O.K. guys and gals. How many miles should be put on before I change the oil for the first time? RPM's should be kept under what? Should I load the pistons?? Any suggestions?
This subject ALWAYS seems to come up over and over on ALL forums whether discussing performance cars or motorcycles. OPINIONS vary from A to Z. Here's mine . . . /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_rolleyes.gif
Initially, for the first several hundred miles, keep speed way down and engine rpms down as well. Take only short drives and allow for engine cooldowns in between. (This I'm told is important because it helps to "heat treat" the metal parts inside the engine).
The reason for driving at relatively slow speeds is to avoid hard use of the brakes and to allow them to bed the pads. Also, as any motorcyclist will tell you, it give the tires a chance to break-in as well.
After the first few hundred miles, you can gradually apply more throttle and get up to higher speeds. During this phase, try to vary engine speeds as opposed to holding constant rpms. However, don't be too aggressive or work your way anywhere near redline.
A good rule of thumb: change the oil BEFORE your first time to drive really agressively. Be sure to check for metal filings and change the filter as well. Again, as is the case with high performance motorcycles, it is generally recommmended to change the oil within the first 1000 miles, some say to do this even sooner, say by around 500 miles.
Now, before anyone says this regime really is unnecessary, I don't disagree, but if you really LOVE your car you'll still do these things anyway to be very gentle before you break her "(censored)". /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif
Have to agree. I changed my oil at 434 miles and found shavings in it. Changed it at 850 and found more. Kept RPMS under 3500 for first 900 miles then went to the track. Have 0ver 2000 miles now and not using a drop of oil. The car is awesome! Had a double autocross today and took both AM & PM FTD's (fastest times of the day) /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_wink.gif
I usually try to avoid answering these questions because they can be soooo controversial. But, I believe you have recieved some good information here from everyone who has responded!! /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_cool.gif
Thanks FRANK & IMA! .../phpBB/images/smiles/icon_lol.gif I am ordering my vortex from Exit 28 ( August special) and my power duct from WCC based on /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_rolleyes.gif now who said they liked that one over BPP? Gosh a mind is a terrible thing to waste!
There was a LT1 .7 sec behind me (on kuhmos too) so I better put some distance between him & me /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_wink.gif Brian
CORVETTE DAVE... YES! I did chg all fluids as well at 434 miles, found no shavings in rear or trans but at least now I know!
Frank, yeah I have a video cam that I can download pics into stills, am working on posting them to a yahoo site so I can IMG them to here, but as before, if you wanna, I will email them to you. Brian
ROD: I know you must be psyched getting your car... however, I would hesitate on running a solo event after 200-300 miles of highway driving. If you must, vary your speeds and change gears on the ride up. I'd also like to see ya change that 300mi break in oil & add a mag drain plug like zippy said. I put one in mine and even at 1200mi I was getting shavings. Like SMF says.. its good cheap insurance. Brian /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif
ROD I dont compete in SCCA so I dont know any info on their classing. You better check before making the trip as you say. I do know our sanctioning body is considering putting the Z06 in its own class as its kicking all the C5's butts! I have 6 wins in 6 tries doing that exact thing! /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_eek.gif As for the drain plug, your bro is wrong. You need to get one from CHEVY as its NOT stock or factory. Why? Excellent question as its like $1.65 my cost; their cost.. uhm...35cents? You gonna add one extra quart of oil at INDY to run? Brian