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Discussion Starter #3
Really?...where does....

....it say that?
I thought Gas, oil, widshield fluid and antifreeze/coolant were the owners choice.

As long as you put something in there.

It does meet GM specs
 

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DJ

If it say's it meets specs, then I stand corrected......AS usual.......
Pls double check with your GM manual B4, you switch, and pls advise........;)
 

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DJ,

Does it cool as good as water?? I couldn't find any evidence of this on the website. I just want the facts, not hyperbole such as "cools real good!!"

You gonna try it and give us a report on how this stuff works?

Thanks DJ,

:cheers:
Barrie
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am going to try it...

...under race conditions at Ft. Myers in February at the Evolution School, Pro Solo and National Tour the following week. Stay tuned.
 

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First off, I want to thank DJWORM for all his recent hard work around here with the performance posts and info! Now he is taking it to the next level, actually trying out the products on his own car :)eek: ) and report back to us! Well, I have been around long enough to know that any new product is quickly discounted by those afraid or reluctant to change. I applaud DJWORM and his efforts and hope that he continues this new role he accepted! Cheers to you DJ :cheers: Bill
 

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What very little I know about the Evans system could be written on a pinhead.

It's my recollection its primarily a closed system thing with some mods to the system involved.

I think it supposedly allows more even heating within the engine
but significantly raises the boil point and likes to be much hotter as a result. I also seem to recall that a ruduced velocity waterpump is what they suggest.

I'm always keen on a better built mousetrap. I would review how much a heater core replacement on a Corvette costs... if corrosion becomes an issue it would not be cool...
 

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What very little I know about the Evans system could be written on a pinhead.

It's my recollection it's primarily a closed system thing with some mods to the system involved to see benefit.

I think it supposedly allows more even heating within the engine
but significantly raises the boil point and "likes" to be much hotter as a result. I also seem to recall that a reduced velocity waterpump is what they suggest. All this may be the way to go, I'm just too locked into belief that a Chevy smallblock wants to run at 180 degrees to make horses. Hot oil and cold intake temps...

I'm always keen on a better built mousetrap. I would review how much a heater core replacement on a Corvette costs... if corrosion or fallout contamination becomes an issue it would not be "cool"...
 

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I believe that I ran a similar product in my Dad's Vette back in the early 90's. It too had a high boiling point and high viscosity. They sold the product based on the concept that it wouldn't boil against hot engine surfaces, thus it would be able to remove heat that boiling water couldn't.

My feelings after running the product for 2 years was that although the engine didn't overheat it did not help the engine produce more power. I later read that no other common substance has the ability to remove heat as well as water. Even commercial HVAC systems that use ammonia and freon do not conduct heat away as quick as water.

The idea is too prevent pre ignition and detonation by taking heat from engine hot spots, although note the viscosity of the product. Also note that they want you to reduce the velocity of the coolant greatly through your engine. I believe this is due to the fact that their product absorbs heat slower than conventional systems.

At the time I was running 11.5:1 cr and was trying to reduce the use of expensive race fuels. We eventually switched back to 100% water with water wetter and a corrosion inhibiter as well as some oval track mods to the cooling system. This combination now runs with 12.2:1 cr very cool on street gas, for full power some race gas is obviously still necessary. After all of the trouble with the other coolant I don't feel that it offered any gains, just alot of expense. (I remember one time the alternator belt cut through the rad hose and dumped $200 of coolant all over the road.
 

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What about Water Wetter?

I've heard good things about Evans NPG from at least one user but don't have any personal experience myself.

But I have used a mixture of Dexcool, water, and Watter Wetter with good results.
 

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I am not a thermodynamic expert, so chances are very good I got it all wrong.

From Evans website the Specific Heats comparisons are reported to be:

At 100° C (212° F) Btu/lb/°F Water is 1.01 and Evans is 0.82.

If I recall the higher the Specific Heat the better ability the substance has at absorbing heat. Cooling things is about absorbing as much heat as possible.

Also I remember that as water is pressurized the boiling point goes up.

Also listed is Heat of Vaporization which is in cal/mole which I think is the heat absorbed when the fluid is vaporized. I am assuming that the higher the number the more it absorbs. So the Evans looks better.
But does Vaporization of the fluid matter?

Bottom lines the numbers are there, and amateurs like myself are going to guess what they really mean. Who here is a thermodynamic expert and can explain the numbers on the Evans website?
 
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