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The Michelin Sport Cup work great when run for more then 4-5 minutes, i run in Solo 1 and i could not get any heat in them on a semi cool day 60-70's, 1 warm up lap and three hot laps are not enough for these tires, open lapping they are great or on hot days 80's+.
 

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G Stamatakos said:
The Michelin Sport Cup work great when run for more then 4-5 minutes, i run in Solo 1 and i could not get any heat in them on a semi cool day 60-70's, 1 warm up lap and three hot laps are not enough for these tires, open lapping they are great or on hot days 80's+.
I agree with you on that! When I first went out on them I thought they were terrible. It took 3 laps (10 minutes) of hard driving to warm them up. They were great after that. Definitely not an autocross tire.
 

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Just picked up a slightly used set of 275 front and 305 rear Hoosier DOT Radials for November. Can't wait to try them out.
 

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You may already be aware, but if you're coming off street tires, be advised that the Hoosiers won't say much to you on the edge.

When I went to the Hoosiers, I found that my cajones needed to grow a little (still growing actually) to put the car on the edge.

Braking will be much better also.

Have fun!



:D :D :D
 

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Yep. I've been using R-compound (Toyo RA1) for a while now so I've gotten used to more stick, but they talk too much. I'd like to try something quieter and even more sticky. Thanks :)
 

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Running the smaller 275/40x17 on the front for the track and larger width rears will give the car poor turn in and static understeer in mid corner. This holds true for both track and AutoX, high or low speed. The only time the 275/40x17 is desirable is in the rain with rain tires on.

There are a number of solutions:

1. the T1 alternate to stock set up is fine. 10x17 wheels in the front and 11x17 in the rear with 315/35x17's all the way around. These are SCCA legal. for T1

2. If your not bound by SCCA T1 rules you can do even better.
My personal preference is to run Hoosier 305/30x18 on 11x18" wheels in the front. I like the 315/35x17 on either 11 or 11.5x17" for the rear. The reason I like this combination is:
- the tire contact patch is almost equal F to R.
- this reduces the static and mid corner understeer and makes the car as neutral as possible.
- the 30 aspect ratio on 18" in the front reduce the side wall flex and allow crisp turn in with hardly any flex
- this also reduces dive under heavy braking
- the larger contact patch in the front besides reducing understeer and flex also increases front grip and allows higher cornering speeds
- the 35 aspect in the rear allows more side wall flex in the rear than the front and allows better F>R weight transfer under hard acceleration this allows quicker straight line trap speeds and higher corner exit speeds
- there is also more grip and tire contact patch in the rear which aids traction.

3.I have been toying with the idea of going to 335's in the rear but you either need to be tubbed or with more positive offset which allows them to stick out. also I fear that a 305/335 commbination would regress the car to the understeer condition.

4. the 315/335 F/R combination might be an alternative though.

The is no need to reprogram and the nice thing is all of these tire combinations have 25.5" diameters
Got a few questions:
I've got a 2002 Z06 - stock in every way, even running Goodyear F1 SC tires. This is my street car and track car. 30k mile car, I drive about 4k miles per year and do 1 or 2 HPDE events per year. Been doing DEs since 1990. I like to run hard at the track and wish my car didn't understeer like it does w/ factory setup.

I've had an offer to sell me some used 11x17 wheels w/ some used Hoosier 315/35s on them for $800. Haven't actually looked closely at them but saw them on a car at Barber. I see 11x17 50mm offset new wheels on the internet all the time for $550. I'm thinking about starting w/ new wheels and some new street tires - I don't have a truck to carry extra wheels to the track. So, some dilemmas.

1. Can I run 11x17 50mm offset wheels w/ 315/35-17 tires w/o rubbing and interference problems? The confusion for me is seeing things like the T1 rules about 10" on front, and the fact that the factory wheels have more offset. Don't want to tear up the car.

2. Remembering that I am only running 1-2 HPDEs per year, I do like to run fast (and have a competitive streak), is there really any reason not to run some aftermarket wheels that will be heavier than stock? I understand unsprung weight, etc. but I'm not racing for money, just fun. Seems like the increase in wheel and tire width may take me as far as I want to go anyway, don't you think?

3. Are the wheels and tires the best way to accomplish more neutral handling, rather than sway bars? I don't have an unlimited budget.

4. Brake pads - I've successfully run the factory Z06 pads (3rd set) (semi-metallic) and they seem to stop fine, some shimmy on the track, but they go back to totally smooth once cooled down. Still original rotors on all 4 corners. If I get my traction better w/ new tire/wheel setup, will the factory pads still hold up?

5. If I do a track pad, then switch back to street pads, can you get away with just swapping the pads - i.e. no turning rotors or light sanding of the rotors, etc.?

6. Factory camber on track days eats my Goodyear F1s up on the outer edges on the front and somewhat less wear on the rears. Anyone with a good compromise settings for my situation?

7. Has anyone ever attempted successfully to to mark toe-in and camber settings - 1 mark for street and a 2nd mark for track, then make the switch at home before and after? If I were to run the Hoosiers or some R-comps I apparently would need to run 2.5 - 3.0 deg. camber per Hoosier website.

Any help on each of these would be greatly appreciated.
 
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