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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, the Z has past the 500 break in miles, and all 405 horses have been let loose from their stable! :D When did you do the 1st oil change? 1000 miles?

Thanks,
RT
 

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I did mine at 1000 miles. This really varies, and each person picks a mileage that makes them feel good. I've even heard of a few guys never doing a 1st oil change until the oil life monitor was down to 0%. I wouldn't recommend that one though :eek:.

I'd say 1000~1500 mile range should be cheap insurance.

Also, use a better oil filter than the ACDelco UP44. Get an ACDelco UPF44 Ultragaurd Gold if you can find one. One of the best filters you can find for the C5s.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks! There are some who rely on the DIC to change the oil. Is this still recommended for you road racers, and those who drive hard? I've always taken extremely good care of all my cars, and drive them like there's no tomorrow. I guess what I'm getting at is this: will the DIC indicate a shorter interval between oil changes if I drive the car hard?

Thanks,
RT
 

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I agree with ZeeOhSix, 1000-1500 miles. I changed mine around 1300 miles. I've found that a magnetic plug does catch some
fine metal contaminants.
 

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Very good question. Unfortunately I don't have the answer.

However, I am told that some cars (specifically the NSX) come from the factory with special oil that is designed to help seat all the engine parts and it shouldn't be changed until the manual's recommended interval - in order to give it enough time to do its thing (unless of course the car has been sitting on the lot for quite a long time).

I am not a mechanic and don't know if this is true for the Z or not. Maybe one of the more qualified guys on the forum could chime in.

I'm eager to hear more on this subject myself. :)
 

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I have to believe that my 02 oil life gauge knows hard driving from taking it easy. My oil life percentage decreases faster (less miles) when I drive it very hard, (Autocross) as opposed to 70mph on the highway. My 1st oil change @ 980 miles (Bowling Green to my home) still said I had 81% life left 2000 miles later, on the other hand, I'm at 68% with less than 1800 miles since the last change, (three Autosrosses, and Two Maniacal 150 mph Midnight trips to Atlantic City) :bang:
 

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I am scheduling my first oil change in 2 weeks...I have 6200 miles now.I cannot see the point in changing synthetic oil at 3000 or less miles.BTW,it used 1/2 quart which I added at 1700 miles in BG.The dipstick has not budged since.Is my dipstick getting longer?Does not use a drop.Starting to worry me.
 

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I did mine at 500 miles...My service advisor had to take a double look when he saw I only had 500 miles on the car..He looked at me and said "are you sure"...LOL...
 

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:roll: This was posted on the other forum too. :roll:

IF your jumping on it, change the oil ASAP....otherwise ... if your breaking it in easy change at 1000 miles. :p
 

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IMO, the first oil change is important. After that, you don't necessarly have to change the oil as often. I did the first oil change at 1000 miles, and will probably change it every 5000 miles after that.

Yes, the "Oil Life" indicator on the DIC will correspond on how you drive the car. I think I read in the owner's manual that the oil temperature and engine RPMs are used in an algorithm to estimate remaining oil life. So, if you are always pushing the engine, the DIC will definately tell you to change oil sooner. Based on how I've seen mine change with time (I record it at each gas fill-up), I would estimate that if you dirve pretty hard on the street or track, its going to tell you to change oil around 4000~5000 miles :D.
 

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As far as the debate for using dino oil until the rings seat, that happens in less than 200 miles usually so that should not be a motivation. I think as long as you change the original oil within 3K miles and 3-4K thereafter you are well ahead of the game.

I just changed mine at 2300 miles and installed a Mobil 1 M1-107 filter (as well as Mobil 1 10W30 Syn Oil - 7.5 quarts). The Mobil 1 in independent testing was the clear winner for capturing particles, not allowing unflitered oil to wash over to filtered and build quality. The AC UltraGuard did well too and is a lot cheaper ($4 vs $10) but IMO I will pay a bit extra for the quality.

FWIW my oil was just down to the add mark when I changed it, I have run the car fairly hard including 6 runs down the 1/4 mile.

Just my .02

Les
 

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ZO6/Les said:
The AC UltraGuard did well too and is a lot cheaper ($4 vs $10) but IMO I will pay a bit extra for the quality.
Where do you find UPF44 oil filters for $4? :eek:. Cheapest I've found is ~$10.
 

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To be fair the last UltraGuard that I purchased was for my LT1 and I am going from memory but I am sure I didn't pay more than $4-5 for it at Pep Boys. In any event the Mobil 1 tested ahead of it so I stay with the recommendation.

Les

ZeeOhSix said:


Where do you find UPF44 oil filters for $4? :eek:. Cheapest I've found is ~$10.
 

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Changed mine today

...at 766 miles.

Used a Mobil 1 filter. Didn't want to search all over for a UPF44 one. The PF44 piece is a joke, IMHO.

I was surprised that the stocker came off so easily. I was kind of dreading that.

It was fun to get up close and personal with the underside of my new car. I stayed under there looking around for awhile. :)
 

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Re: Changed mine today

Man I needed to use my floor jack to get under mine, then let it down to drain, back up to put the plug back in etc. not much space to marvel at the underside, but what I could see was pretty neat, starting with how far back that oil filter sits - thought at first "that can't be the oil filter" :)

Les

WA 2 FST said:
...at 766 miles.

Used a Mobil 1 filter. Didn't want to search all over for a UPF44 one. The PF44 piece is a joke, IMHO.

I was surprised that the stocker came off so easily. I was kind of dreading that.

It was fun to get up close and personal with the underside of my new car. I stayed under there looking around for awhile. :)
 

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Re: Re: Changed mine today

ZO6/Les said:
Man I needed to use my floor jack to get under mine, then let it down to drain, back up to put the plug back in etc. not much space to marvel at the underside, but what I could see was pretty neat, starting with how far back that oil filter sits - thought at first "that can't be the oil filter" :)

Les

I used 3 of my _very low-profile_ jacks. I used pucks at the jacking points on the front and then one jack at the rear cross-member. Using this method I was easily able to get the car up pretty high and then rested it on jackstands (with the back slightly higher than the front). Let it drain for ~15-20 mins.

I can't imagine NOT using a jack unless you have a lift. :D

I agree with regards to the oil filter. 1) its way back there 2) its very small 3) I like the orientation of it being vertical. Allows me to fill up the filter with oil before installing it without getting oil spilling out of it when installing it.
 

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Rapid,

This brings to mind something I was told by an engine buider. He too thought that the factory used a break-in additive and felt it should remain in the engine but said "if you want to do something try", what he calls, "a filter spin". Change the filter as soon as you get the car. And top it back off to the appropriate level! Filter only! The idea here is to leave the additive in and remove any engine assembly lube and debri that might get caught in the filter on initial start-up from the build! This made so much sense to me, that I often do it to my vehicles as a matter of maintenance. I change the oil, drive a couple of miles, and do a "filter spin" every 10k to 15k or so. That way I get a rinse job every now and then! Check it out, you'll be surprised at how dark that new oil can get in the filter when you dump it out for an inspection in a couple of miles, after you just changed it. :guiness:
 
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