$ to fix. Sooooo, he invented the Frame Saver. Eckler's sells a "ski" type devise that does the same thing, but it grinds where you hear nothing with the little wheels. You can only see 'em if you get down on your hands and knees. When you do see them they look "trick."

The Rocker Rails amount to a 7/8" strip of T6061 Aluminum that runs under the Rockers facing straight down and running almost the entire length from the front wheel the rear wheel. It sticks out about 1/8" and takes any brunt force, rather than your rockers. Andy also crerated this product. He said he's never had a Corvette, lowered or not, on his lift that didn't have Rocker damage. Wife and I went to Solvang on a Club Run and as we entered the steep driveway and the front wheel took a downward slope one side of the car was riding on the Rocker Rails. Terrible sound, but no damage to the Rockers!!

HTH,
Barrie
 

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If I only go 1 inch do I need longer bolts and cut bushings??

Also would I need to do an alignment with a 1 inch drop??

Thanks guys, Mac
 

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MACZ06,

I'm pretty sure you'll need lowering bolts and you'll need to cut the bushing up front to get 1". By turning the stock bolts you can only get about 3/4" drop, if that.

It's always recommended that you have the alignment checked when doing any lowering :)

:cheers:
Barrie
 

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"Praise the Lowred"

I removed my front bolts and cut the 3/4 in plastic/hard rubber bushing off the bottom of it. In the rear, I took the bushings out(all 4) and cut 1 section off of each. Car rides perfect. The only thing that hits is the front air dam( and it hits every where!) I did install frame savers, but have not touched them as of yet. I love the way it looks lowered. And it can't handle any worse being lowered( Look at the C5-Rs:eek:). And as far as aligning the frt and rear end, I waited a week for it to "settle" and the alignment was not that far off, and lined up to the specs( recomended from this site) with no problems. Good luck, and "Get Down". ;)
 
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