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I decided to take the Z06 out for some spirited driving today, and noticed on the 1-2 shift, I was getting some wheel hop. I have never experienced this in the past and was wondering why this is all of a sudden occuring. Is this common or is this something that is showing the begining of a part failing? Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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What temperature was it when you were driving? I've noticed that I get wheel hop only when its below about 70 degrees. I was at the track yesterday, 74 degrees, and got zero wheel hop the whole day. I dont know what year your car is, but you might try replacing your shocks with '04 shocks (I did) and it made a world of difference.
 

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u should change ur tires and see what happens..
 

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The cooler the temps, the more hop and less traction you will get with the stock meats.

Jack
 

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When my was new I had little issues with wheel hop, In the cold ofcourse when I shifted hard into 2nd, as I beat on it more even when I get on it full throddle from 1st roll or 2nd it hops in the winter really bad, when its hot its rare, but thats what the IRS is known for, Im pretty sure some better shocks will help alot :D
 

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The 2004 Sachs shocks will help will prevent wheel hop :cheers:
 

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If your on GY get better (softer) tires, jsut remember to let off the gas pedal when it starts to wheel hop or else it will cost you in repairs.
 

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Z06 Wheel Hop Solved - The Solution

I read every thread on this web sight and many others concerning wheel hop and saw suggestions from new shocks to something as simple as lowering. I was having a severe wheel hop problem with my 2003 Z06 especially on high traction surfaces and something had to be done.

Based on the things I read here is what I did and the order I did it.

1. Lowered the front and rear to the lowest possible settings using the stock Z06 bolts - Car looks much better but no improvement with the wheel hop problem.

2. Had thorough alignment done at GM dealer. Explained problem, but after alignment they said it needed very little change and was OK. Wheel hop problem not any better after alignment.

3. Replaced stock Z06 tires with 315/30/18 Michelin Pilot Sports - Better traction but wheel hop problem was still there.

4. Replaced rear upper and lower control arm bushings, rear sway bar bushings, and spring cushion bushings (The one just below the height adjustment nuts on the rear spring) with poly bushings - Wheel hop problem almost entirely gone now and barely noticeable using any launch method on any traction condition!

If I had this to do over again, I would skip everything else and just go ahead and do the poly bushing replacement first and be done with it.


The only disadvantage to poly bushings is a slightly stiffer ride in the rear and the need to occasionally lubricate the bushings to avoid any possibility of annoying squeaking. Please note that is best to have the rear end realigned after the bushings have been replaced about a week and they have settled in.

I hope this info helps someone on here because I would have done this as soon as I bought the car rather than worrying about it for a year before finding the real solution.

Ken
:z:
 

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i assume you have t/c off, and comp mode on..i have had it happen on mine with t/c on and worn rear tires..but i have new rears F1's and comp mode when spirited and no probs.
 

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Kenvc...great write-up on wheel hop problem shooting. Thanks for sharing your experience... :thumb:

Silvertp
 

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vortech said:
Who sells these poly bushings for these cars?
same question here
 

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C5 wheel hop is not a suspension issue. You can change shocks, springs, bushings and whatever until the cows come home and your car may still wheel hop.

GM tested extensively to find a solution, and short of a redesign of the powertrain came up with nothing. It even tested a C5 chassis with no suspension at all and still could generate wheel hop.

What causes wheel hop from a C5 is a torsional reaction in the driveline. The cumulative effect of the driveshaft, the transaxle input shaft and the axle shafts twisting manifests itself as wheel hop.

The idea that it's temperature-specific is dubious. I was out doing quarter-mile tests last night in 58-deg weather and had no wheel hop.

What can cause or eliminate it is how you shock the driveline when leaving the line and on shifts. I try to leave with a rapid clutch engagement rather than "popping" or "sidestepping" it. Also, I shift as fast as I can using the clutch--I don't powershift for reliability/durability reasons. All this seems to mitigate shock loads which can set up the torsional oscillation that starts wheel hop.

To a certain extent, you can affect the wheel hop issue with your tire choice as traction is another factor in creating the torsional reaction. As to which tires are better than others? Your guess is as good as mine. I can tell you that with proper starting line technique and shifting, I can make pass after pass after pass in 3Balls39 (which, at this point, is basically stock) with no wheel hop. Will it be the same when I get to the 500hp level in mods and switch to some kind of drag radial?

I guess I'll find out, huh.
 

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Wheel Hop, as Hib says, is caused by "driveline shock" and "driveline wrap up" which results in poor traction.

Specifically the cumulative driveline effect that Hib outlined induces a frequency that is above and outside the performance envelope of the spring. The springs function is to handle and dampen certain frequencies, both lowspeed and high speed (shaft). The shock used must be able to dampen the frequency back into the frequency envelope of the spring, dampen the spring appropriately within the performance envelope; absorbing the Bump and applying the appropriate Rebound. This is beyond the capability of most OEM shocks

I can guarantee that wheel hop is a function of the shocks; more specifically the rebound setting of the rear shocks.

Adding OEM '04 shocks will help a street driven car.

However to completely remove wheel hop you should consider switching to a monotube racing shock that is preferably Double Adjustable so that the shock rebound can be tuned independantly.

On a lowered car short shaft shocks must be used.

I recommend Penske DA's with remote reservoirs.
 

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My 02 Z gets wheel-hop off the line with soft clutch releases and non-powershifting fast shifts into second gear. The problem is worse in the cold because the tires spin easier when its cold (tire grip is much less in the cold) and the engine makes more power. I recently bought a set of drag radials and have yet to experience any wheel hop no matter how violent the wheelspin or clutch engagement is. I've been driving on these tires for a month with tire pressures of 30 psi cold (18 psi at the drag strip).
 
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