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Good luck on the clutch.

Check out my post about drilling the restriction out of the clutch line, might be a worthwhile mod while you are in there.
 

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How much does the Spec flywheel weight? I have been looking at doing the same thing, but was tossed up between Spec and Fidanza flywheel.
 

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What's up dude,

Good luck with the clutch. I just came out of a spec nightmare. I'll give you some tips to avoid what i went thru.

I installed a Spec II with the Spec steel flywheel 6 months ago and had 2 major problems.

1. The clutch was "grabby" off a start. The whole rear of the car would shake and jump up and down. It was bad. I figured it just needed to be broken in but it never went away.

2. I had a bad vibration at 2.5k and 4k rpm. Were talkin a shake the rearview mirror vibration.

I'm picking my car up tommorow from the shop. They installed a New Transmission and a New stock Flywheel/Clutch/PP.

My mechanic says everything is fixed. Here's what we figured out about the above problems.


1. My Spec steel flywheel had 2 high spots on the friction surface. You can see them burned on the flywheel below. You can feel them with your finger.





This also marked the disk. See the different color in the middle of the discs.





This is what was causing the grabbing off the line.

2. The LS6 motor is spin balanced at the factory and is fine tuned by putting 2 different size pins in 12 holes around the flywheel. Normal procedure is to install new pins in the same position in the new flywheel. This is what my mechanic (Chevy Mechanic) did but i still has vibrations.


So i would strongly recommend you have the new flywheel checked for flatness at a machine shop. While it's there you may want to have them balance the new fly/disc/PP assembly to match the exact balance of the old assembly.

As a disclaimer many folks have put the Spec stuff in with no problems and i'm not an engineer so talk to your mechanic about all this. I just know what happened to me and a $100 bucks at a machine shop is alot cheaper that paying to have everything re-done.

You can do some searches on the site for "clutch vibration" and "flywheel balance" and see other threads of similar issues other people have had.

I'm not saying Spec makes a bad product but Spec makes a bad product!!!!

Do your homework and you should be fine.


Good Luck,

PJ
 

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Anytime the Spec clutch comes up on this board it's like a 50/50 good vs. bad posts from the people who decided to get it. I need a clutch and am deciding between the spec 3 and the Aussie clutch. The tuners I talk to say that 50% of the specs are bad right out of the box, and they like the Aussie. But the Aussie clutch is still new and I havent heard any feedback on it yet from guys that have it.

At a recent gathering, one of our members, who has a Spec 3 with quite a few passes on it, offered to let me try it out. So I jumped in his car and did a couple 2500 rpm launches, (I would never beat on someone else's car, it was just enough to feel what the clutch was like) and the spec felt great. It is a very quick grab, but that's what I would expect from a clutch designed for racing.

I would feel very confident with that clutch in my car. But I'm not too confident hearing all the negative reports on Spec. I really don't want to spend big money on a high end (dual/triple disc) clutch, it's not necessary for what I use my car for anyway (street). I just want a clutch that can handle my Magnusson tq and not slip or break. Aussie is not exactly cheap. Spec or Aussie - :ity:
 

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I have about 3k miles on my spec stage III w/aluminum flywheel and havent had any problems. You have to work the clutch and accelerator just right or the car will shake alot until the rpms come up but its not bad and just takes some getting used to, to figure out the footwork. I just figured it was a racing clutch so its not going to be as "user friendly" as the stock one. Price we pay for having a street legal race car. :jammin:
 

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Hi Miami,

Dude i'm just trying to help you. You can take it or leave it. I'd rather be rich than right and youuur right!!!!

In answer to your question about spec, when i called them and asked them why the car was grabby off the line and they said that i raced it and warped the flywheel. It's true i raced it but the clutch was Grabby from the day i drove it home from the shop, and i didn't track it until a couple of weeks later. As far as the ](new parts + professional mounting by Chevy Mechanic)[ goes. Dealers are not generally keen on pulling a tranny out to troubleshoot customer supplied parts.

I fear you will also find this out.


Also the first clutch disk Spec sent me was warped. Luckily my mechanic saw the disc and noticed it was warped. He took digital pictures of the obvious warpage and Spec fed-ex'ed a new disk the next day.

God Speed young solider and may the force be with you...

Lord PJ
 

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miami993c297 said:
Hi jub jub
you are a reference on this forum, can you develop a little more about your opinion on SPEC please, I did a lot of research and I found like most of the time half/half on good and bad feedback with this brand. It is pretty similar kind of percentage with other brands but I don't remind something specific about yourself, maybe I missed that.
Hope to read you soon.
Christian
Read the posts above. Too much bad karma with the spec. If I were to replace a clutch running 500 hp or less I would go with a stock clutch. My stock clutch is holding up well since the cam and head job. I've just read too much bad press on Spec to even consider it.
 

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You go Jub

PJ
 

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"Clutches stages 2, 3, and 4 must be broken in for a minimum of 400 miles, primarily city and/or stop-and-go driving, before full throttle engagement, launching or speed shifting. Failure to vreak in the clutch product will hinder clutch performance and life, and void all warranties."

I'm not suggesting the product you got wasn't faulty, but it's probably not fair that you give such a negative opinion about the product when clear directions weren't followed.
 

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I've got 4K on my Spec 2/3 hybrid, Al Flywheel and lightweight PP. I am extremely satisfied. The assembly is better balanced than the OEM setup was. Break-in took a little longer than expected, but mostly because I installed the parts and then drove the car 1300 miles to Florida the next day (and without much shifting, there can be no break-in).

The Al FW and lightweight PP made a noticable difference in how hard the car pulls when you goose it.
 

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Well add another problem install to the list!!!!!!!! Same deal 2500 and 4000 rpm this thing shakes bad. I talked to Spec and had the clutch taken back out and this time did the balance job with the pressure plate on the flywheel as I was told they are perfect from Spec by Spec. It was 40grams out of balance. Even after the balance was done to correct it still has the shake in the same spots just not as bad. The car is still not right and makes you not want to drive it. I have been talking to Spec but have yet to get a call back!!!!!!!!!! The factory set up was within 4 grams of a zero balance very close.
 

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I have a Spec II w/ Fidanza flywheel in my 02. Performance of the clutch is fine, although it's very "grabby" from a stop (like the others have stated). HOWEVER, at idle (while at a stop light) the damn thing rattles and chatters like a freakin' diesel truck. Sounds like my tranny is about to fall out. However when I press the clutch (while in neutral) the chatter stops. Anyone else experience this? (BTW...it was installed by GM dealer)
 
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