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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How much can you safely lower a Z with the stock bolts???

I assume with another(longer) set of blots it can go lower. How low can you go until hitting speed bumps or issues like this. I would like to lower at the same time i upgrade the front brakes.... I assume after lowering, full 4 wheel alignment or re- alignment is need?

Please chime in..
 

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I lowered mine last week on the stock bolts and got 7/8ths in. drop. I done the 5 turns @ each wheel method. I measured after 2 days, it may have settled a bit more since then. I will get an alignment within 1K mi. So far, the speedbumps i've encountered havnt been a problem. I do have to take more angle going into my driveway now.
 

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jz06man said:
How much can you safely lower a Z with the stock bolts???

I assume with another(longer) set of blots it can go lower. How low can you go until hitting speed bumps or issues like this. I would like to lower at the same time i upgrade the front brakes.... I assume after lowering, full 4 wheel alignment or re- alignment is need?

Please chime in..

It seems you can go lower with longer bolts but I have been told the stock shocks start to bottom out affecting ride and handling. Lots of guys have lowered cars maybe they could shed some light on this as I would like to go lower than stock myself.

DROID
 

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15MN is the average with stock bolts and no cutting. :z:

Yes alignment is needed. Drive it for 100 miles or so to let everything settle.
.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It L Go- Did you mean 15mm- 1/2 inch? I've told 1 inch was the numbers with stock bolts...
So you should'nt lower and align at the same time?
 

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jz06man said:
It L Go- Did you mean 15mm- 1/2 inch? I've told 1 inch was the numbers with stock bolts...
So you should'nt lower and align at the same time?
The amount varies from 1/2 to 3/4 but not much more.
Mine went down a shade over 1/2 inch.

IMO it's best to drive the car for 100 miles or so to let everything settle in. Some folks report that after adjusting the bolts the Maximum amount, it didn't look much lower. Then after driving it for some miles went down more.

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I got over 3/4" lowering mine on the stock bolts which was enough for me. It is easy to lower these cars and I suggest you try lowering it to the max on the stock bolts and drive around on it for a week or so and decide if you want to go lower. If not, then have it aligned at that point.

As a note, you can lower the rear more than the front, which isn't really a good idea at high speed. As a rule of thumb, I suggest you try to keep about 1/2" of "rake" in the car to keep the rear higher. I measure ground to the side frame rail behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels. The rear measurement should be about 1/2" higher. I lowered my fronts to the max without cutting bushings and lowered the rear appropriately and had about 3 threads remaining on the stock rear lowering bolts.

As a note, lowering the car will change camber and toe which is why I suggest an alignment afterwards.
 

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Subdriver said:
I got over 3/4" lowering mine on the stock bolts which was enough for me. It is easy to lower these cars and I suggest you try lowering it to the max on the stock bolts and drive around on it for a week or so and decide if you want to go lower. If not, then have it aligned at that point.

As a note, you can lower the rear more than the front, which isn't really a good idea at high speed. As a rule of thumb, I suggest you try to keep about 1/2" of "rake" in the car to keep the rear higher. I measure ground to the side frame rail behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels. The rear measurement should be about 1/2" higher. I lowered my fronts to the max without cutting bushings and lowered the rear appropriately and had about 3 threads remaining on the stock rear lowering bolts.

As a note, lowering the car will change camber and toe which is why I suggest an alignment afterwards.

:yeadog: :yeadog: :thumb:
 

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Subdriver said:
I got over 3/4" lowering mine on the stock bolts which was enough for me. It is easy to lower these cars and I suggest you try lowering it to the max on the stock bolts and drive around on it for a week or so and decide if you want to go lower. If not, then have it aligned at that point.

As a note, you can lower the rear more than the front, which isn't really a good idea at high speed. As a rule of thumb, I suggest you try to keep about 1/2" of "rake" in the car to keep the rear higher. I measure ground to the side frame rail behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels. The rear measurement should be about 1/2" higher. I lowered my fronts to the max without cutting bushings and lowered the rear appropriately and had about 3 threads remaining on the stock rear lowering bolts.



As a note, lowering the car will change camber and toe which is why I suggest an alignment afterwards.

How many threads did you back off the nuts on the front and back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok, I'll get it done when i do the Wilwood front Big Brake. I've got to think that lowering 1/2 inch or 3/4 would make a difference in handling, specially at high speed.
 

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Johnnyboy said:
How many threads did you back off the nuts on the front and back.
On mine, the fronts as far as they would go, the backs I left 3 threads showing. :cheers:

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
IT L Go,
With this set-up
"On mine, the fronts as far as they would go, the backs I left 3 threads showing"

I assume you still have a nice rake in the car??
 

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jz06man said:
IT L Go,
With this set-up
"On mine, the fronts as far as they would go, the backs I left 3 threads showing"

I assume you still have a nice rake in the car??
Same rake as the factory, IMO if you go lower it starts to effect the ride. :z:

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Very good,
Thanks
 
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