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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
At late October I finished the build of my car.

Did it in 2 weeks , me and Heinz from coolchevy-raceparts in Austria.

Specs:
engine block: LSX
SC kit: A&A corvette
supercharger: V7 ysi
forged pistons (9.5 cr )
rods: i-beam callies
crank: dragonslayer callies
8 rib kit
flipdrive kit
inconel vales
heavy duty double springs
heavy duty push-rods
cam - lvl 2b - livernois
monster lvl 3 clutch
dewittz radiator
Mondo blowoff
A&A fuel system
American-racing headers
custom exhaust
no cats
stock heads



Now it does 906 hp at ~6200rpm.
The charger is not at full boost then but is getting lean after 6200. (the fuel system can't handle it :doh: )
In spring I'll install a boost-a-pump on the A&A pump and I'll be able to rev it all the way to 7100.
I hope for ~1000 hp with a methkit.

The car drives great.
The clutch is good for making muscles on my left foot!!

I wasn't expecting to be so instant power , no lag at all!!
And it revs incredible, instant from 4000 - 6000 rpm.

Very happy with this setup, THANKS to you guys on the forum for advices and tips :)

Mike, can you delete the thread "lsx Ysi expected hp" that was before the build and is useless now.


Some videos:
youtube:


Alex
 

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Great looking build, Alex!!

Seems like you went first class with the internals (smart move).

If you can, post up a pic of the dyno numbers including the a/f ratio. Would like to see how it looks. Also curious, did you go with the LSX ironblock or aluminum block?

As for the boost a pump, why skimp now? Have them install a higher flowing more powerful fuel pump instead.
Mines a Walbro and you can see the location in this pic if you're interested...



Congrats again on the build.

Mike

(btw, we don't delete threads with multiple posts on it)

*edit*
Sorry couple of additional questions/suggestions...

Why did you decide to use stock heads rather than some cc'd heads to lower CR for boost?
Suggest you consider a tranny/differential brace in the very near future. Also might want a hardened halfshaft with that type of power.
 

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OMG! That thing is a beast! Be careful with all that - too easy to smoke tires (at any speed).
Start saving money in your "tire fund". :lol: :lol:
 

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At late October I finished the build of my car.


In spring I'll install a boost-a-pump on the A&A pump and I'll be able to rev it all the way to 7100.

Very happy with this setup, THANKS to you guys on the forum for advices and tips :)


Alex
Why spend the time and big money to get where you are now and then use a band-aid as to fuel pump ?

A BAP is nothing more then forcing higher voltages and current loads onto the pump to fake it to work harder and it was not designed for and many cases people still use the stock wiring that cannot handle those amperage increases.

This causes high loads on pump, causes it to run hotter and worse if using low gas levels so that pump gets no cooling along with the wiring heating up and known to even melt.
This also effects hardware logic on the PCM

Time you install larger gage wiring and in most cases the BAP controller is a POS and over time does not work correctly.

Do it right and replace the pumps and do not forget the fuel volume engine needs at full load/boost might require all fuel lines to be replaced with larger ones and will the fuel rail and damper support that flow
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Great looking build, Alex!!

Seems like you went first class with the internals (smart move).

If you can, post up a pic of the dyno numbers including the a/f ratio. Would like to see how it looks. Also curious, did you go with the LSX ironblock or aluminum block?

As for the boost a pump, why skimp now? Have them install a higher flowing more powerful fuel pump instead.
Mines a Walbro and you can see the location in this pic if you're interested...


Congrats again on the build.

Mike

(btw, we don't delete threads with multiple posts on it)

*edit*
Sorry couple of additional questions/suggestions...

Why did you decide to use stock heads rather than some cc'd heads to lower CR for boost?
Suggest you consider a tranny/differential brace in the very near future. Also might want a hardened halfshaft with that type of power.


MIke

I dont have a full report from dyno with afr, I'll do a final setup on spring and post it then. (here is winter and cant do shit) :doh:
As you can see from this dyno sheet I posted before, after 6200rpm is no more increase in power , even is the boost keeps increasing.
After ~5500 rpm is getting lean even if I set the injectors full open :(.
So now is limited to 6000 rpm...

Is a GM LSX iron block, I didnt know they make it in aluminum as well :( , maybe would've been a better option.
The iron block is so damn heavy. The total weight of the car is now ~ 1500kg :( .

I installed the a&a pump and the go&return lines in the left side skirt, I see you have your big pump between the exhaust pipes.
For me is a bit complicated to install one there.
I think I'll install another one that will work in series with this one that I have.

I used stock heads because at that point I had no money for some ALL-PRO 6 bolt heads. In time I'll get them too.
But 1st I have to upgrade the transmission/ dif / axle .

I want to keep the car manual so if you recommend some parts it would be great. I race the car in 1/4 mile and 1 mile... :)

Alex
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OMG! That thing is a beast! Be careful with all that - too easy to smoke tires (at any speed).
Start saving money in your "tire fund". :lol: :lol:
Awesome power! :gjob:
Why spend the time and big money to get where you are now and then use a band-aid as to fuel pump ?

