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Discussion Starter #1
Did you notice if the engine character and rpm smoothness loosens up after around 500 miles? I'm not driving at high rpms or speeds beyond 75 yet.

I haven't bought a brand new car for years and noticed that at 380 miles it seems to be getting smoother in feel at the 3000 rpm level and thought the engine would open up after the initial break in period, perhaps continuing so throughout the first 1000 miles.

What's the general experience for this engine performance break in period?
 

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I have also noticed that as you drive the car more, it feels smoother. So far I've put about 4800 miles on mine, and I can feel the engine revving smoother at higher rpms. It seems to keep improving over time and I expected it to, at least through 20k miles.

:cheers:

Loucas
2001 Torch Red/Black Int. +/-4800 miles
extreme sports partition (in the works)
ripper shifter (also in the works)
 

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Yup - it will smoothen out some, and make more power, as it loosens up...I don't understand this "take it easy" stuff you guys do...maybe I'm too young... :p :cheers:


Jim
-Beating the piss outta it from day 1
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Jim- how many miles do you have?
Did you really drive it however you wanted to from the first miles?
I wonder if I'm a little too conservative.
Anyways, I'm looking forward to a fuller and smoother accelation feeling if the engine settles inl
LMK the above if you would. Thanks...
 

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I know I will and have gotten lots of heat over this point over here...but having broken in lots of these engine's, all in Fbody's and in a couple Z06's (not mine, of course, watching others with LS6's)....I drained the Mobil 1 out the minute I got home. These rings like to be broken in on organic oil, the Mobil 1 is too thin for them to seat properly.

I drove the hell outta it the minute I got my hands on it, left the parking lot on my test drive with TC/AH off, sideways, in fact....I've now got 1600 miles on it, and on my 2nd oil change...haven't burned a drop.

I've seen many break-ins...and the cars seem to be as fast as you break them in...Just my personal experience, take it for what you will. :)
 

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The topic of breaking in new engines has been bounced around for quite a while......here's my 2 sense:

I always follow Manufacturer's recommendations...Period.

By trade, I am a senior engineering technician at Detroit Diesel Corporation. We deisgn, builld and test heavy duty diesel engines for the trucking, construction, industrial, gen-set, marine industry. My job consists of building, testing, re-building current and future engines, and individual engine coponents. We test them 24/7 in every which way imaginable! As a major mmanufacturer, we want to know when and why they break. And yes, I have tested engines with no oil, no water, coolant in the oil, contaminated oil, etc, etc. We over rev them, over heat 'em, over load them and monitor every aspect of the engine while doing so. I've started military diesels at -35 F and other test engines have idled for 7 straight days! I've witnessed and caused broken crankshafts, rods, bearings, dropped valves, and have seen more engines with holes in the blocks than you can imagine. 33 1/2 years with DDC.

My advice: Re-read paragraph #2 above. :D

Zippy :z: :z:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks Zippy.
I think I'll continue with the General's format for now.
Did you notice the engine smoothed out or is your car too new?
 

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Mr LA:

Mine is too new to tell, however my experience at DDC shows engines smooth out and make more hp after they have thousands of miles on them. BUT, our heavy duty truck engines come with 200,000 mile factory warranties! It would be unfair to compare them with gasoline engines.

Zip :z: :z:
 

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Zippy said:
It would be unfair to compare them with gasoline engines.

Zip :z: :z:
As I think it would be unfair to compare the break-in methods...I think my point is to break the motor in to how you want the car to perform. My experience has been to break them in fast if you want the car fast, break it in easy if you want a fast, but not as fast as possible, motor. For this reason I post my findings, and my experience, and then tell people to take it with a grain of salt, and take it for what it's worth. Not everyone wants the fastest one out there, not everyone races their cars, so it doesn't make a difference - they want to be able to look at the service writer and tell them honestly that they have run Mobil 1 through it from day one, as recommended. Not everyone wants to fix their own problems if something breaks...again, my own opinion based on how I want my car to perform.

