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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I ran this weekend at Carolina Motorsports Park, my 'home' track. First time using Wilwood H pads (had used Cobalt Spec VR prior to that), and after just 6 runs (about 25 minutes each), my right front rotor cracked. Not just the little heat check cracks, but from the middle all the way through to the outside.
Now, these rotors that were on the car were NAPA 25.00 specials, which most road course guys use 'cause they work and they're cheap. They had a few hundred street miles on them before I went to the track. After installing the Wilwoods, I bedded them in by doing 6 or 7 progressively harder stops from 70-20, then driving about 45 minutes on the highway with no braking to the track to cool them down. They then sat overnight before my runs.

Does anyone else have experience and an estimated amount of time their rotors last when using this combo?

As a comparison, my OEM stock rotors went through 5000+ street miles and 2 weekends (Sebring and CMP) with the Cobalt Spec VR's (which I LOVE, but used the Wilwoods because I wanted to try something new for comparison) and those rotors still look pretty good - they have some grooving in them, but the pads that matched them are gone, so I won't use the rotors anymore.

Would love to hear feedback! Thanks!
 

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I have one DE day on mine and probably a couple of thousand miles-H pads and NAPA rotors-and no problems with pads nor rotors. So far I like the H pads so much, I've just left them on the car. Stops better, less dust, maybe a little noise and just a better over all feeling brake pedal. I also have DRM ducts and that may be keeping rotor temps down.
Haven't used any other pad except the stock Z06 and H and the stock pad is no comparison in terms of stopping ability lap after lap and really cut stopping distance and point of braking on corner entry etc. I was told that they were harder on rotors but at $25-30/rotor who cares.
 

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Mine cracked thru as you described using stock pads. I don't think it makes any difference which pad material or which rotor you run. Its a C5 thing.

I ran a C4 for 4 seasons and never cracked a rotor thru. After three seasons the fronts were worn below the minimum thickness so I replaced them.
 

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Sounds like you just got a bad one to me. I can normally get 2 weekends out of a set of front rotors if I'm doing DE stuff or maybe a race and then a DE event. Running them on the street really doesn't do much to hurt them...it's just the ultra high heat from racing that will crack them. You should be able to get at least 3 weekends on the rear rotors.

Always have spares handy though!!!

I am using the Carbotech 11s F and 10s R so these things generate some serious heat.

You can also get those rotors from Rockauto.com and have them delivered to your door for less than $100 per set.
 

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UstaB-GS549 said:
Its a C5 thing.

QUOTE]

You are correct because the C5 is so much faster. Don't forget that the energy that is generated goes as the speed squared. If at Sebring for example, your C5 is doing 140 to 40 braking and the C4 did 120-40, that is 36% more energy and the H pad does it like right now! The H pads do generate so much heat (that is what brake pads are supposed to do!) that you will almost never wear out a rotor, but you will heat check them. With a operating temperature from 100-1300 (F), there is no reason outside of some noise and dust that they cannot be used on the street, but I still think OEM pads are best on the street.
http://www.wilwood.com/BrakePads/003-DESC/002-H/index.asp
 

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Yes! I set a new record a few weeks ago - 1 track day out of a set of NAPA front rotors using H pads (175 track miles). :drunk: I have DRM ducts, LG spindle ducts etc. and also am running Wilwood 6 piston front calipers. Thank goodness rotors are cheap!! :eek::
 

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dmtnt said:
Yes! I set a new record a few weeks ago - 1 track day out of a set of NAPA front rotors using H pads (175 track miles). :drunk: I have DRM ducts, LG spindle ducts etc. and also am running Wilwood 6 piston front calipers. Thank goodness rotors are cheap!! :eek::

Yes, but how were your braking distances and lap times?
 

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Ag-Z06,

CMP is one of the hardest tracks out there on brakes! My guess would be that you are getting a little faster than you have been in the past and using more brake. Be sure to install DRM brake ducts and Phoenix or LGM spindle ducts.

I ran CMP in my Supra, and I will not go back unless I have a full brake upgrade (Z06 or Supra). I had full brake ducting, new rotors, and motul 600. The dust boots dissentagrated, rotors cracked, and every time I came off the track the brakes were literally smoking... even after a full cool down lap. Had to drive around the parking area to get them cool enough to stop. The freind I was with boiled motul 600 :eek:

I have run at Roebling and VIR without major brake issues.

Kirk
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ghoffman said:
Yes, but how were your braking distances and lap times?
Braking distances were pretty good - I think I prefer the Cobalt Spec VR's for bite and overall feel, but the H's seem to have hardly worn at all from the weekend.
On crappy 6500 mile old F1 Supercars, my wife was clocking me at 1:53-1:54 at the fastest with average lap times around 1:55-1:56, so I was moving along pretty well. Glad I had my HARDBAR seat mounts for my EvoL and my HARDBAR harness bar holding me in, Gary. ;-)

Adam
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
kflee said:
Ag-Z06,

CMP is one of the hardest tracks out there on brakes! My guess would be that you are getting a little faster than you have been in the past and using more brake. Be sure to install DRM brake ducts and Phoenix or LGM spindle ducts.

I ran CMP in my Supra, and I will not go back unless I have a full brake upgrade (Z06 or Supra). I had full brake ducting, new rotors, and motul 600. The dust boots dissentagrated, rotors cracked, and every time I came off the track the brakes were literally smoking... even after a full cool down lap. Had to drive around the parking area to get them cool enough to stop. The freind I was with boiled motul 600 :eek:

I have run at Roebling and VIR without major brake issues.

Kirk
I ordered the DRM radiator/oil cooler, and the DRM "short stop" kit last week just before this event- anxiously awaiting their arrival. The short stop kit has the DRM brake ducts, stainless caliper pistons and stainless lines. I already run Motul 600, so 2 more bottles of that will be great! I hope to have all this installed for VIR in June with MazdaDrivers.

I did order my replacement rotors from rockauto.com, so that's what I used at the track to swap out the cracked right front rotor and swapped the left one just for good measure.
With the new rotors on the car, it took 4-5 laps to get them bedded in, and once I started really hitting the brakes, the car was all over the place under deceleration. lap 5-6 the car finally started getting stable.

The Z06 is an awesome track weapon and is fiercesomely fast, even stock. I really need to get a set of wheel/R-compounds to take advantage of the car's strengths, as I was having a helluva time keeping the car straight this weekend. Don't get me wrong - power-on oversteer is fun, but doesn't do the laptimes any good. :) I was actually much smoother driving with TC/AH OFF than in Comp mode, as I knew the computer nanny wasn't there to save me. It really forced me to be smooth on the brakes, and smooth applying throttle, but my best lap times were when I was going "commando".

Thanks for all the feedback fellas!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
speedpup said:
don't forget LGM spindle ducts which will really help put the air in the rotors for even cooling.
I'm thinking about the spindle ducts, but they look like they are a pain to install, having to separate the suspension arms and all. Plus, I'm told by a reliable source that the LGM spindle ducts are not the same diameter as the DRM hose which makes installation even trickier. My source says Phoenix's are the same diameter and easier to install. Anybody have feedback on that?
 

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The Phoenix spindle ducts are very easy to install (that is what I have). Some will argue that they are not as effective because they do not have the back plate that helps keep the air around the rotor. You can do a search for each and find install pictures for both and see exactly what I mean. I think the Phoenix work great.

Kirk
 
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