Corvette Z06 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,383 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Pulling the trigger on the following today:

G5X-3 112 cam
AFR 205's milled to 59cc
flycutting pistons
LSX 90mm and NW TB
ATI underdrive pulley/damper
JWIS timing chain
Installation and tuning by Norris Motorsports

Already have LG headers and Vortex intake. Any other "while they're in there" stuff? ARP head studs? Key the crank for the pulley? FYI, my car is pretty much track-only (road race) so daily driveability is a non-issue.

Thanks guys. :z:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,744 Posts
Great combo. Keying the crank sounds good to me. :thumb: :thumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,548 Posts
Might as well do the head studs while you're at it...they aren't that much more than the bolts. :cheers:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
387 Posts
dmtnt said:
Pulling the trigger on the following today:

G5X-3 112 cam
AFR 205's milled to 59cc
flycutting pistons
LSX 90mm and NW TB
ATI underdrive pulley/damper
JWIS timing chain
Installation and tuning by Norris Motorsports

Already have LG headers and Vortex intake. Any other "while they're in there" stuff? ARP head studs? Key the crank for the pulley? FYI, my car is pretty much track-only (road race) so daily driveability is a non-issue.

Thanks guys. :z:
Sounds Great!

What about your clutch?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,383 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OhOneZOhSiXXX said:
What about your clutch?
My stock clutch hasn't given me a single problem (yet). From what I can tell, drag racers kill them a lot quicker than us road race guys.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
387 Posts
dmtnt said:
My stock clutch hasn't given me a single problem (yet). From what I can tell, drag racers kill them a lot quicker than us road race guys.
ttt

Ofcourse it wont. You are not running nearly as much hp as you will be.

The labor alone to put a clutch in afterwards, may exceed its price. Consider this strongly. My $.02.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,190 Posts
Those poor poor goodyears.;)

Sounds great to me Joe. I'm jealous. :jammin:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
387 Posts
dmtnt said:
Thanks. Got any recommendations? Maybe that new Texstralia one that everyone's raving about?
I am not versed on the Texstralia. Could very well be a great clutch.

I went with a SPEC III (w/ a special Full Kevlar Clutch Plate by MTI). Its cheap (relatively), and works just fine for the hp you are looking to get. Just make sure that whoever is installing it ensures that it is balanced, beforehand. I would recommend a aluminum Pressure plate and flywheel if the $$ allows. Gives alot better Throttle response...revs faster...come out the corners alot quicker.

Also, use ARP Rod Bolts. They are much stronger. The head studs are a good idea. You will also have to change your Fuel Injectors (32# is sufficient). I recommend harder pushrods, and roller lifters. Also a 160 T-stat. Also, depending on your mileage, you may want to change your oil pump (a stock one is fine ~ $100) while your in there.

You only get one chance at this (unless ofcourse you have MMTB (More Money Than Brains))...
Do it once, do it right!

PM me if you need more info. I have learned a lot during my mods.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,383 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OhOneZOhSiXXX said:
I went with a SPEC III (w/ a special Full Kevlar Clutch Plate by MTI). Its cheap (relatively), and works just fine for the hp you are looking to get. Just make sure that whoever is installing it ensures that it is balanced, beforehand. I would recommend a aluminum Pressure plate and flywheel if the $$ allows. Gives alot better Throttle response...revs faster...come out the corners alot quicker.

Also, use ARP Rod Bolts. They are much stronger.
Well this is snowballing nicely... :roll: Already adding a new clutch and now switching to G5X-4. Still waiting for a price on changing the rod bolts out, not sure I want to know. :lol: It's only money!! :screwy:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,127 Posts
If the engine isn't out of the car I wouldn't change the rod bolts.
You don't have to key the crank unless you are super charging
I would use the 7.350 hardened push tubes
Make sure you upgrade the springs (if LG is supplying the heads they will be)
I would also make sure you use the Comp R Lifters as the OEM lifters will fade under those springs.
I have the same set up EXCEPT using the G5-X3 cam I have 487 rwhp.
YOUR CLUTCH WILL NOT HOLD UP.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,744 Posts
I also think a clutch upgrade is a good idea. The Texstralia seems to be the clutch Du Jour. However I would not do a clutch and the motor at the same time. I have heard just enough horror stories about clutch going bad when motor work and clutch work was done at the same time. The Dyno tune seems to wreak havoc on new clutches because they were not broken in properly first. I'm interested to hear what others feel about this. :z:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,383 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
IT L GO said:
The Dyno tune seems to wreak havoc on new clutches because they were not broken in properly first. I'm interested to hear what others feel about this. :z:
Makes sense. I'm curious as well to hear others' thoughts. I would think that doing heads/cam won't impact a clutch job that much anyway. Wouldn't I only have to drop the headers to do the clutch (engine-wise)?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,383 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
22655TD said:
YOUR CLUTCH WILL NOT HOLD UP.
Was talking to a good friend who drives a Lingenfelter Stage II TT with 650+ at the wheels. He doesn't drag race at all, does DE events and drives it on the street. He's been running a stock Z06 clutch for the last 2 years with zero problems. Lingenfelter recommended he stay with the Z06 clutch. :-?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,127 Posts
dmtnt said:
Was talking to a good friend who drives a Lingenfelter Stage II TT with 650+ at the wheels. He doesn't drag race at all, does DE events and drives it on the street. He's been running a stock Z06 clutch for the last 2 years with zero problems. Lingenfelter recommended he stay with the Z06 clutch. :-?
I went thru 3 stock clutches at 409 RWHP (maybe I am hard on a clutch) but after I put in a Exedy Twin (People say the twin is too hard on driveline) The differance is night and day dealing with the smoothness and balance between the two.
BUT, The idea of NOT braking in a clutch on a dyno tune appeals to me. It really will not cause any differance in money if you put one in now OR later as that work has nothing to do with the engine work being done.
BUT with those slicks I promise that you will smoke that clutch soon with that package. The cam itself will punish the clutch just on NORMAL driving leaving a stop light, due to you having to release differantly to keep from stalling due to the duration of that cam .
Good luck to you!! The X4 cam wasn't out yet when I did my H/C package or I would have crammed it in there.
ALSO spend some time cleaning up and port matching the intake to the heads as that can give you a few more ponies for a little bit of elbow work, (I want to think so anyway)
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top