And FWIW....I'm a network engineer...so if your router or firewall goes down, I can help ya....:p Oh, I drink a lot, too... :guiness:
 

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Your warranty is TOAST if you go to a non-synthetic oil--PERIOD! I asked before I got the ring fix.
 

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Well...I'll keep the forum updated on my oil consumption, and we can compare notes...you guys keeping Mobil 1 in it, and me breaking it in on organic oil...:)
 

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I just changed the oil in my SS at 1,200 miles and went with dino. When I get to 1,000 or so on the Z06 I'm thinking about going with a good dino oil in it too for a thousand miles or so. I seriously doubt the General will ever know. And I doubt it will ever matter. But, I enjoy playing the oil game as much as anybody. :D

Let's face it. All real men love to change the oil in their hot rods. It's a bonding thing. Makes us feel like we've done something constructive. And that feeling of knowing clean amber lube is flowing around in the engine is a feeling some guys will never understand. That's why we always give 'em a quick test drive after an oil change. :roll:
 

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This is why I love this forum.........ask a question and stand back!!!
Thanks to all involved.

Pete
 

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Oil and break in again...

I have posted about this before, but I felt I would weigh in on this again.

I became a Mobil1 convert many years ago. I have had a chance to examine what many motor look like (since I spend my nights working in a friends machine shop) after different conventional oil has been run in them.

I have 2 Nissan pickups. 1 is a show truck and the other is a daily driver. My show truck has 85K miles on it, and the motor ran Mobil 1 from 100 miles on the odometer onward. The motor is completely spotless inside. When I pulled the valve cover to have a look at the top end, and I found that the top of the head look like a new casting right out of the box. There were absolutely no deposits of any sort, the top of the head was clean aluminum. I have run the oil changes over 7500 miles on two occasions when I forgot to do my regular maintence. My work truck has 250K miles on it and hold great oil pressure, and runs like a top. When I bought it it had 55K miles and the inside had plenty of deposits already built up. The inside ranges from tan to black. But since I converted it over to Mobil 1 no other deposits are evident anywhere inside the motor. In fact the motor is actually a little cleaner. I attribute this to a better maintenance schedule than the previous owner maintanied though.

My aluminum headed TE63e equipped 87 GN runs Mobil 1 exclusively. And did for the first 168K miles before its recent rebuild.

I changed the oil on my 02 Z06 and am running Mobil 1 in it.

So between just a few of my cars I have over 500K miles on Mobil one without any major failures

Here is what I have seen when it comes to conventional vs synthetics.

Synthetics are ususally made of PAO (poly-alpha olefins). What does that mean? It means that all the waxes, esters, and non-lubricanting components (dinosaur poop) left in convetional oil are removed. So what you have is oil that does what it is supposed to do lubricate!

Conventional oils coke and burn, break down etc at lower temperature and stress level than a synthetic... My father and my grandfather both worked in the labs at Exxon. In fact my father lab did the QC on the spec fuel and oil for the Corvette Challenge. Exxon became a sponsor for the Corvette Challenge. When that happened conventional Exxon oil replaced Mobil 1. Up until that point they had not had any motor failures in the series. After that they became a regular occurance. Becasue the conventional oil in a STOCK motor couldn't handle the heat and the load.

Mobil 1 (or any true synthetic) will outlast any conventional oil by a gigantic margin. Think about this, they are both oil, one is just further refined to only have what you need, not what you don't.

The only really bad thing I have seen concerning synthetics is folks mixing oils. Which is never a good idea no matter what kind of oil you run. Find something and stick with it. I have seen two or three motors come in that the folks got the bright idea to add a quart of synthetic to the conventional oil (that already needed changing). The net result was a motor full of black goo with the consistency somewhere between Jell-O and RTV.

