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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Put in some good quality racing fluid, Motul or AP600, Castrol if your rich. Goodrich SS Lines. Rippie SS caliper pistons. Cryo'd GM Motorsport rotors, Mallett Gold/Silver, or Hawk, Performance Friction, Poerterfield, or Carbomettalic racing pads and you will have an adequate system for racing. If your not in a stock class and want to spend more then a good racing rotor with "Hats" would bring the system right up to speed. Next, Ultimate, would be 6 pot Calipers from Alcon or Brembo
 

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How big is the diff between GM Motorsport rotors and "good" hatted rotors?

Who makes good hatted rotors? For track events... not looks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Differences are

Heat transfer (or lack there of to the wheel bearing)
Weight (lighter is better)
Longevity (last longer, so does your wallet, after the initial sticker shock)
Better stopping power. no fade, more consistant.

Brembo, AP, Alcon, Wilwood, Baer
 

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Coleman too...

I meant a direct "bolt on" application for the stock C5 brake setup... I know Dilusi offers direct replacement floating rotors, I've only seen cross-drilled sets from Baer, so that's out... anyone else??
 

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tars, not brakes

It's raining in Seattle and I'm bored.
The guy I bought my '01 Z06 from said he turned (no real reason to "bench race" this one) 1.35.xx on the F-1's, 1.33.xx on Yoko A032R's, and 1.31.xx on Hoosiers DOT radials. Uses Motul 600 and some kind of carbon metallic brake pad on the stock rotors. I don't think brakes would gain you 2-4 secs on a 1.9 mi road course. And the "race" pads were on the car when I got it. they were smooth, worked pretty well with no heat in them. No squeal not much dust, either.

Something to think about.
 

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Don't forget some cooling to the front brakes.
 

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Don't forget the $12.95 DRM brake bias spring.....I've heard you can stop 20 feet faster from 60mph with this spring putting more braking force on the rear tires. :D

I use the Motul 600 brake fluid, DRM ss lines, DRM bias spring, and Hawk Plus pads. The Z's brakes are good, but what a difference these mods make. If someone's following too close and you gotta get on the binders.....your rear end's gonna get a "Face Lift.":eek: :(

:cheers:
 

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01ZEE06 said:
Don't forget the $12.95 DRM brake bias spring.....I've heard you can stop 20 feet faster from 60mph with this spring putting more braking force on the rear tires. :D

I use the Motul 600 brake fluid, DRM ss lines, DRM bias spring, and Hawk Plus pads. The Z's brakes are good, but what a difference these mods make. If someone's following too close and you gotta get on the binders.....your rear end's gonna get a "Face Lift.":eek: :(

:cheers:
Uhh, the Z has dynamic rear brake proportioning. There is no spring to put in.
 

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Wrongo my friend Mike. It's still a mechanical system. I know, because I put the spring in my master cylinder. If you don't believe me, click on this link: www.dougrippie.com/

Then, click on "Brakes," then click on the 10th listing in the Index titled "C4/C5 DRM Brake Bias Spring."

Yes, our Z's have dynamic rear brake proportioning, but it takes it's orders from a little spring located in the master cylinder.

HTH,
Barrie
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You're right....

Rippie does sell the Brake Bias Spring for the C4/C5 but it is not applicable to the Z06 system. They do not recommend using their spring in the Z06.

Brakes may or may not improve times on a track but the drop in the times that were quoted were probably due to tires. I have seen a 2-3 second per lap drop with the Hoosiers at Nelson Ledges and a 5-6 sec drop per lap at Watkins Glen.
 

