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Thunder Racing 227/224 cam- results

8.5K views 16 replies 10 participants last post by  Speedracer  
#1 · (Edited)
Yesterday I had Thunder Racing install a cam in the Z. Dyno tuning was accomplished this morning.
Specs are: 227/224 .569/.563 114 LSA

After doing quite a bit of homework on the subject, I decided on this cam over the larger 230/226 type cams for two reasons:
1. With a 114 LSA, it will be smoother at idle and have better low RPM drivability.
2. With less lift and duration, there's less of a chance of a valve meeting a piston, and less wear and tear on the valvetrain.

The baseline dyno before the cam was 373rwhp/365rwtq with a Halltech T-1, Shaner S2 TB, FLP headers (offroad pipes), and Borla Stingers. The fuel and timing tables in the PCM were still stock at that time.

Thunder Racing installed an ASP pulley during the cam swap, since the pulley had to come off anyhow. The whole job took them about 8 hours start to finish.

This morning we straped the car on the dyno, and got SAE 410rwhp/380rwtq. This was with STOCK tuning!! The wideband O2 showed that it was too lean in the low to mid-range, and rich up top.

After tuning with LS1 edit, they re-dynoed, and it pulled SAE 423rwhp/393rwtq with stock heads!! :eek: My dynos beat two other C5's that dynoed today with heads and cam, across the entire RPM band, by a considerable margin (~20rwhp). The maximum power gain was roughly 50rwhp at 6500 RPM over the stock cam and pulley. :eek: :cool:

There were no gains to be had by tweaking the timing- the stock timing is pretty much dead-on. All the tuning gains came from tweaking the fuel/air ratio. :)

The drivabiity on the cam is great- I'm very pleased and pleasantly surprised with how well it drives. I had a 98 TA with a 218/224 cam, and this cam drives considerably better. The idle is pretty lumpy- it's not what I'd call a stealthy profile, but its not overly choppy like the 112LSA cams I've heard. I get a little RPM surging below 1000RPM in gear, when I start the car on a hot engine, but it only lasts for a few seconds before it smooths out.
The pull at WOT is awesome. I gained so much mid-range torque that the pull is quite a bit smoother/more linear than stock, and it pulls HARD in every gear. On the way home, on a deserted highway, I hit a speed somewhere slightly North of 170MPH and the acceleration wasn't showing any sign of letting up. It was pretty unreal.

I would definetly recommend this cam to anyone. I'd also like to say that Thunder Racing treated me GREAT. They definetly know what customer service is all about. If anyone is thinking about doing a cam, and you think you might be interested in the cam I went with, give Thunder a call and they'll take care of you. I can't say enough good things about my experience with them.

Hopefully I'll get her to the track soon! With this cold air, I'm expecting some really good trap speeds! :cheers:

(BTW- for anyone that was wondering, the steering rack does need to be removed to get the crank pulley off, and the entire rack comes on and off in one piece realatively easily)

Edit: Here are the dynographs from 2 consecutive pulls.
Image

Image

:cheers:
 
#2 ·
Whoo-hoo!! Awesome, Cameron. Thanks for sharing the results and going into some good detail. I, for one, really appreciate an indepth report like this one.

Which valvesprings did the shop install?

I think your car would have been ~385+rwhp with the previous set-up AND proper tuning, but even if my guess is right...you picked up ~40rwhp with a cam and pulley swap. Incredible!
 
#4 ·
WA 2 FST said:
Whoo-hoo!! Awesome, Cameron. Thanks for sharing the results and going into some good detail. I, for one, really appreciate an indepth report like this one.

Which valvesprings did the shop install?

I think your car would have been ~385+rwhp with the previous set-up AND proper tuning, but even if my guess is right...you picked up ~40rwhp with a cam and pulley swap. Incredible!
We went with the Comp 26918's and stock retainers. I agree that I would have pulled 385 or better with tuning. The car was runing pig rich with the headers and offroad pipes.
 
#5 ·
ZO6LS6 said:
Zo,
really sweet #'s, congrats......
I don't know if I could live with the surge though......
What about the Emissions nazi's??
Think she'll pass muster?
I wouldn't bet money on passing emissions in a state like CA, but there are a couple cars with the Thunder 224/224 cam that have passed in CA, and my cam isn't radically different from that one, so passing is a possibility, as long as the cats are on (obviously).

Fortunately, Louisiana doesn't check emissions. They just take a look to make sure the proper equipment is installed.
 
#6 ·
Congrats Nice numbers :cheers:
 
#12 ·
Awesome numbers:cheers:

Any codes or idle issues, stalling?
 
#13 ·
jw02 said:
Awesome numbers:cheers:

Any codes or idle issues, stalling?
It threw DTC P0300 soon after starting up. That's the random misfire code. Larger than stock camshafts cause vibrations that the PCM mistakenly interprets as misfires. Invariablly, running autotap on the individual cylinders will proove this by showing normal firing on all cylinders. Therefore, most folks who do a larger cam like this have that code deleted from the PCM, so as not to have the check engine light coming on all the time. That's what I did. If anyone asks, "If that code is deleted, how will you know when it really is misfiring?", my answer is that the DTC's have some redundancy built in, and other related codes will be thrown if that happens, which would prompt me to do further diagnostics. As soon as you do a larger cam, P0300 is made pretty irrevelant. Whether the code is turned on or not, you have no way of knowing if the conditions that set that code are present. That's just one of the tradeoffs you make when you go the route that I did in order to make power. Anything you do to increase power has tradeoffs involved. :)

Idle is great 90% of the time. Sometimes at idle, right after I start up on a warm/hot motor, it surges a little in gear, particularly when I'm moving the steering wheel (again, common for larger cams). It has stalled out on me a couple times. Normally the surging only lasts a few seconds and goes away, and idles normally afterwards. When it does surge, if it threatens to stall, you can goose the gas to keep it running, and that will normally kill the surge as well.

Don't get me wrong though- this isn't a constant problem, only an intermitent one. Next time I go to Thunder, we're going to work on tuning the idle a little. I think with some adjustments to the AFR at idle, we can reduce the surging to the point that its not very noticible.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Speedracer said:
How much cost are we talking here?
Cam+springs+hardened pushrods+all required gaskets=$699
ASP underdrive pulley and belts=$220 (optional, but good idea since the stock pulley has to come off anyhow)
Total Parts=~$920+shipping

To have it installed for you usually runs about $800. Its a big job.
Dyno tuning runs $350-$550 depending on where you go. Thunder Racing chages $350... The tuning is optional on our cars, but is a good idea to get the most power and smoothest operation.

So you can basically figure around $2K for everything, including parts, labor, and tuning.
 
#16 ·
Dude,

Congratulation on your numbers. And thanks for the info on DTC P0300 - I having a "big" cam put in very soon and I'm sure that will come in handy.