Now as for break in. The only thing I have seen with synthetic oils and break in is this. Mobil 1 (and other synthetics) do such a good job of lubricating I have heard of folks having problems getting rings to seal in some cases. In most cases this could be traced back to too slick a finish on the cylinder walls. Not enough load during break in, combined with lubrication that is too good. In fact I have seen motors run on conventional oil that have suffered from the same problem. The rings didn't seat becasue the finish was to slick on the cylinder wall, and an insufficent load was applied to the motor during break in. Before the ring has "scuffed in" the cylinder wall is glass smooth. In a dealership I am sure they will try to get away with just throwing rings in it. In reality the best thing is to re-hone the block (just enought to rough up the cylinders) and then throw new rings in.
In the Z06 motor this may just be because the ring set is a low tension set, and there are some bad sets that came out. I don't know, becasue I haven't looked at one of these "oil eaters" yet. I haven't seen anyone post a leakdown test, or anything else, just that their motor use oil. Some oil use is normal in a new motor. The levels I have seen reported appear to be excessive.

So, yes you might feel like breaking in a motor on conventional oil would ensure that your rings would seat. And it will because it does a much poorer job lubricating the engine and so the ring will wear more, and ensure that the get a good seal. But the break them in hard and they run hard mentality is myopic in its approach. There is a reasonable period in which a motor should be broken in, and under a reasonable load. Flogging a motor because you think it will run better just has no basis in reality.

A motor has a certain ammount of wear that will take place when it is new. Placing an excessive load on it to accelerate that wear and increase those tolerances over other motors broken in in a more rational method is not a best practice. I will agree on this though. I have seen several race motors make their best power right before they blew up. They were so whooped up and all the clearances were so big that the motor had almost no power robbing friction. And then they blew up like a grenade.
While I question that Chevrolet would void my warantee for swapping oil from synthetic to conventional and then back again, the whole idea of that makes absolutely no sense to me whatsoever.

Now as for break in. Every motor I have ever built or run makes more power as it ages up to a certain point at which it is completely broken in. So, most of those gains are due to wear. So, as ascribed to before if you flog a motor to death and induce a bunch of premature wear into it, it will probably run faster and make more hp at 1000 miles than a motor that has been broken in in a more reasonable manner. But at some point those gains will disappear. So, if I sacrifice 5 hp because for the first 1-2K miles but I get 100K more miles out of a motor, I will take that trade off.

My '02 car revs more freely than it did when I first got it, and I am sure there is some incremental improvement yet to come. But it revs really well now. The car has 1200 miles on it, is on its second oil change, and hasn't used a drop. I feel that the motor is a the point where I can race the car. I am sure that as the motor breaks in further and my skill sin the car improve the cars performance will improve.

Anyhow, thats just my $0.02. Sorry if this post is too long or everyone has seen this before.


-Jarrod
 

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originally posted by TAMUz06:
"These rings like to be broken in on organic oil, the Mobil 1 is too thin for them to seat properly. "

I'm no expert on this subject but would like to know more and I can echo what I've heard...the rings are "rolled" into the pistons at the factory so there is no need for ring break-in for proper seating...or some quote such as that. Is that a true statement?

FWIW, I chose to do the easy break-in method and am not dissatisfied with the performance of my Z06 to date.

02BlueZ06
 

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I can only vouch for myself on a 2001 Z06 break in. However, there are plenty of folks that broke them in like they stole them. It might be a coincidence that a high % number of Z06 engines have experienced "excessive" oil consumption. It is probably so high that the General doesnt want to publish the real numbers and %'s.

I broke mine in very slowly keeping the revs down with a slight engine load (slightly higher gear), for the first 500 miles. Also I continued that till my first non scheduled oil change at app 1600 miles. I am pushing 19,000 miles and might need a quart every 5000 or so miles( total 3 quarts). I do try and get as close to 15,000 miles as is practical between changes now.
 

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Jarrod,

Very good post...and very good points.

The distinction I draw is between the theoretical and the practical. I just go off what I see...and I've seen too many oiling issues with cars which have broken in on synthetic....and too many who have NOT experienced any oiling issues and making more power after a "hard" break in throughout their life when conventional is used. Rest assured, synthetic WILL go in my motor...just not right now...and Mobil 1 WILL be the first synthetic I try out, followed by Valvoline Synpower, then by Royal Purple, if I see fit. If the Mobil 1 works good for me, then I'll keep it. :)

Very good post, very good...thanks for the insight!
 
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