I have a 2002 z06 that I purchased in the beginning of August. It's got 57k on it which is about 2k more than when I bought it. I posted earlier about it locking out 5th/6th gate sometimes and having troubles getting into first. The 5th/6th locking out issue appears to have disappeared but there is still some issues getting into first without going into second before. Just with the last two days there seems to be grinding shifting 1-2, 2-3, 3-4. When I first got the car I missed probably twice shifting into second and grinded that gear and once going into third other than that I haven't really shifted it hard. I'm hoping this isn't major but I'm fearing that the synchros are going and that a costly repair is in the future. Any thoughts? Thank you ahead of time.
Gears Grinding
Gobblesrf
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Um.... push the clutch in before you put it into gear.
not realy any adjustment on a Hyd clutch Big truck have an adjustment because its mechanical.
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733 Posts
If I read this post literally, you are trying to shift BEFORE you depress the clutch?
Explain.
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haha definately should learn how to talk before I start trying to fix my car, but I meant 1)press the clutch, 2)shift to 2nd gear, causing the grinding. All the other gears work fine and 2nd works sometimes, mainly at lower takeoff speeds. I've used double clutching a few times and its kind of hit or miss when that works.
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Go back & review the whole thread, read my post #13, do all that stuff, it's not very hard to DIY or with a friend. It MAY help enough so you can get by for a while.
It may also be that the previous owner(s) toasted 2nd gear syncros with bad shift(s).
But do all that easy & cheap & quick stuff first.
It may also be that the previous owner(s) toasted 2nd gear syncros with bad shift(s).
But do all that easy & cheap & quick stuff first.
I apologize for the slow response, I've recently moved and haven't gotten the internet hooked up at my place yet. I haven't had a chance to make any changes to the car or change the clutch fluid again. I did it three times the first day and it needs it again but the weather has been shitty and I've been busy, both culminating in no work being done. My dad drove the car this past weekend and confirmed that I'm not crazy, he was getting some grinding as well. I'm hoping this weekend I will get a chance to change the fluid again and re-install the factory shifter to see if it's an alignment problem. I think I'm going to call the chevy dealer that just serviced the transmission since I didn't notice any grinding before they did that and see if they have any opinions. From what it sounds like though, the synchros are probably the issue. I sure hope not but I want to first eliminate the cheap stuff. Another thing to note, my shifter doesn't have a very strong centering action to it, not sure if that's normal or not. Thanks
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733 Posts
In a proper working stock shifter there is a strong centering effect.
It centers on the 2/4 of course.
There is a mod called anti venom that lessens the effort to move the shifter from neutral position to any of the gears.
Some like it, personally I never saw the point.
Could be previous owner did something along those lines & messed it up?
Good luck.
It centers on the 2/4 of course.
There is a mod called anti venom that lessens the effort to move the shifter from neutral position to any of the gears.
Some like it, personally I never saw the point.
Could be previous owner did something along those lines & messed it up?
Good luck.
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208 Posts
I highly recommend you put back the stock shifter before going to the dealership. My experience when I took my Z to the dealership about the 2nd-gear grind was that they immediately started to point the finger towards the Hurst short-throw shifter that I installed. Fortunately for me, the tranny fluid change to synthetic took care of that problem.
I realize this post is kinda old and dated but I have an update on the grinding issues that I've had. This past summer I finally got the chance to pull apart the console and get at the shifter. I decided to start by loosening all the bolts and then tightening them all back to spec. This illuminated one of the bolts being stripped and not capable of being torqued to 22 lbs. but I was able to get about 16 lbs. and decided to see what happened. After doing this, the shifter had normal centering force finally and did have much more pronounced gates plus I could finally get it into first without going into second then up (most of the time). Although it was much improved, there was still a grind going into some of the gears. I then tried lining the shifter up as best I could (without getting the alignment pin all the way down) and again, improved but still some grind. Today I was able to get the alignment pin down and tried lining it up as best I could. It was improved, but still catches on something going up in some of the gears and not all of the time. It's very weird that coming down 5-4-3 is usually better than going up. Any idea? I'm guessing that I'll probably have to try installing the original shifter back in or maybe the hurst that I also have but I'm not sure if this is a shifter problem. Thanks for your help.
From my personal experience....its just a matter of time. However, start cheap first, like you have done...shifter alignment...fluid change....if it keeps happening, its time to yank the trans.
This can be done on jacks in your garage if you are mechanically inclined. I have done it twice, took about 6-7 hours to get it out, and 8 to put the new trans in.
Also, when the time comes....and this is just my personal opinion, get a good trans shop to rebuild the entire trans....meaning do NOT let a dealer shop do it and dont "just" replace a worn synchro or two...guaranteed the worn synchros caused other parts to wear also.
I had Rockland Standard Gear do mine after the RPM Stage 5 I paid good money for started crapping the bed and they would not stand behind their product.
This can be done on jacks in your garage if you are mechanically inclined. I have done it twice, took about 6-7 hours to get it out, and 8 to put the new trans in.
Also, when the time comes....and this is just my personal opinion, get a good trans shop to rebuild the entire trans....meaning do NOT let a dealer shop do it and dont "just" replace a worn synchro or two...guaranteed the worn synchros caused other parts to wear also.
I had Rockland Standard Gear do mine after the RPM Stage 5 I paid good money for started crapping the bed and they would not stand behind their product.
Yeah, that's the approach I'm taking at the moment try to get each thing right and work my way to each component. I might as well elaborate on the shifting to better describe it, the "catch" that I'm feeling doesn't really matter whether I'm moving or not. The (luckily) now occasional trouble getting into first obviously happens when stopped. I can feel the "nick" going into 4th and 3rd with the car stopped and moving. After carefully trying to align the shifter yesterday, there definitely seems to an improvement (read: more normal shifts) and the shifting does get better as the tranny gets warmer. Still trying to figure what could be causing the problem but I have 2 more shifters that I'll end up trying in the coming weeks as I get around to swapping them in. If you don't mind my asking how much would a full transmission fix run me? My thoughts are if I'm going to tear into the transmission I'd want to spend the money and have it made to "not" break.
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39 Posts
I've had grinding problems on a two previous transmissions due to high RPM shifts from 2 to 3. The grinding just got worse over time. Once the tranny was apart, all the gears were worn down. I would start saving to rebuild the transmission with upgraded parts.
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