A BAP is nothing more then forcing higher voltages and current loads onto the pump to fake it to work harder and it was not designed for and many cases people still use the stock wiring that cannot handle those amperage increases.

This causes high loads on pump, causes it to run hotter and worse if using low gas levels so that pump gets no cooling along with the wiring heating up and known to even melt.
This also effects hardware logic on the PCM

Time you install larger gage wiring and in most cases the BAP controller is a POS and over time does not work correctly.

Do it right and replace the pumps and do not forget the fuel volume engine needs at full load/boost might require all fuel lines to be replaced with larger ones and will the fuel rail and damper support that flow

Thanks guys!

It really is a huge difference between the stock car and this SC monster, it losses traction in 4th gear with my old michelin PS2.
Now I bought a pear of nitto nt05 335/30 19 for street fun, didnt install them yet.
I'm kind of surprised how little rubber they have, less then 1/3 inch!! Hope they'll last more then one week :)

For drag I went with a pear or C5 17' front wheels with spacers and hoosier 17' drag slick. Hope I will not blow the transmission at the 1st pass :)
Didnt install them on the car yet but they seem veeeery soft and sticky!!!
One wheel (rim+tire) is 18kg ~39 pounds witch is super light :)

About the BOP, got it, I'll go for a bigger pump or install another one that will work with this one.
About the fuel rails, you might be right , didnt think about it, but I'll check.




Alex
 

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Alex, I certainly understand about the finances involved in doing everything at once. Trust me, been there done that :lol:

Let me say again, I'm very impressed with your build. That said, here's my concern....

You've started with the power side of the build but still need some periphery things to make your build safe if you run it hard. I don't want to see the work you've already done put at risk.

Examples...

You're running very high boost for stock heads and 11:1 CR. Hard runs or passes at the strip could lead to major problems with this arrangement.
With dished pistons, high-flow AFR 225 Mongoose heads with 72cc chambers and extra thick head gaskets my CR is down to 8.5:1 and I only run 16lbs of boost, You see my concern.

Racingvette already made some excellent points about using a BAP instead of a very strong high flowing fuel pump and bigger braided fuel lines so I won't go farther on that.

As far as the tranny/differential/axle goes, you may blow through your tranny at the track (as many of us have) but not much you can do there until it happens. I strongly suggest a tranny/differential brace and a hardened right halfshaft for the track. You've got a lot of power there and this will help some.

Here's a so-so pic of the brace (in red)....



I've got some additional things to add but have to run now. Will post up later.

Mike

*edit*

Sorry, had to run out this morning before I finished my thoughts...

Next suggestion

If you're taking your car to the strip, let me strongly suggest you get some skinnies for the front.
The power you're now making is very hard to control at the track, especially with a radial tire up front. With racing slicks on the back and radials up front your odds of putting it into the wall and the type of speeds you'll be running is very high. To keep it controllable skinnies are a must.

Next, at the drags do not launch over 4800rpm. If you get a nice burnout your slicks will give you good traction and that means the heavy torque is directly absorbed by the differential and tranny. You'll break the halfshaft (at least) and possibly the main shaft or the tranny itself.
The good thing about it is that you don't NEED to launch super hard. With the power you have now it is plenty to get you the 1/4 times you want without a super duper launch.

As for the drags, I also recommend a good adjustable set of shocks. With very high power levels, getting the rear to dip or squat on the launch and the first 2 shifts is very important for your passes. A nice soft setting on the rear shocks and a firm setting on the fronts will get you that type of squat. If you don't like the feel of the shocks during street use, you just reach your hand under the wheel wells and adjust the tension. I use HAL QA1's but there are several good brands available.

Lastly, I think your choice of the ironblock LSX is a good one considering your power levels. Don't worry about the extra weight, all that power you've got won't hardly notice.
At the drags however, the front end being heavier can hurt you launch some so if you get serious about the drags you can always weld some lead bars on the rear for an offset. Ask me how I know.. :lol:

Oh, one more thing...
Just my humble opinion but if your going lean and/or losing power at 6000rpm or before, it's a tuning problem and one you need to resolve quickly before any engine damage occurs. If you can't get the proper amount of fuel pressure with your current setup, lower the boost until you can. You can always get it retuned after changing out your fuel pump later.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Mike,

You should start writing a book :)
Thanks for the input, great info for everyone!


About the cr , I use wiseco -20 cc dish forged pistons , so my cr with
stock head is about 9.5:1 .

Here is winter and I dont drive the car until I fix the fuel delivery issue (in the
spring) .

I drove the car ~800 mile in one day, from Austria to Romania , and it was surprisingly good, except the f___ing fuel economy :lol: .
Even drove at 90 mph constant is ~40% more then stock . :cen:

brb

Alex
 

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I disagee completely. The BAP (when installed correctly) works just fine. I've had mine fro OVER 75k miles. When wired properly (with a hobbs switch) it only adds additional voltage under boost...where more pressure/volume is needed. It's when people try and become smarter than engineers and wire the thing full time that adds the thermal issues to the equation. Wire it properly (noticing a trend here) OP and say hello to 50% more voltage.