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good tars, crappy brakes

I claim: Stock pads with hoosier will be SLOWER than race pads with stock tires. (Due to stock pad fade)
 

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good tars, crappy brakes

I'll see your claim and raise you this: anybody who takes even a middle of the line street car (T-Bird, Crown Vic, Neon, Porsha) and wants to have any fun at all would use race pads. So, for this group, I wouldn't even have stock pads in the discussion. You gotta have brakes, and almost nobody's stockers willl hold up to what we all know we do out there. So, I believe you make race pads the standard MINIMAL SETUP, then compare from there. You can't go fast unless you have good brakes, and EVERYBODY like I said, uses good pads. You can take your pick, I prefer Porterfield, cuz you kin call em up and talk to Andy hisownself about brakes.
When I raced Showroom Stock, you couldn't use any cooling at all. Talk about trippin'! Go into T-2 at Seattle at a buck 35, and stand on em. They goes to the floor and you just waits and hopes for the best at turn in! Other guys way better than me could do that and turn 3 secs better than me, partly cuz of but more b/c of brand new tars. I always ran used tars, bein a cheapskate and really non-competitive with the deep pocket guys.
The Z06 is just up a notch from there( ok, back on topic.), make it a buck 50-55, and stand on em and wait and hope at turn in!
 

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I say if you dont notice an improvement in lap times or consistancy with a brake pad/fluid/line upgrade. Then you arent braking deep enough. Try braking is late as you possibly can lap after lap for a whole 25 min session. Then see how your brakes are.:D
 

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Mo' brakes

Trying for a 25 minute session w/all late braking is a good goal, but your will invariably run up the tialpipe of some slowpoke newbie in his brand new porsha or Z3 or S4, and your brakes cool down on you , and Voila! you are strating with good brakes again. Cool!The only way you'll likely get a good 25 minutes of clean track is to rent it yourself. I've even been slowed by Rx7's, some of the lesser beemers and miatas, in my stock Z28 in races, I had brakes again after following them thru a few corners.
Later, at some driving schools, I put on the cheapest air ducting I could (Home Depot dryer hose!) whcih needless to say is much less attractive than the Z06 brake ducts, and I had Way better brakes. But, overall, I think the best lap time improvements came when I bucked up for decent tars.
PS, try to notice if you are coasting with your foot lightly on the brake. I did that as a beginner, and had to have a faster driver tell me about it after the race. When I stopped coasting into the really fast turns resting my foot on the brake, I got ddper brake points and better brake pedal. I might pint out however that if you are going from one fast one to another fast onelik, t-2 to t-3A at Seattle, you might want to dab the pedal to make sure you have a brake pedal when you need it at the approaching turn.
I used the escape road a couple times figuring this out! Not bad in qualifying, BAD in a race (15 sec stop and go at trak out of the esc rd.)
 

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DJWorm,

On the Brake Bias Spring, I thought that it was strange that DRM would sell me a Brake Bias Spring if they didn't recommend it.....especially since they knew I had a Z.

Soooooo, I gave Doug Rippie a call, and you're absolutely correct that the last 2 years there is an electronic proportioning system that activates more rear brake.

However, it's engineered to have not a whole lot of effect, as GM doesn't want to cause any wear problems that can come back to bite 'em you know where :D

Bottom line is that Doug Rippie DOES RECOMMEND THE USE OF THEIR BRAKE BIAS SPRING IN Z06'S TO GREATLY INCREASE BRAKE POWER for those who don't mind the possibility of wear problems. They also recommend better rear rotors, calipers and high performance brake pads to improve braking further and handle the wear problem.

NOW, I gotta check my new rear pads for wear. I'll report back later :) :guiness:

:cheers:
Barrie
 

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I was thinking of getting one of the springs, but I couldnt figure out where it goes.:-? The master cylinder looks different than the one on my C4. On the C4 you put the spring in the front of the MC behind a large bolt. Where does it go on the ZO6?
 

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Brakes?

I gotta recommend to youse guys to get your rotors frozen. Ups the wear by 2-4X, according to my Viper racing friend. He does 19+ races /year, so sees LOTS of braking. Says cryo trating is the way to go. Then, no wear problem from more rear bias, AWA longer lasting fronts. Did this on my Showroom Stock Camrao when racing (no brake cooling allowed, remember?), and later when open tracking, MUCHO difference.
 

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Zee Freak,

Mr Goodwrench put mine in my cars master cylinder. So, I can't help you. Call DRM. They really have a great attitude and I'm sure they can guide you. Apparently it's a piece of cake if you know how and where :)

:cheers:
Barrie
 
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