Now I'm by no means saying DON'T get a bigger pump...as a larger pump will always increase capacity, but the BAP isn't a bad product and shouold not be discredited just because one or two people don't benefit from it.
Your count of one means just that, not even a sample count.

I have seen MANY that due to upping the voltage to pump has fried them over time and second their controller is junk and fails over time
Try this on a 12 year old C5 with original fuel pump :-(

Add most are installed using the Stock fuel pump wiring that is already undersized and there have been cases where the wiring has MELTED due to high current loads to small sized gauged wire, not counting the voltage drop from front to rear of car.

BAP is cheapass, do it right the first time and is worse is increasing pressure/flow using the same sized hose and fuel rail diameters and too small fuel injectors meaning to make up the flow difference pump has to run more on increased voltage

As to only used for boost, that depends on how much boost, what elevation, if fuel injectors are too small and how often each owner tends to force engine into high boost.
Big difference in needs for 4 PSI boost and greedy running 8 - 12 PSI.

Fuel pump is cooled by being in the gas, many think the car will do better in performance like a day racing with low fuel limits (pump not in fuel), add that heat and the current load of BAP increased load and asking for pump failure
 

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I know of at least one highly-regarded tuner shop (they only work on Vettes) that will not use a boost-a-pump on a blower install. They install the correct pump for the application.
 

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People like you stall the aftermarket. You must not own a business or be in the industry...(and no, moderating a forum does NOT mean you're in the business).
a. racingvette is not a site moderator

b. he is "in the business"

But, thanks for playing anyway.

Mike
 

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When I see people use the "Bro" tag i know where it is heading

Stock fuel pumps are NOT designed to be running at 16-17 volts.
Try Ohms law A*O=V
Add voltage drop inducing current load and the owner in the end gets screwed.

Using BAP is a cheap lazy way to get a car out of the shop for big bucks to owner but has no merit to the car owner long term.

This reminds me of back in the late 1960s we used to paint all the light bulbs in the dash with fingernail polish to change the color and raise the voltage.
It looked cool until the filaments of bulbs melted. :screwy:

If it was that easy GM would have done that but instead added a full processor fuel system controller for ZR1 and ZL1, the correct fuel pump and the PCM commands HIGHER fuel pressure in a progressive manner as fuel needs required due to boost PSI, engine load, fuel injector duty cycle
GM's way allows smaller fuel injectors to be used so that non WOT/Boost conditions the engine reacts nicely but as boost increases so does fuel rail pressure/flow

The BAP is a band-aid and belongs on ricers, not on Corvettes.

Look at even the EVS kits and they supply larger fuel injectors AND a larger flowing fuel pump, not some cheap designed voltage booster to pump. Only purpose of BAP is lazy installers not wanting to spend the labor replacing internal pump

I think the old timers here go by the motto

Do it right the first time, or don't do it at all.


Cool story bro. After reading your post, it's obvious to me that you really don't have the foggiest idea of what you're talking about. If the BAP is cheapass, why haven't you built a better one? Considering my HUNDREDS of BAP equipped vehicles tuned in recent years and NEVER experiencing a glitch or hiccup from a single one...I can say from DIRECT EXPERIENCE that there is nothing wrong with it when used for it's intended purpose AND INSTALLED CORRECTLY. If you've "seen BAP's fry, or fuel pumps fry" they were either wired/installed incorrectly or the pumps were questionable to begin with. Any returnless fuel system can benefit from a voltage booster, specially when coupled with variable speed pumps that are constantly operated at always changing voltages. Any even half-assed mechanic can PROPERLY install a BAP with correct gauge wiring and failsafes.

I'm sorry that your original pump equipped 12 year old vette wouldn't benefit from a BAP. Awesome. That doesn't mean the hundreds of members on here wouldn't. Is this the type of personally biased opinions that you always give to your forum members? :drunken:

Way to welcome a stranger man. You don't really know anything about my experiences. People like you stall the aftermarket. You must not own a business or be in the industry...(and no, moderating a forum does NOT mean you're in the business).
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hey Guys, nice to see the thread revived :)

Now, I fallowed the advice of mike/ racingvette and didnt use the BOP on my config, I bought a "aeromotive A1000" working with me stock pump and now is just fine...

About the BOT, a friend had a very bad experience with a ... be prepared:
"hennessey camaro hpe700" witch comes with a BOP and the ... be preapred :
check engine light on the dash disabled !!!! + other stupid cheap things.
After ~10000 km the BOP failed and he run lean = melted some pistons, bend rods etc...

This is the car, the black Z06 is me:


So, go for a bigger pump in sc apps.

Just did some very nice upgrades to my car ... ~ 1000 rwhp.

brb with the update next week.

regards
Alex
 

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It's cool to see you guys enjoying American muscle over there :yeadog:
 
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